Quick and Dirty Water Pump swap

[tercle]

What's the fast, easy way to swap in a new water pump?
If coolant is leaking from the water pump, does a new pump and gasket usually fix this leak, or can it be from the smaller gasket or o-ring?

The timing belt went on my old 2wd automatic oil-burner this morning.
Wouldn't start and starter went too fast with an odd rhythm.

I removed a few screws and pried back the top of the upper timing cover, and the timing belt wasn't moving - but the water pump and alternator were.
But the belt wasn't broken (it did have too much slack, though...)

When I finally got the lower cover off, I found that the section of the timing belt touching the lower pulley was toothless.
I needed to fix it fast, so I just swapped in a new timing belt.

Got it all back together, and even after re-tightening radiator hose clamps, it was bleeding coolant.
It's coming right from the water pump.
(*come to think of it, the temp ga did get a little high a couple times last night, so maybe I was loosing coolant then too)

I intend to sell this wagon soon and I am trying to spend as much time as possible getting my new 4WD road-worthy.

The Factory Svc Manual has an extended, proper procedure for replacing the water pump.

What's the quickest way?

Or could the leak be coming from the o-ring behind it?
I didn't do anything to that area today (intentionally)

[Petros]

your water pump is going bad, it will not take long for the seal to complete blow. Replace the water pump now! if you have to drive it check the coolant level every time you drive it, and watch your temp gauge like a hawk.

The water pump is an easy change in these cars, only takes about 30 to 40 min. and you can get water pumps cheap from almost any autoparts stores. I do not recommend the rebuilt water pumps, many are junk right out of the box. Get only a new water pump, if I recall NAPA has them for only about $40.

Drain the coolant (save it in a clean bucket to reuse when you are done), remove the radiator to give you room to work. Remove the fan belts and the timing cover, remove the belt pulley, and unbolt the water pump. clean off the gasket surface, use gasket sealer and a new gasket and install the new one. Install the radiator and hoses, replace coolant and you are done.

If you need a new thermostat this is a good time to replace it since access is much easier with the radiator hoses out of the way. Get only a good quality t-stat, cheap ones are junk. If the one in it is less than 2 years old you can probably just leave it since you are selling the car anyway.

good luck.

[tercle]

On pg EM-9, the manual says if timing belt teeth are missing,
"check to see if the camshaft, water pump or oil pump is locked."

Although the pump is spinning freely now, can they momentarily lock up when they are going bad?
Could that be why the timing belt teeth were sheared off and why there's suddenly a noticeable leak?

[marlinh]

You didn't mention the mileage on that belt. The rubber gets brittle over time and that is the most common place to shear teeth off. If the water pump locked up the v-belt would slip on the pulley. It would not affect the timing belt. The water pump has a drain hole near the bearing and would leak coolant from there. If the o-ring behind the pump is leaking you may be able to see the leak from taking the upper cover off and looking for coolant dripping along the block or checking for coolant along the front of the oil pan below the crankshaft. You may need to clean this surface first if very dirty.

[Petros]

the water pump is not driven by the cam timing belt, you sure you are looking at the correct manual? Or did some new hire at Toyota make such a big error on the service manual? I doubt even a "locked" oil pump would damage the belt, if the oil pump froze, you will very quickly trash the engine, and not affect the timing belt at all. the oil pump is driven by the flats on the camshaft. That is really an odd statement for a FSM, you would think they know their own engine better than than.

A frozen camshaft could cause it, I have seen that. The cam got oil starved and froze up, and the timing belt broke.

[tercle]

It's right there in the 1985 manual on this site.
I thought it was odd when I read it yesterday, so it stuck in my head.
Then the water pump started leaking and I remembered that thing that didn't make sense.

I'm not sure how many miles are on the belt.

[tercle]

Can the suction cover assembly be withdrawn without removing the heater outlet pipe?
I can't figure out how it comes out from the FSM.

Wait - they have you removing the water pump with the suction cover connected?
Then why do they say remove the heater outlet pipe mount bolt?

One of the 12mm bolts - the one furthest to the right - snapped off.
There is about 3/8 of an inch of the bolt fragment showing with the suction cover still in place.
So I am hoping to remove the cover and get penetrating oil, vice grips, and a small hammer onto the problem.
Turning out to be not so quick.