1991 Corolla All Trac

[irowiki]

http://farmington.craigslist.org/cto/3912027907.html

Daughter blew the motor

How are the automatics on these? Are they 3 or 4 speed (overdrive?)

I have a 1991 Toyota Corolla AllTrac DX that is in GREAT CONDITION body and interior wise- especially for a 22 year old car. It is an Automatic with blue interior and of course 4wd and also a new stereo. The new seats and stereo and also a Yakima rack are not pictured here! Bought this for my daughter about a year ago and showed her how to check the important things to keep it running and she REALLY kept it looking good and waxed and new stereo installed but never checked the engine oil after numerous times of reminding so- NOW IT NEEDS A MOTOR!! These are pretty rare I found out when I bought it and after about 180,000 original miles of having a good life all it took was about 6 months with my 19 year old daughter and so now this great older car now needs a new motor. I found a few used motors on EBAY and other online sources and they run about $500 and up. I have no interest in getting this running now due to having enough cars already- so if you are interested in more info. about this little AllTrac give me a call at 970 259 3494. The asking price is $900 or MAKE A FAIR OFFER! Thanks for reading.

[dlb]

my friend has an automatic all trac, i actually sold it to him. i bought it to try an all trac out but i learned i didn't like automatics then. it was really smooth but i found it boring and lacking power. my friend loves it though, and is currently averaging 27 mpg with mixed driving. not sure how many gears the autos have though.

funny ad. poor guy sounds a little annoyed, haha.

[Petros]

looks decent, engines are easy to find since it is common to all Corollas, could be a great buy at $600-700. Engine swap is a major job, FSM says to pull engine and trans togthere, very large and heavy with the AWD trans (it has the center diff), though I managed to pull just the trans on the one I had without pulling the engine. Well worth it if you like auto trans (my wife would like one!), Toyota Auto trans are very reliable and generally last a long time, so replacing or rebuilding the engine would likely give this car another $150k to 200k low maintenance miles. This engine has over 40 more hp than the Tercel 3ac engine, so the auto trans is not as bad as an auto trans Tercel with the 3ac. It is a very good engine design with EFI and 16-valves, as well as being very reliable.

[dlb]

peter, how did you get the trans out of your CAT at home? did you have the entire car up on stands or just the front end? it seems like it would need to be up really high to have enough clearance to get the trans out. i'm curious because i anticipate the day i have to do the clutch on mine. i think i will rebuild the trans while i have it out then since most of the synchros are shot. this is years off but i like to plan ahead.

[Petros]

you have to jack the front as high as you can safely set it on jack stands, and make a saw horse like frame to hold the engine up since it is supported by the trans and cross member. the frame rests on the fenders and the rear of the engine is suspended from the frame. than you have to remove the fore and aft cross members (that also has the two of the 4 engine mounts), unbolt the trans (not easy to reach the bolts under the intake manifold, I used a long extensions and u-joint on the socket), remove the cv axles and the linage and wire bundle connectors, and than you are ready. You need to lower the rear of the engine some to get some clearnace to remove the trans from the back of the engine. I removed the left front strut and brake to get it out of the way, and put a jack under the trans to support the weight. You than wiggled it out about 3/4" and than rotated it clockwise about 45 degrees to get the center diff housing (one piece with the trans housing) to clear the rear engine block flange. from there you wiggle it out further, allowing it do drop as you pull it out so you can clear the car subframe. If it was not so heavy it would not be so bad, it helps to have a second set of hand under it as you jockey it around to get it out. Same is true to get it back in, angle it upward and slide it most of the way home (supporting the weight of it the whole time), and than clock the diff counter clock wise as you push it the rest of the way in.

the problem is the center diff that has the drive shaft that goes to the rear axle will not allow you pull the trans straight out, so you pull it as far as you can go, and than rotate it so the diff clears the engine and than pull it the rest of the way.

As much a PIA it is to do this, it is still easier than pulling the engine and trans as a unit as the FSM recommends.