Tuff Tercel Truck

[Rokkatansky]

If this is the AC actuator i could not find it on diagrams in your post.
Will this cause high idle?
Where does the missing hose go to?
It's a quandary.

[dlb]

rokkatansky, the AC actuator is shown in the second pic of the second link tom posted. here's the pic.

http://www.tercel4wd.com/download/file. ... &mode=view

it's in the bottom left corner. keep in mind that this is a vacuum diagram for a US federal emissions terc and yours is probably similar but not identical. regardless, i imagine that the L port of your TVSV probably still directs vacuum to the choke breaker, vacuum switch B, and the AC actuator. if you do not have a vac switch B, the hose probably goes directly to the VSV and then to the actuator.

when it is connected, the AC actuator kicks up the idle a few hundred RPM to accommodate the extra drag of the AC system. since yours is not connected though, that's not what is causing your high idle. like i mentioned before, the high idle is probably caused by one of these hoses being disconnected and being a vac leak.

[Rokkatansky]

Thanks for the info dlb.
The chart helps a lot, since my under bonnet chart has faded.
While searching vacuum pipes, i found this one missing (Pictured running parallel to head) it leads to the distributor (Pictured in red on the chart) yet I can't find where it goes.

IMG_0792.JPG

Maybe this is my problem?

[dlb]

rokkatansky, trace the pipe and its other hoses and tell us what else it is connected to. then we will be able to better figure out where it should go. that is definitely a vacuum leak though. plug it with a rubber cap and connect the hose to your AC actuator and see if that brings your idle down.

[Rokkatansky]

Found the hoses and re-connected them it now idles.
Runs well. pings a bit at low revs.
Heating looks good stays below the middle line.
Just needs a tunes up, I have no timing light, is there an alternative way to tune distributor.
BTW:
That pipe I took photo of as I said is connected to the distributor.
Can someone send me a picture of the VSV to AC i can't find anything that resembles this device?

P.S while I just drove the Terc around the block a few times to test, I was already envisaging the next road trip.

[Rokkatansky]

Car drives nice, pulls stronger.
Only problem is, the problem I had before with the fluctuating temp gauge.
Drove the Terc on the freeway ran nicely,I noticed the gauge before the halfway mark fluctuate just over, then drop again, then start all over it's the same problem as prior but now in a lower temp range.

??????


Could it be a dodgy thermostat?
I only bought the last one 2 months ago.

[dlb]

weird. since you recently replaced the thermostat, i would look at the radiator and rad cap. rad caps are cheap and easy so i would do that first. then i would check the rad. it sounds like it might be clogged. i can't remember, did you ever replace it?

to check the rad, let the engine warm up, then unplug the fan at the bottom of the rad. this will cause the fan to run constantly. check the temp of both rad hoses. normally, the top one will be hot and the bottom one will be just warm since the coolant is passing through the rad and being cooled by the rad fan. however, if the rad is clogged it will slow coolant passage through the rad and the lower rad hose will be cool. it's not a great test but there aren't a lot of great ways to test for a clogged rad. the only other way i know of is to drain the coolant, disconnect the lower rad hose, take off the cap and put a hose in, and see how fast it drains. if it trickles out, it's obviously plugged. neither method is great since it is easy to tell if the rad is REALLY plugged but it's not very clear if it's just marginally plugged.

it seems less likely but the thermostat you put in could also be bad. you can remove it and put it in boiling water to test it. it should open up at the temperature stamped on it, easy as that. when you installed it, did you make sure the jiggle valve (the loose rivet) was at the top? if not, it could cause an air lock in the system, which could also manifest in the symptoms you've been experiencing.

good luck.

[ARCHINSTL]

dlb mentioned replacing the radiator cap - I'd look at that first, as a few years ago I, too, was experiencing weird ups and downs on the temp gauge, even after replacing the t-stat. A new cap cured it.
Tom M.

[irowiki]

Running the heater full blast is another good way to test for a clogged rad, if the rad is clogged the heater should kick the temp down towards normal.

[Rokkatansky]

Thanks all.

i never suspected radiator as far as i can see the radiator is a new or near to it. Contacted the previous to the previous owner and he said he had a new rad put in. Thermo upside down? i'll check this, Is towards engine up or down?
Rad cap? Something that passed me, I always thought that they only needed changing if water came out, i'll look into that, thats interesting.
At the moment I have some cleaner in the engine to clean all the gunk that was in there when I did the head gasket, It looked pretty dirty.
Letting it work into engine for longer than the 10 minutes prescribed by the back of container.
Get back to it and see the outcome....

[dlb]

even a new radiator can be killed quick if anything other than de-ionized water is mixed with the coolant. the minerals in untreated tap water can cause deposits in the rad. forum member xirdneh experienced this first hand not too long ago.moral of the story: always spend the extra $3 on that seemingly ridiculous job of de-ionized water.

the thermostat will only fit in the engine one way, as far as direction goes. but there is a small rivet in the flat, outer portion of the thermostat that acts a valve. you can clearly see it in this pic.



when installed, the thermostat must be positioned so that the rivet is as high as it can be. some thermostats don't have them, in which case it's a non-issue. if you're not sure which way you put yours in, i would remove it to check, and test the thermostat in boiling water like i mentioned since it's out.

i would still try the rad cap first though.

[Rokkatansky]

Never would I have thought the radiator cap.
When I took the old cap off the spring was shorter and it was full of gunk and rusty.
On inspection next to new cap; The new cap had longer spring.
Went on the freeway and the temp stayed under line, never swayed.
So far so good.
Just need a tune up.
Going for road trip soon if it plays up then i'll completely know, but for now, it's good.

If anyone has this problem with temp, check all components i.e; Thermostat, hoses, cleanliness of water and the easiest to check is the radiator cap.
Thanks Club Tercel.

[irowiki]

My cooling system worked fine until I decided to flush it, must have knocked enough crap loose that it clogged the radiator. Which to me was counter productive, if I had known that I would have left it alone, but who knows the last time it had been flushed, it was filthy! First bottle is what drained the first time, second bottle is what drained after running prestone flush, third bottle is after I flushed the flush with water!



After that, the car would run up to right below HOT under normal running conditions. I replaced the cap, the thermostat, and it still went on, almost overheating if I put a good load on her. I had my heater bypassed at that point, and it was suggested to turn the heater on and see if that helped. Bam, normal operating temperatures!

Thankfully, the heater core did not get plugged. Replaced the radiator and all hoses and now the temp remains constant even when pushing 75 MPH on the highway, or tons of stop and go city traffic!


dlb: I did not notice such a rivet on mine, so if it has one, it is probably installed wrong, should I be concerned?

[Rokkatansky]

Irowiki, thats enough to scare any car person into not flushing there engine.
Flushed mine about 2 months ago the container proposed 10minutes, left it in for 30minutes and never had that much gunk.
Been running on flush cleaner while checking engine and ran 50 km's so far.
Those photo's just made me scarred to flush the water.
Guess i'll see what happens.

[dlb]

irowiki, if your temp has been good and steady since replacing all those things, don't worry about checking your thermostat. if there was an air lock, you would have had some overheating or temp fluctuations. and not all thermostats have that rivet. the last one i replaced on a terc did not have it but the new one did so i'm not sure if there's any consistency on it between different brands.