Removing engine/trans from a car...

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:28 pm

Have a chance to get a good (?) transaxle from a 4WD...but don't want to work my 6 off trying to get it out.

Good only in the sense that the trans currently has oil in it and has reasonable miles on it...if the speedo works. 150K?

There is a forklift available that will lift the entire car...so was wondering IF I could unbolt the front & rear xmembers and some misc. stuff like the axles/drive shaft...and then lift the car body off the eng/trans assy?

Next Q:

How much would the eng/trans weigh and would they fit in the back of a Terc4WD?

What other parts would be the best to get? Car is very rusted as far as the sheet metal.....

GTSSportCoupe · Post by **GTSSportCoupe** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 3:15 pm

Sounds totally doable to me. Your tercel should easily be able to handle the weight of the engine and trans in the back. I transported a 3ac in my 87 tercel and it was light enough I could actually lift it out myself. They probably weight in around 200-250lbs. And the trans is probably only about 50-70lbs.

AbusedJalopy · Post by **AbusedJalopy** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 11:29 am

Here's what I did. I jacked the front up and crawled underneath, undoing all the front transmission bolts first and pulling the front CVs. Then, underneath the car, I placed a jack with a board on top to support the transmission without damaging it. I jacked it up to take the weight off and then unbolted the drive shaft bearing to let it hang down and come out. Then I undid the bolts on the rear of the trans. I slowly let the jack/trans down while pushing towards the rear of the car to allow the spline to seperate from the clutch and pilot bearing. Once out, we lowered it all the way and pushed is out the front of the car, which was jacked really high up. The thing is really easy to move around and looks small when outside of the car. Installation is reverse, but as a helpful tip, remove the spline from the round shaped plate on the back of the bellhousing. It will slide right out. It makes putting the trans in a breeze because the only thing you're lining up are the bolts and don't have to worry about the stupid spline hitting the clutch at a weird angle. Once the fronts bolted up, let the rear still hang down so you can reach in their and tap that spline back in, rebolt the plate, and lastly bolt the trans back in place.

dug320 · Post by **dug320** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 1:05 am

You can pickup (depending on your back) the engine and move it short distances without an aid. The wieght of the engine should be around 220 pounds. The transmission should be around 48 pounds.

This will easily fit into the back of a tercel. Just put a sheet of plywood down before putting the engine in the car. The plywood should be expendible.

Retroloc1 · Post by **Retroloc1** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 7:05 am

You can take th eengine off without any aid nor any lift device if you've already removed the radiator and the front bumper.
I did it twice. One foot on each chassis brace, one hand under the exhaust manifold and the other under the alternator... and it goes out.
For the trans you then just have tu unscrew the rear crossbar, clip the cv shafts out and go (don't forget the speedo cable and reverse/4wd light wires ).
Without any lift tools, plan about 1H30.

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 8:58 am

I used the input shaft trick, that was the only way I was able to get it back in. I also seperated the trans from the front diff and bellousing, which is simple, only 12 bolts and 2 nuts. With it in 2 parts, I bench-pressed the bellhousing/diff onto the engine, then lined up the rear half of it with a jack which is easier because there's 2 extra long studs to get you started. I can't get over how easy it is to get the bellhousing on with the input shaft removed - you don't even need a jack! I also tied the cluch lever in with a piece of wire because it hits the body alot otherwise and makes it difficult to place the bellhousing. Remember to remove the wire before you start bolting it to the engine. I didn't at first, and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go on all the way.

If you're doing it by yourself like I did, I would reccommend seperating the trans from the bellhousing when you remove it as well. If you take the whole thing off at once, it seems to me like alot of bending force will be put on the input shaft as it's coming out of the pilot bearing in the crankshaft.

If you drop the whole engine and trans down, you'll also have to completely remove the steering rack. You can leave it bolted to the crossmember which will be coming off with the engine but undo the steering shaft and tie rod ends, and PS lines if any. This method could end up being less work.

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 9:21 pm

Great info! I'm probably going to have to use this info if I don't find a used Tercel that is closer than 300 miles and in good shape for a decent price. No luck finding one, they are becoming scarce down here.