EGR Valve Elimination '85 SR5 4wd 6 speed? *TURTCEL*

[TURTCEL]

So, I have a 1985 SR5 4wd 6 speed with Fed emmisions that has a bad EGR valve. I have researched this topic a lot an due to the expensive cost of a new EGR valve I have decided to eliminate it from the system. I understand that I will be blocking off the valve at the manifold itself but can anyone who has either knowledge on this topic or has done it themselves give a run down on what needs to be done to complete this project? Specifically the vacuum hoses that need to be plugged and can I eliminate all the componets in that system and block off all the lines and still be ok? I would like to just take the stuff off the motor so it will have more access to other parts since it won't be used anyway? Can the EGR valve actuator be removed and have the lines plugged off or does that do more than just work with EGR valve. I don't want to take off too much but I like unnecessary components to be removed if possible. Thanks to any info on this topic. Also, if anyone has pics that they can post of this job being done that would be awesome too. Peace

[Petros]

remove all of the components, they only work on the EGR and no point in leaving it if only part of it is removed. It has been a while since I have done this, but as I recall if you just remove everything and install plugs in all the empty places. There are some threads about weber carb conversions with good pictures of the EGR removed and plugged. Should work the same way with stock carb.

[splatterdog]

All of them I've seen so far are already disabled from pre-diamond deposit clogging. Just leave it alone? Or did it stick open?

[TURTCEL]

There is a vacuum leak at the pintle. So when I manually raise the rpm's at the carb to around 1800 and spray carb cleaner at the EGR it roughens the idle. If I am not going to be using he EGR set up then I I will rempve all the components from under the hood and plug everything off. If the EGR was just plugged up I would remove it too since I am very particular about my vehicles and eliminating anything unnecessary. Thanks for the info guys. Peace

[Ace]

I disconnected my EGR valve some years ago as a test, hoping for more power. Then I had significant pinging/knocking under certain conditions, especially at lower altitudes. So I put it back to original and have kept it that way ever since.

The engine tuning is set up for everything working as intended. Engine knock is very detrimental. Newer cars have more sophisticated systems to manage spark advance to avoid pinging. If you do disconnect your EGR, you may want to use higher octane fuel or retard the distributor timing as necessary to minimize knocking. If the engine is older with lower compression this may not be an issue.

[TURTCEL]

I just found a new STANDARD EGR valve on Amazon for my Terc for $29.00 plus $4.99 shipping . Couldn't pass that deal up. Only 2 available at that price. I should have bought both but if someone else needs one for a great deal grab it while you can.

Peace

[TURTCEL]

Just a note on the EGR valve that I ordered for 29.95 plus 4.99 shipping off of Amazon...all turned out good on that deal. I received the EGR valve today and it was exactly what I needed. It was a brand new, exact fit unit. So to all those that may have been leary about the cheap price of the EGR it turned out to be a good deal.

There is only 1 of these 30 dollar EGR valves still available on Amazon so get it while you can.

Peace

[TURTCEL]

So I pulled my stock EGR valve off today and replaced it with a new aftermarket one. The original was totally plugged with carbon deposits and had a leak in the pintle. The intake was clear as well as the EGR pipe. I put the new valve on and reused the old vacuum modulator.

I read in the FSM that the modulator has a filter inside that can be cleaned out. Since the EGR valve was clogged with carbon deposits what are the odds that the modulator would need replacing or does a good cleaning like described in the FSM usually keep the modulator up and running? These little parts are not cheap and I would like to just clean and reuse mine if I don't have any reason to change it.

Peace

[ARCHINSTL]

I cleaned the OE modulator on Goldie back in 2005 per the manual, but later replaced it in an attempt to get her to pass MO's (then required) emission test. Whether that was the final item to get her to pass, though, I do not know - by then, after almost 7 months of futzing, I was desperate and just did not care.
Tom M.

[TURTCEL]

I will put the car all together as is right now and see how things run. I will then check and test components if necessary. I have no problem serviving components but I also have no problem replacing with new ones if I have to. My Terc is my baby so I like to take extra good care of her.

I installed the new carb last night and had a little idle surge like a vacuum leak. I will do some more investigating today and see if I can pin point the prob. I called my local shop that has been helping me with this project and I may take it in Monday and have them fine tune the carb for our area. They did a great job last time and my mechanic is old school so he knows carbs. He ia actually very familiar with these Terc carb set ups.

Peace