HELP! Steering Rack Assembly Replacement

[nessanater]

1985 toyota tercel SR5 4wd. I am in the middle of trying to replace my power steering rack assembly, and I can't get it out. I have it all disconnected , but it will not fit out by sliding it over to the side, and there is a ton of stuff underneath it in the way, and all of it looks very connected everywhere. I have loosened the bolts that attach the bottom plate below the rack to give it more room, but I'm still short about a half inch or an inch. Has anyone got any good advice from experience replacing this. I love how the service manual basically says remove four bolts and take it off, cause that is not possible. Please please help!

[Petros]

Odd you are having trouble, I have removed several at the wrecking yard without removing the engine, these were the larger power steering ones too. I was able to wiggle it out sideways. Perhaps if you loosen the front engine mounts and raise the front of the engine a bit off the cross member you will have more room. you do have the steering shaft linkage off (the one with the small u-joint on it), and the power steering lines disconnected?

[nessanater]

I have it completely disconnected from everything, there is nothing attaching it to anything anymore. Is there anything I should be careful of when raising the front of the engine? And how would I go about lifting the front of the engine?
I'll try to take pictures of this all tomorrow. Maybe there's something that's not stock here that I didn't know wasn't. I really thought I'd be able to wiggle it out sideways like you are talking about, but there's just not quite enough space no matter how I turn it. Thanks for the input, I hope I can figure this out.

[xirdneh]

i did it recently
i supported the engine and
removed the cross member
removing the crossmember is a pain in the .... but the steering rack came out easy

[nessanater]

Yeah, the crossmember definitely seems to be in the way. How do I support the engine? I looked at all the bolts that have to come off to remove the crossmember, and after seeing how attached it is everywhere I thought I should ask here in case there was an easier way. This is my first repair project on this car. Removing bolts is hard, my whole body hurts, but I am learning alot, and it wouldn't be that difficult if the bolts would come off easier and not be so hard to get to.

[TURTCEL]

Since you are working with parts that are under the car and get exposed to all sorts of elements be sure to soak the bolts with penetrating oil be removing the crossmember...it wil make the job much easier. I would try and soak the at least a couple hours before the job.

Just remember, everytime you do a job and hurt afterwards you should have a greater knowledge of your new ride. Pain is a reminder that we survived another day to battle it out with our beloved cars. Look at the aches and pains as one step close to your baby being back on the road.

Good luck.

Peace

[Petros]

Raising the engine is easy, only tow nuts to remove, I have done it several times to drop the pan on the engine. Remove the engine mount nuts from the top, I use a 17 mm box end wrench, a socket with extension also works, than you can either jack the engine from the transmission, or if you have an engine hoist (I use a come-along type hand winch on the cross beam in my garage), and just raise the engine. You do not need to remove anything else, removing the top rad hose gives you a bit more travel if necessary, and you have to watch the distributor does not hit the firewall and damage the cap. No other problems will be in the way, it will give you about 2 to three inches of space under the engine.

Since the mount bolts on attached to the rubber engine mounts you will have to wiggle it free when raising the engine, you have to do the same wiggling around to get them back in place. This can be easier if you remove the lower bolt from the engine mount on one side to allow you to position the mount as you jiggle the engine around, I find it easier to remove the mount on the left side, I use a 17 mm open end wrench to fit it down under the mounting bracket and still clear the frame.

Lowering the cross member could also work, but removing the large cross members bolts (four of them) could be difficult and often results in the internal nut that is welded in place to break free, than you are really stuck, you can not remove it or tighten it back up without doing some cutting and welding. I would not try it, it is much more work than rasiing the engine even if the bolts do not give you any problems.

[ARCHINSTL]

I'm sure you thought of it, but you might as well replace the two rubber bushings that hold the rack in place.
See this for the correct OE part numbers: https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=6519

I supported my engine via a scissors jack on the pulley (kinda-shaped wooden block in between).
Tom M.

[nessanater]

Ok, managed to barely wiggle it out without having to raise the engine or drop the crossmember. Also ordered a new bushing (the arch shaped one), couldn't find the circle one, but it looks fine to put back in. Yay!

[TURTCEL]

Congrats nessanater. Now you just have to get it back in. Should be a lot easier going in now that you know how it comes out. Keep us posted, I have a friends Terc that needs one replaced so all the tips help.

Peace

[nessanater]

So I got it all back together except that I'm having a problem getting one of the tie rods (driver side) back onto the wheel hub. The tie rod is up too high, making it be at too much of an angle to get it into the knuckle. I have tried making it longer and shorter and tried turning the wheel hub and turning the steering wheel, but I can't line it up no mater what I've done. I'm at a loss. The other one went back together fine. What can I do? I'm taking it to get aligned as soon as it's put back together, but I just need to get this one tie rod back in. Help please! Also, what kind of oil is supposed to go into the thing the drive shaft (cv axle) goes into? I have a little bit of catching on 3rd gear, and beard there's supposed to be a certain type of oil that's better at helping with that than the standard kind. Thanks for any help, I'm so close to being done!

[TURTCEL]

Can you post a pic of the tie rod end at the knuckle and how far off it is? Is the steering rack shaft the same length on the rack you took out (where the tie rod threads on to)? If you got a reman or a junk yard part sometimes they give you what they think will work or a wrong part was used during reman process?

Peace

[nessanater]

I will post pics if I get back to the car tonight. The only thing I can see that I did that was out of order on the instructions from the FSM is that I reattached the power steering lines and the yoke before I attached the tie rod ends to the steering knuckle. Do I need to back up and do it in the correct order?

[dlb]

nessanater, im not sure about your tie rod problem but as for third gear "catching," what exactly do you mean? does the trans chirp or grind slightly when you put it in third? other members with similar problems have tried different trans oil additives but with mixed results--some say it improved, some say it didnt. if you do a search on here you will find a number of threads and info on the topic. if you consider switching to synthetic, be aware that these transmissions need a kind that does not have friction modifiers. check 4wdchicos post here:

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4& ... ers#p43503

personally, when ive had minor trans issues (which i have in my current DD) i prefer to simply modify my shifting to accomodate it. the syncros for 1st and 2nd in my car are shot so when the trans is cold, i start from stops in 2nd, and i pretty much always have to rev match when shifting. its easy to do but you just have to get used to it. the less work, the better, IMO.

[Petros]

the sequence of assembly should not matter, each of those items can be removed when servciing the other parts without removing the rack, so I doubt that is the issue.

Only two things come to mind, you should you have the rack centered? perhaps the rack was installed all the way over at one lock and you just need to center it. The other is perhaps the inner tie rod end is locked up/bad? This is not that difficult to install the tie rods, it is hard to imagine what kind of problem you are having. Please describe in more detail why the outer tie rod end will not go into the arm on the steering knuckle.