engine swapping

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marlinh
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My tercel:: 'Everett' Blue 87 4WD Wagon (Rocky 86, recently retired)
Location: Kootenays

Re: engine swapping

Post by marlinh »

The only reason I would worry about the 100 miles is if there is a LOT of crap being loosened off. I have seen some pretty gummed up engines in my day and that product would have clogged oil passages with the sludge it would create.

Definitely monitor the condition of the oil and be prepared to change the oil early if it looks like it needs it. I would hate for you to be stranded somewhere on your way home. Or add the stuff, irowiki, when you are closer to home.
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irowiki
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Re: engine swapping

Post by irowiki »

Yeah I'm thinking I'll just wait til I'm home to do it, the last thing I need is to be broken down somewhere remote!
Former Tercel Enthusiast (not a practical family car anymore but they still have a place in my heart)

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87 Corolla FX16, 105k
94 Jamboree RV (Ford E-350), 90k
95 Camry Wagon, 197k
05 Avalon, 199k
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marlinh
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My tercel:: 'Everett' Blue 87 4WD Wagon (Rocky 86, recently retired)
Location: Kootenays

Re: engine swapping

Post by marlinh »

I would be more concerned with the sludge that suddenly comes free than the oil thinning. Just my thoughts.
Jarf
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My tercel:: Currently without
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Re: engine swapping

Post by Jarf »

I am also a firm believer in Seafoam products.
By the way, the Deep creep is one of the best penetrating oils I have found to date.
I have never seen that website info either but have always followed the instructions on the can.
I think the "time" restriction on the pre-service is all about CYA as previously stated.
I find it to me a "mild" product in that it tends to NOT destroy things like valve seals (which many of the other chemicals on the market do with ease, btdt)
I have actually gotten into the habit of adding it to the fuel tank (see can for instructions) more often than the crankcase.
Mixes with the fuel and cleans as you drive, it will clean any place that the fuel mixture goes and is a lot safer in my mind than introducing it through the booster.
Most of the vacuum ports are only going to access part of the intake system, sometimes only one runner.
I add the prescribed amount to the crankcase (once or twice/year) but never saw that mileage restriction and have had it in some of my engines for as long as 10K with no ill effects.

Also works as a fuel stabilizer, I now use it in every engine I own and the results have been nothing short of miraculous.
(I used to use "fuel stabilizer" but it is more expensive and my history has proven it doesn't seem to work as well??)

As a side note, When we bought our sailboat it was a bugger to get started, would crank forever then sputter and slowly come to life.
I did a flush on the oil and started using it in the fuel as stabilizer. Things immediately improved.
Last year we did not launch so this spring I expected the worst but it fired up on the first try, cranked for maybe 3 secs.
Couldn't believe the difference.
I'm sold.

As to the sludge factor, haven't experienced any issues that way either.
Wife's Rav4 was bought with 100K on the clock, dealer only had one service on file (48km) and said that the customer had the local place do all the oil service.
(the car had been prepped for sale, all fluids replaced, it was impossible to assess reality at that point).
First oil change I did I noticed that the oil cap is now made solid (no recess on the underside of the cap) as I wiped it off, I realized there was a little grit, so I cleaned and scraped and cleaned and scrapped, turns out the oil cap is just like the turtle in that it is hollow up to the top of the cap so I had about 4oz of solid carbon baked into the cap.
That's when I realized why there was no service history available.
I put a full can into the crankcase and drive it about for one day then changed it again.
The oil that came out was BLACK, looked like it had 20K on it but it was all liquid, no chunks or anything that would spell disaster.
100k later the oil stays clean between oil changes now, but it took several changes (with SF each time) to get there.
Last edited by Jarf on Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
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irowiki
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Re: engine swapping

Post by irowiki »

The new 4 cycle mower that replaced it (cheapest one available) was very "sputtery" until I added some to it's gas too, now it runs really nice.
Oh, awesome! The 20 year old lawnmower I inherited from my dad just started running rough, so I will give this a try!
Former Tercel Enthusiast (not a practical family car anymore but they still have a place in my heart)

Site administrator, if something is broken, PM me!

87 Corolla FX16, 105k
94 Jamboree RV (Ford E-350), 90k
95 Camry Wagon, 197k
05 Avalon, 199k
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marlinh
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Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:15 am
My tercel:: 'Everett' Blue 87 4WD Wagon (Rocky 86, recently retired)
Location: Kootenays

Re: engine swapping

Post by marlinh »

Wow, great info Jarf. I do use fuel stabilizer but I will shift to Seafoam now. It is definitely more affordable. About 15 years ago I replaced an engine on a 3 year old van that had about 30,000 km on the clock. It had never had the oil changed. When the valve cover was removed the sludge buildup on the head was incredible. There were actual grooves cut into the sludge for all the moving parts. Needless to say the engine was toast. Some people don't realize that preventative maintenance and regular service saves them a lot of money in the long run.
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