Any Tips for replacing front brake pads ?

[Buzzard67]

Hello everyone
Iam a new member but have owned a Tercel SR5 1985 before. Now I own a Tercel 1984 DXL. I have read some of the post on this site and yes Iam the guy who paid too much for the Tercel DXL with the weird rims in SD back in March of this year. I did talk the the dealer down some (small victory). I had to have it my 1985 SR5 gave me many years of loyal service and 290,000 miles before the frame rusted thru (live in MN). My goal is the new 1984 Tercel DXL will never see a winter and be stored in the winter months
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Now back on topic. How do I just change the front brakes pads in a 1984 Tercel DXL ? I need some hints, tricks and knowledge. Any help would be great , this seems like something I could do.(novice mechanic)

One more thing, where is the trigger to set off the cargo light when you open the hatch back? Not the switch on the head liner, but the button that contacts the door and frame, cant find it.

Thanks for any help.
Buzzard67

[dlb]

hey buzz. changing the brake pads is easy.

- break the wheel nuts loose.
- jack up the front end and put stands underneath the cross member (the big black frame thing that goes across, underneath the engine).
- remove the wheels.
- remove the two 10 or 12 mm bolts (can't remember which size they are) that fasten each caliper to the steering hub but be careful not to strip them--they can be rusted pretty good so if they are, clean them off well, spray them with PB blaster, and let them sit for an hour or a day before proceeding.
- once those bolts are out, pull the caliper and pads off the brake disc and pop the old pads out.
- use a vice or whatever and compress the piston back into the caliper to make room for the fat new pads.
- install the new pads with the various little springs and squeal alarms (those squeal when your pads get low so you know to replace them again) and put it all back together.
- check the brake fluid level in the engine bay. add or remove it with a syringe as necessary.

while you're doing the pads, check the rubber brake hoses for cracks or bulges and replace those as necessary. if they've never been replaced, they will almost surely need to be. you don't want those to burst because that would mean no brakes.

good question about the trigger for the hatch dome light. i just looked and couldn't find it either. if the light isn't coming on though, i would first check the bulb, and then the wiring. it runs from that dome light to the driver side and down behind those plastic doors where you can access the brake and turn signal lights. make sure it's plugged in, not corroded, wires intact. a project terc i just fixed had the wires burnt and cut! very odd. i just spliced a new plug on to it and it worked fine.

check the FAQ for other things you should do when you purchase a new-to-you terc. it's covered in question #4:

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7442

post some pics of your beaut!

[Petros]

I want to add that you do not want to allow the caliper to hang on the brake flex hose, so tie them up with wire or string. If the caliper pistons return back in without problem and you see no leaking brake fluid, you can reuse them and should not have to bleed the brakes. If the piston is jammed or takes much effort to return them back in than you should get rebuilt calipers, flex hoses if you need them, and than you will have to bleed the brakes.

If the rotors are in good shape they can be reused, if they are scored, bluish or deep wear marks, just replace them. If you have to replace the rotors and calipers, you might as well do the brake up grade (cost is only slightly more), that I have out lined over in the repair guilds section. you can put on the '92 or newer rotors and calipers (with the spacers) on the Tercel4wd without replacing the master.

[ARCHINSTL]

The trigger for the hatch dome light is inside the hatch; see https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... tch#p42406
There are some tricks to removing the hatch cover; your '84 does not have a center brake light, so that cover does not need to be removed. The big thing is to use care; there are some "internal" push pins and the silly little external "screw" type. There are a couple of threads on this, among which, see
https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ilit=hatch

With the hatch cover off, it would be a good time to spray a rust preventative in the bottom of the hatch and drill a couple of drain holes - and also use silicone on the wiper linkages, and in particular the white plastic connectors. See https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ilit=hatch
Tom M.

[splatterdog]

Don't forget to make sure the slide pins still move and the pads don't have to be forced in to the bracket. Besides using the cheapest parts available, cleaning and lubeing is the biggest problem I see with brake jobs. Diy or "pro".

[dlb]

Don't forget to make sure the slide pins still move and the pads don't have to be forced in to the bracket. Besides using the cheapest parts available, cleaning and lubeing is the biggest problem I see with brake jobs. Diy or "pro".

this is a really good point. the last time i did brakes on a terc, i found the slide pins were really gummed up. had to disassemble, clean, and lube them. can't remember what i used for lube though. probably 3-in-1 household oil or something light like that. what would you suggest, SD?

[splatterdog]

NO petroleum products on pin boots/bushings! They will swell up and get tight. There's more than a couple appropriate lubes. I use Dow 111, which is a dielectric silicone paste. For those doing a brake job just now and then, those ketchup packet caliper lubes at the parts stores are fine. It just has to say "rubber safe". The bracket is just metal to metal contact, so just about any non melting grease should do.

Also, the place that needs the most attention is under the anti rattle clips. If the pads come out/go in tight it is because of rust swelling up beneath the clips. In Mn this is extremely important. They ALL need attention here, even first timers. After rust removal, I grease the bracket and the pad side of the clips. Just watch out for excessive grease as that can get on the rotor/pads. I wipe out the rotor slot in the bracket before bolting up to help keep it off the stopping surfaces.

If the rotor isn't rusted to the hub or you are replacing it, spinning a lug nut on will help hold it in place while you bolt everything up.

[danzo]

While we are on the subject of brakes....Soon I will upgrade my fronts to the later vented rotors thanks to Synth's magical spacers. No idea when my j-yard calipers were last used so I wanted to clean them up a bit before installation. I plan to pop out the pistons and inspect/wipe the bores with a brake fluid soaked rag. Any other ideas?

[Petros]

I would not remove the pistons from the calipers, it can be difficult to replace them without damaging the seals. I would pull the dust boot back and inspect the piston, if there is no corrosion and they slide in and out without excessive resistance, I would wipe them with brake fluid and leave them. If there is rust and pitting on the piston, than the seals likely have to be replaced and the piston too.

The front calipers tend to hold up pretty long, even when stilling around without being used. The real killer is trap moisture, it will cause the piston to rust and get corrosion pits that will ruin the seals.

I have reused calipers that have been sitting around without issues, the rear wheel cylinders and the masters tend to get dried out and ruined when they sit without being used.

[Buzzard67]

Many thanks for all the 4WD members (dlb, Petros, ARCHINSTL, Splatterdog, Danzo) who posted help. I was able to change my own front brakes. I will post some pictures soon. Can anybody point me in the right direction for upgrades(like Shocks,Front & Rear) or good parts catalog(JC Whitne ?)
Thank you all

[speedgraphic]

Many thanks for all the 4WD members (dlb, Petros, ARCHINSTL, Splatterdog, Danzo) who posted help. I was able to change my own front brakes. I will post some pictures soon. Can anybody point me in the right direction for upgrades(like Shocks,Front & Rear) or good parts catalog(JC Whitne ?)
Thank you all

Check out RockAuto.com - they have a coupon posted in the General forum. Their prices are pretty competitive, but make sure to be mindful while ordering - look out for "except STATION WAGON" or "except 4WD", for example, in the part description.