A few key points:
- The car has no standard ignition. The keys were stolen, so I use a little push-button start mechanism that bridges the starter / acc wires in order to start the vehicle.
Before I had to resort to using this method of starting the vehicle, there were no charge issues that I know of.
Now the battery, fully charged, won't last more than several starts if there's any electrical functionality used when driving the vehicle ( heater, ac, lights, even wipers ).
It's winter, so I've been using the heater every time I drive it. If I don't use the heater or ac, there doesn't seem to be an issue with charge.
There's a noticeable dimming when the fan kicks on with the heater or ac.
The alternator puts out ~13.2 volts at idle, and usually maxes around ~13.7 with rpms. * Unless the heater or ac is on, then voltage significantly drops *
The battery was replaced over the summer, and has been checked.
The alternator was replaced a couple years ago.
The alternator has an internal voltage regulator. ( haven't been able to locate an external voltage regulator anywhere on the fender wells. )
Another possibility is the ignition mechanism uses probably 8 gauge wires ( think computer power supply size wires ). Not the thick, standard ignition wires I've seen. I'm only guessing, but could there be a resistance / strain on the electrical system because I'm using smaller gauge wiring in the ignition mechanism? I haven't replaced the ignition setup due to finances. Just trying to keep the car running on what I have.
Thanks for any help!