Car died, and now won't start

[serpentaria]

I degreased the engine and cleaned it and everything. I put some cardboard underneath the engine, and about 3 hours later, it was pretty obvious as to where the leak was coming from. I had changed the oil too about 3 days before, and when I checked the oil levels before washing the engine, I noticed that it had lost about a quart of oil in just over 3 days!

So the oil leak looks like it is coming form this aluminum bolt around where the timing belt is? Any ideas or help would be great.

Also, I was going to see if anyone might be able to recommend a good place for parts. I am looking to get 2 front wheel bearings and the 2 cv axles. I had purchased my distributor off of ebay for $50, and so I was thinking that ebay might be a good venue, but any suggestions here would be helpful. cv axles & front wheel bearing

[dlb]

i recently looked at the rockauto website and they appear to have a good selection of stuff at some really good prices. i know tom and a few other guys have been loyal butler toyota in indiana shoppers. i'm up in canada so it's a totally different ball game up here but those are a few i've heard good things about on this forum.

[ARCHINSTL]

Where are you located?
I (and others) have had XLNT luck with GSP new axles, which various sources (including Advance Auto Parts) carry. See https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=6513
Just be sure to get the correct axle seals - see https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=6484
Others have had good luck with EMPI new axles.
Most report eventual dissatisfaction with reman axles.

As dlb reports, I (and others) have had GREAT luck with Butler Toy in Indy. Note that this is for OE Toy parts. The Parts guys are great and really go out of their way for old econobox parts. And the prices are GREAT (for OE) parts as well!
Others have reported similar good experiences with Conicelli Toy in PA, and still others with Village Toy in FL.
I've stayed with Butler, as it's closer to MO than the others - and I have a good rapport with it. NONE of the 6 Toy dealers in the Metro STL area give a rat's patootie about getting parts for old crocks (the cars - not me!) - and the prices suck as well.

Note that we have a darn good Part Numbers - OE and Aftermarket Forum here.
Tom M.

[Petros]

Only go with new CV axles, not re-manufactured. I got mine from Rockauto.com at $60 each, they also have great prices on front bearings as well. I have found if the replacement parts are made in Japan or USA, they are usually as good as the dealer parts.

I do not know of any "aluminum bolts" near the timing belt. There are bolts in the front aluminum housing. Oil can leak from either the front main seal (most likely if I understand your description), the cam seal, or from the valve cover gasket, run down the front under the front cover and leak out the bottom. Sometimes if the valve cover gasket is leaking in front, it will run down the front of the engine under the front cover and leak out the bottom. The valve cover gasket, and the front cam shaft seal, are real easy to replace. The lower main seal is a lot more work, but not too bad if you can get the front pulley bolt off.

If it was me, I would plan on replacing the timing belt (unless you know how old it is), the front seal and the cam seal all at once. Some also replace the belt tensioner but I have found them pretty reliable (as long as the bearing is smooth and quite).

One list member had a similar leak, he thought he messed up the new front seal he installed since it still leaked. I went over to help him, we ran the engine with the front cover off (and no fan belt or front pulley so we can watch it), and we found the oil was leaking out a tiny hole in the oil pump housing. I have never seen such a defect before, looks like a flaw in the aluminum housing, but it could have been damage from sloppy tool handling. who knows?

I only mentions it because sometimes very rare, but odd things, can cause oil leaks.

[serpentaria]

The leak was coming from the oil pan, right near the plug. I'm surprised I hadn't noticed it earlier. Maybe the previous owner had run over a rock, but the mechanic said that it looked as if they had tried to pull it out/repair it. Bummer he didn't mention it. Anyway, so this guy's going to take off the pan and weld repair it. Should have it back in a couple of hours.

After this, the engine'll be mechanically sound, and my next order of business is to get the new cv axles and front wheel bearings. I'll check out RockAuto. Can't wait once everything is running/rolling smoothly, I can focus on the aesthetics, like some beefier tires and maybe a Yakima rack I know roughly the specs of the racks (1a rain gutter base with the 48" poles + accessories) but can anyone recommend a good set of tires, or at least the dimensions. It comes with 14" stock, correct? I wanted to upgrade to 15", so does anyone recommend something good for 4wheeling/mudding, but would also be good on the road? Sorry for all the questions. I'm still perusing the forums, so I'll prob eventually find my answer...

[Petros]

The car come with squish and flexy narrow 13" steel wheels, for off road use I would suggest 5.5 or 6 x 14" alloy wheels with 195/60 tires. You can go with the 15 inch but you risk damaging the side walls with a lower profile tire (that is presuming you want to match the rolling diameter). The 14" wheel with the 60 series tire is the best compromise for road/off-road combo use. The 15" wheels will improve handling further, but I do not think would be good for off paved road use, and not good for wet weather performance.

You will be surprised at how much handling is improved by just going to a stiffer 14" alloy wheel over the stock flexy 13" steel.

[ARCHINSTL]

You will be surprised at how much handling is improved by just going to a stiffer 14" alloy wheel over the stock flexy 13" steel.

What he said!
I was surprised at the difference - and my switch was done after renewing all front and most rear suspension components!
Tom M.

[North of 64]

Looking forward to the meet June 23rd so I can experience the difference in ride with larger wheels. Never thought of my 13" steelies as flexy, but hey, what do I know, they are the only tire/wheel combo I know.

[Petros]

if all of the road you drive on are loose surface gravel, or worse, you may not notice much difference. Exactly how many paved roads are there in Dawson city? Can not be much with a population of 1200.

[North of 64]

@ Petros, Not loose gravel til you drive The Dempster to Inuvik, NWT. Around here we have hard packed dirt roads in town - I mean we are a National Historic Site! For the 530km/300 + miles drive to the capital you are riding on chip seal (gravel embedded in a tar like substance) that rides much smoother than gravel and much noisier than pavement. And speaking of pavement, we have about one mile of beautiful 2 year old smooth, quiet and historically coloured pavement that leads to the Ferry landing. Apparently the pigment to colour the pavement to a "dirt brown" hue was imported from Europe at horrific expense. Love my town.

[GLet71]

Front Street is paved? Wow, that'll be hard on all the skidoos driving through town in winter!