carb

[toyoroller]

i have an 84 tercel and need a new carb. i dont want to even mess around trying to rebuild it so if you have a spare id be interested in buying it. thanks

[dlb]

welcome, toyoroller. where are you located?

what problems are you having? often these carbs just have a few (or a lot) of vacuum leaks and once they are sorted out, the problem is solved.

[Petros]

welcome to the list!

Yes to what DLB said, what are the symptoms and what makes you think it is the carb? I have owned nice Tercel4wd, and have only rebuilt the carb on one of them (and even than it was not a full rebuild, but a clean out and replaced the float needle valve). the most common issue with the carb is the AAP diaphragm which is easy to replace without even removing the carb from the car. The carbs are pretty reliable on these cars, more often it is a vacuum leak elsewhere that causes drivablity issues, or even the vacuum lines connected incorrectly. follow all your vac lines using the vac routing diagram to verify they are routed properly and all connected. Despite the mass of vac lines, it is not that time consuming to follow each one from start to finish, takes only about 15 min.

I have several used carbs, but all have some kind of drivablity issue. I have a rebuild kit I was going to rebuild one completely, and than test drive it on my Tercel and keep it as a "back-up" spare. If I did that for you what it would you be willing to pay for a rebuilt and test driven carb?

[toyoroller]

yea its hard starting and puts around for a min. then it gets a shot of gas and feels like its a turbo and the extra gas makes the car finally get up to speed once i get it around 15 to 20 shes fine but up to that point she kinda just scoots along. I have to floor it to give it that shot of gas that it needs to get up to speed. idk i just figured it was the carb and i bought a rebuild kit but have never done one before so i was kinda sketched out to do it myself and figured it would just be worth it to buy a new one b ut just dont want to spend that kind of cash. let me know what you guys think. ive owned plenty of yotas but never tercel always a fuel incjected pickup. thanks

[toyoroller]

id be wiling to pay like 100 bucks or so for the carb

[Petros]

I just noticed that I wrote "nice Tercel4wd" that should be "nine". Could be a carb as you describe it, but I would still make sure all of the vac lines are connected and routed properly without leaks, and all the vac equipment was operating properly. It would be a waste of time and money to buy my rebuilt carb, swap it out and found out it still has the same issues (that were not in the carb).

Also, a bad AAP diaphram could make it act this way. Pull off the vac line that goes to the AAP (see the service manual carb section and see what part this is). If you pull the line and cap it, and find issue improves, it is easy to replace just that. There should be a new one in your kit.

After you make sure it does indeed need a new carb I would consider selling you a rebuilt carb for $100. But only after you test the rest of your system.

[dlb]

don't be intimidated of doing a carb rebuild. there are small parts but as long as you work in a clean area and keep everything well organized, it's not difficult. the same goes for troubleshooting the vacuum systems. they look intimidating because of all the hoses but if you read the emission control section of the FSM you will see that most components are super simple and easy to test.

and with experience, you know where to look first based on the symptoms. petros mentioned the AAP and that's a good place to start since it's a common culprit of poor running throughout, especially when cold. the AAP enriches the fuel mixture when the engine is cold but if the rubber diaphragm is ruptured, fuel can leak into both the carb and through the vacuum hose to the TVSV at all engine temps. definitely a good idea to look over the entire vacuum system though since everything there is 25 yrs old. these cars can run fine with a bunch of faulty components but they run much better when everything is in working order.

[toyoroller]

alright thanks. i will go through the system this weekend and hopefully may not need a new carb. I will keep this posted. Thanks again!!

[emmahumpfritter]

Is it not pretty standard advice here to recommend a Weber install? Every T4wd that's passed through my life--all in the 200-300K realm had carb issues. Every Weber-ized T4wd including my own has gained a new lease on life from it.

[Petros]

I have owend nine T4wd, and my current daily driver has over 320k miles with the orginal carb, all but two kept their original carb, the two I replaced with used ones I got from the wrecking yard. I have never done a full overhaul on any of the carbs, the most I have done was take off the top and clean/blow it out, replace the acceleration pump and/or float needle valve. All have run very good when I was done cleaning them out and adjusting them. I have never even had a bad AAP, though that does seem to be a common problem.

I have found the original carb is a very durable, reliable and good running device, the only real issues with it are very cold starts, and really hot restarts (vapor lock, more a shitty ethanol fuel blend problem). most of the trouble comes from all the vacuum lines that go bad, get disconnected or mis-routed. With a weber you do get rid of most of the vac lines, but that is not the fault of the carb.

why would I recommend replacing it? The weber is a pretty costly change, and it seems there can often be issues getting it to work correct, clear the hood, etc. I can get a replacement stock carb at the wrecking yard for about $24, or I can rebuild the one I have for a kit that costs as little as $10 (from rock auto), or about $30 from Autozone. So it is always cheaper and faster to fix the stock carb, it is only troublesome to fix if you do not properly diagnose it.