throw out bearing ?

[Gottolovem]

Rotational noise coming from bellhousing area stops when I depress the clutch pedal
previous owner stated the noise started after she had the clutch done.
the car has been driven roughly seven thousand miles with this noise throw out bearing or possible other problem any advice is appreciated.

[dlb]

if it's a grinding/growling/bad bearing sound that occurs when the clutch is engaged (pedal up), i would guess it's the input shaft bearing. this is a bearing inside the transmission so it's actually a substantially larger job than a throwout or pilot bearing.

i had to do the same bearing on a '92 civic hatchback recently and there was a lot of confusion and bad info online so i want to be clear about this now. when you depress the clutch pedal, you are disengaging the clutch. at this time, the pilot and t/o bearings spin while the input shaft does not because the the clutch is not, in effect, connecting the engine to the transmission. so if you hear bad bearing sounds when the clutch pedal is depressed, it's likely the pilot or t/o bearing. when you release the clutch pedal, you engage the clutch by allowing it to 'connect' the engine to the trans. now the input shaft will spin whether you are in gear or neutral so if you hear bearing noise then, it's likely the ISB. i found that the noise was less noticeable at higher RPM but i've only experienced it once so i'm no expert.

also, when i did this job on the civic, i found that the t/o bearing was actually in far worse shape than the ISB but it made no noise at all. i talked to a friend and he said that sometimes the pressure of the clutch fork pushing the t/o bearing against the pressure plate will keep the bearings aligned nicely so they can still be quiet when they are worn out. he said the best way to test a t/o bearing is to only put a slight pressure on the clutch pedal so that there is less pressure pushing the t/o bearing against the pressure plate. you will be more likely to hear noises then if it is worn.

good luck.

[Gottolovem]

:l

Thanks for the (input) no pun intended. The trannys got to come out either way so i will just swap it all out. The sound is best decribed as a loud tick in time with the rotation of input shaft not a grinding or whirling noise if i didn't know better i would say it sounds like a lifter tick. Perhaps the shop that did the last cluch job put an extra set of heads in the bell housing

[keith]

Extra set of heads??? I would check the gap between the bell housing and the engine and make sure that there is none.

[Gottolovem]

Extre set of heads is a joke obviously. By the way This car is going up for sale after i fix it
it's a solid rust free runner.

[Petros]

A tick that goes with the input shaft is either a bad input shaft bearing or a tooth missing on the input shaft gear. I have seen this kind of failure, it is unrelated to the clutch job unless for some reason they put a lot of pressure on the input shaft and damaged it internally. Not likely but possible. There is also a small change the new pilot bearing or t/o bearing are bad and are ticking, they usyally squeal if bad. It is possible the pilot bearing was damaged when the trans was installed, they started tightening bell housing bolts before it was all the way in (this could also damage the input shaft too). May of the after market o/t or pilot bearings are junk right out of the box, I once swapped back in my old original toyota pilot bearing after the "new" one started squealing after only a few months.

Either way, as you say, the trans has to come out. If it is internal to the trans you best do it right away or you risk trashing the whole trans, which would be a shame since it is getting rare to find good ones.

[Gottolovem]

Thanks for all the feedback i will put it on the list. My daily driver needs a head gasket and the one i sold a couple of months ago she overheated and it needs a head gasket to. I will follow petros write up when i do both gaskets then i will get to the tranny job. As always thankyou