A while ago it was pointed out that my front CV boots were separated and I'd probably need to replace the axles soon.
Well yesterday, after a 180 mile trip back from Albuquerque with the car fairly loaded at fairly high speeds (70-75 mph) I stopped at a light for a left turn, and upon the light turning, noticed the car was really fighting to make the left turn while power was being applied to the wheels. After passing 20 MPH or so, the issue went away. Starting from a stop on a straight path, the steering wheel would wiggle a lot more than usual.
The only thing I noticed different was the smell of possibly hot grease when we got down there originally, plus a few more vibrations than usual, but I figured it could just hot, or wet oil splashing on the exhaust as well, it was pouring rain!
If I made a turn without power to the wheels it seemed to turn fine. Made it home, figured I'd let the car cool off and see what happened. This morning, it ran and steered fine for the most part!
If it is indeed the axles, am I looking at just buying something like this:
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/CARDONE-60-5005- ... ~60_57.JPG
Any bearings, nuts/bolts/washers needed? How complicated is an axle replacement?
Or am I looking at some sort of steering issue?
Are my CV joints finally going out?
- irowiki
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Are my CV joints finally going out?
Former Tercel Enthusiast (not a practical family car anymore but they still have a place in my heart)
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- dlb
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Re: Are my CV joints finally going out?
that does sound like more of a steering or front end issue. when the CVs start to wear out, you will hear and/or feel clicking or clunking, most notably on acceleration when turning. if you hear/feel clicking/clunking when turning left, the right axle is causing it, and vice versa.
i would jack up each front corner and check for play in the wheel. make sure the steering is locked and push/pull the wheel from left to right. if there's play there, look and see where the play is coming from. it will be either the inner or outer tie rod. try the same thing but with your hands at the top and bottom of the wheel. this is to check for play in the ball joint, although i personally have found this test to be useless. i have found the only reliable way to check ball joints is to remove the steering knuckle from the ball joint so that i can actually get my hands on it. not sure what kind of anti-sway bar the front ends of the first gens use but maybe check its bushings.
i would jack up each front corner and check for play in the wheel. make sure the steering is locked and push/pull the wheel from left to right. if there's play there, look and see where the play is coming from. it will be either the inner or outer tie rod. try the same thing but with your hands at the top and bottom of the wheel. this is to check for play in the ball joint, although i personally have found this test to be useless. i have found the only reliable way to check ball joints is to remove the steering knuckle from the ball joint so that i can actually get my hands on it. not sure what kind of anti-sway bar the front ends of the first gens use but maybe check its bushings.
- Petros
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Re: Are my CV joints finally going out?
you can also test them for play by hand. You reach up and try to wiggle the axle back and forth, one hand on the axle shaft, one on the hub end. You can feel the play, if there is any play, they do not have much life left in them. If the steering wheel wiggles back and fourth in a cyclic fasion when starting from a stop, that is also pretty good indications the cv joints have lots of play in them.
They are not too hard to replace if you have the correct tools. your first gen Tercel might be a bit different, but you will need a large socket for the axle nut at the wheel end, with a large breaker bardk and likely a cheeter pipe on that as well (it helps to soak the large nut in ATF or penetrating oil the night before). Once the nut is free, you have to unbolt the bottom of the strut, that allows it swing out far enough to remove the spline from the hub. Than you pry out the inboard end with a large pry bar.
They are not too hard to replace if you have the correct tools. your first gen Tercel might be a bit different, but you will need a large socket for the axle nut at the wheel end, with a large breaker bardk and likely a cheeter pipe on that as well (it helps to soak the large nut in ATF or penetrating oil the night before). Once the nut is free, you have to unbolt the bottom of the strut, that allows it swing out far enough to remove the spline from the hub. Than you pry out the inboard end with a large pry bar.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
- irowiki
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Re: Are my CV joints finally going out?
Interesting, that is exactly what was happening, but only after going 70-75 MPH for 2+ hours.If the steering wheel wiggles back and fourth in a cyclic fasion when starting from a stop, that is also pretty good indications the cv joints have lots of play in them.
After it cooled off over night it has been fine!
I'll jack it up soon and check for play.
Former Tercel Enthusiast (not a practical family car anymore but they still have a place in my heart)
Site administrator, if something is broken, PM me!
87 Corolla FX16, 105k
94 Jamboree RV (Ford E-350), 90k
95 Camry Wagon, 197k
05 Avalon, 199k
Site administrator, if something is broken, PM me!
87 Corolla FX16, 105k
94 Jamboree RV (Ford E-350), 90k
95 Camry Wagon, 197k
05 Avalon, 199k