Front Bearing Questions

rauzers · Post by **rauzers** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 8:11 am

I am getting some great grinding noises in the front end of my car when turning at speed so I figure its about time to do the front wheel bearings...

Has anyone done this before? I've done it in my 4runner, but it was pretty easy as it was not a sealed unit.

Can anyone tell me what tools I will need, time involved or any other helpful hints.

PS. I still cannot access the FSM posted on the site, is there any way that it could be e-mailed to me??

Thanks.

takza · Post by **takza** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 8:52 am

If you are using dialup...talk to your ISP about the problem....use a downloader that will resume downloads....reload your communications/modem driver (don't mess if you don't know how)....try downloading off hours???

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:17 am

You need a press to do the front bearings and it isn't easy. I've done the job 3 times and screwed it up 3 times.

GTSSportCoupe · Post by **GTSSportCoupe** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:20 am

I've messed with the bearings before too on the front of my tercel, and it is really tough. I recommend removing the steering knuckles, buying the bearings and seals, and then delivering everything to a machine shop. You should be able to save a lot of money this way.

rauzers · Post by **rauzers** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 1:13 am

What is involved in removing the steering knuckles? Do I just have to seperate the ball joints, tie rod ends and unbolt the struts. Does anybody know what size the bolt is that holds on the axle? Are there torque specifications for this bolt (I don't to mess up the new bearings - those things are expensive!!)?

Are there any tricks to removing the steering knuckle that would make my life easier?

Thanks.....

GTSSportCoupe · Post by **GTSSportCoupe** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 8:19 am

rauzers wrote: What is involved in removing the steering knuckles? Do I just have to seperate the ball joints, tie rod ends and unbolt the struts. Does anybody know what size the bolt is that holds on the axle? Are there torque specifications for this bolt (I don't to mess up the new bearings - those things are expensive!!)?

Are there any tricks to removing the steering knuckle that would make my life easier?

Thanks.....

Most of your questions will be answered by downloading the Tercel Factory Repair Manual on our main page. It tells you step by step how to remove the steering knuckle and gives torque specs etc. Makes things lots easier. You have the right idea though.

If you can't find or figure out how to download the pdf manual, just use the search function on the forum to search for answers to the same questions that others have asked already.

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 10:06 am

iÃƒâ€šÃ‚Â´ve done the job in my car like 5 times, since i have a press its no big deal, ive since built a couple of tools for that job specially like an alluminum spacer to push the bearing in so it wont mess the bearing, but itsa a really straigth forward job

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:26 am

Why 5 times? Your bearings must be lasting as long as mine.

The axle nut is 30mm, so that's what size of socket to buy. Before you commit to doing the job, try to loosen the axle nuts with the wheel on the ground using the strongest tool you have. If they won't move, you can take it to a shop and get them to loosen them with the acetylene torch.

arbskynxnex · Post by **arbskynxnex** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 1:32 am

I guess I buy good bearings, I've only done them once in 300K. Again, have a machine shop press the bearings in. I got my 30mm as an impact socket, slapped it on a ratchet, bigger is better, put a cheater bar on, again bigger is better, and cranked like heck. You do need a hub(?) puller to get the knuckle off of the halfshaft, you can rent one pretty cheap. I've always replaced the ball joints when I had the steering knuckle off, since they're right there and cheap too. If you've got a Chilton's, their description is pretty good for getting everything apart.

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:14 am

I think it's important to get the seals pressed in the right distance from the bearing surface that they seal against. The book give a spec for press-in depth. Next time I do it which must be soon, I will make idiot-proof bearing and seal drivers with the lathe and use those to press them in. I won't use the flathead screwdriver this time.

What kind of grease and bearing packing method do people use?

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 11:12 am

i did the job 5 times beacuse i changed hubs 5 times experimenting with brake setups the last ones i changed were like 3 years ago when i put the last hubs in, the other hubs were donated to my friends who did cut out models for school.

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:15 pm

So which hubs will press into our steering knuckle?

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:49 pm

they were al25 hubs but with different caliper mounting points, the thing is the suspension maxed out i tried brakes from:

dodge ram 1500
corrado g60
toyota mr2 turbo modded disks
ford mustang gt (didnÃƒâ€šÃ‚Â´t fit the wheel)
stock brackes

they all worked well for a while but, my spring and shock combination maxed out pretty easilly so im going for aluminum pieces and ineach one i put new bearings jus to be shure

takza · Post by **takza** » Thu Apr 14, 2005 2:20 pm

Question????

Does anyone think it's really necessary to use a new nut when installing a rebuilt axle???

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Thu Apr 14, 2005 3:14 pm

Well my front wheels are still on the car after reinstalling the same nut too many times to keep track off. And for that matter I don't even have the retainer and cotter pin installed, they always seem to get lost or broken.