WEBER 32/36 Swap...TURTCEL

[TURTCEL]

So I have finally had it with the stock carb set up on my Terc. I am moving to Washington State again and will not need to go through emissions due to the age of my vehicle.

I have been battling my stock carb set up from day one. I have confirmed there are no vacuum leaks and all my components have been tested and confirmed to be good. I am wanting to swap over to a WEBER carb now. I know there are many write ups on this topic but I was hoping that a member here could direct me to the exact WEBER carb kit number that I should buy and if there would be anything else I should order at the same time of the swap. I will be sticking with my electric choke.

Thanks to any info that might get me and my ride back on the road in a healthy way.

Peace

[TURTCEL]

I just got off the phone with WEBER Carbs direct and they told me they do not offer a carb for this application. I know many members have done this swap. Do I need to build my own adapter or throttle linkage to make it work? What is the deal with them saying nothing will work for our Tercs?

There is also a fuel pressure regulator that is recommended...any thoughts?

Peace

[dlb]

welcome back, turtcel. been a while.

the weber you want is the 32/36 DGEV and the adapter kit is K740, or that's the # of the adapter kit i got through jtspeed.com 4 years ago.

i followed archinstl's instructions and got the holley regulator and various plumbing components. i think it's a good idea since the stock tercel fuel pump puts out something like 7 psi and the weber carb is designed for 2.5-3 psi.

however, installing a weber is no guarantee that your carb problems will be over. i had a few minor problems with mine even in the two years i ran it, and at least for the stock carb there is the FSM to help you trouble shoot or tear it down. there is very little support for the weber, which i found frustrating. plus it tends to ice up a bit in the first few minutes of winter driving. that's not a big issue but it really annoyed me. to each their own though.

[Petros]

the stock carb and all of the emissions systems is actually very reliable and has good drivablity. Parts do wear out and some times the carb is not rebuildable because of internal wear, but that is less common. It is best to properly diagnose the problem first before you try and fix it by replacing the carb, you may do this and still have your problem. I have seen weak coils in the distrutor act like a fuel starvation problem, spent a lot of time looking for a vac leak or insufficient fuel supply at low rpms, turned out to be a junk remanufactured distributor that was not considered because it was "new".

You may indeed need a new carb, but it is best to verify that before you spend the money and hassles of sorting out a new carb that was not really designed for this engine (but can be made to work well with enough persistence, but sometimes no less than sorting out the stock carb).

One of my mantras, that I even have to remindmyself sometimes is: always diagnose the problem BEFORE you try and fix it!

[ARCHINSTL]

My setup: https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... 319#p33319
Also - https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ilit=weber
I couldn't be happier with the Weber since I switched five years ago.
Tom M.

[TURTCEL]

Thanks to all the replies gentlemen. It is good to be back in the forum again...glad that all the great advice is still here from the best Tercers around.

I am headed to Petros' place tomorrow morn to have a look at the carb issue? or whatever it is.

***Just a note on the dizzy comment...I do have a reman dizzy in TURTCEL from a parts store. It was all I had at the time...except for my stock dizzy that I rebuilt. My stock dizzy has just a little shaft play (prob normal for the age) so it sits in my storage in Nor Cal till I can get it back.

Hopefully we can come up with a quick and easy diagnosis/fix tomorrow. I will keep everyone posted on my findings.

Peace

[Petros]

update. We found the cause of a few of the annoying drivablity issues and corrected them. The car runs great, strong and powerful, easy start up, etc. In fact I would not change to the weber carb, it runs well.

except for one annoying minor issue. when holding steady speed at hwy speeds the engine wants to surge slightly. It happens when holding a steady speed and you slightly let off the throttle, it slows more suddenly than the throttle input should indicated. IT is a mild annoyance, I have also experienced this before in another car but I can not remember how I fixed it. it is like the fuel cut-off solenoid is cutting out the fuel too early, or like the throttle response is sticking or overshooting.

Anyone have this and remember what the fix is? I can not recalled what fixed this condition, but it was not a difficult fix. lubricating the throttle linkage and cable perhaps?

[ARCHINSTL]

When in neutral, is the surging from 1800 to 22/2300 RPM and continually cycling between those two points? I was only able to solve it by plugging one or more (I've forgotten) lines from the EBCV. See the looooong thread https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1372
This cycling range seemed to be peculiar to my car, as I recall.
Tom M.

[Petros]

Turtcel had run all the FSM tests on the EBCV and the two related solonoids, found one out of tolerance and had replaced it. It still could be that, but just plugging a line would be an easy test.

[TURTCEL]

When in neutral, is the surging from 1800 to 22/2300 RPM and continually cycling between those two points? I was only able to solve it by plugging one or more (I've forgotten) lines from the EBCV. See the looooong thread https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1372
This cycling range seemed to be peculiar to my car, as I recall.
Tom M.

Yes to that is the exact RPM range that my car is having issues between. No matter if I am accelerating or decelerating the issue is there. More so on deceleration though. Very jerky when the RPM's are lowering...almost like a bucking bronco. The car will not idle worth a darn either. Acts like a vacuum leak.

I was up at Petros' place last week to see what we could figure out but even with a carb swap and a relay box change test the issues remained. ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

I will be doing some more diagnostic research this weekend. Hopefully something will come of it. Thanks for all the help from everyone. I will keep you posted.

Peace

[TURTCEL]

So here is what I have come up with on my runability issue. When I run the car up to 2000+ RPMs the car will hesitate and drop RPMs to around 1800. I have checked and replaced all components that tested bad with good working ones.

Today I swapped my carb back on to my car after borrowing one of Petros' for diagnostic purposes. I then reviewed Tom's posting on the fuel cut off solenoid issues that he had and ran a couple of my own tests. What I found was that my fuel lean solenoid that mounts to the passenger fender well bracket was causing the hesitation issue. I plugged the vacuum port on the vacuum rail and at the switch. When I ran the RPMs back up to above 2000 the hesitation and cut out stopped.

I found an '86 SR5 in a pick and pull yard today and grabbed the solenoid and emission control box from under above the glove box...figuring one of these would fix my problem. But with no luck they did not. I replugged the vacuum port on the carb and the swicth as well. The hesitation is gone but now the car runs just a smidge richer than stock when decelerating...no big deal to me. I am wondering what could be the cause of this issue still. A broken wire possibly? How would I check to see if the switch is getting power? Thanks again to all for the advice on this one.

I am still thinking a WEBER is gonna be in my near future though. This emissions issues are a real pain.

Peace