another rough starting thread

[warbstrd]

this has been happening since I got the car and has gotten progressively worse, now its really bad.
Really hard to start and once i have it started no high idle, rich condition like you wouldnt believe (my neighbors smell gas who are about 200 feet away), but once the temp gauge moves about an 1/8 inch she runs really smooth. She will stay started (running really bad and smell lots of gas out the tailpipe - huge rich condition) and once it warms to a certain temp its like someone flip a switch and she idles perfectly. Its that quick - idles bad - snap your fingers - and runs smooth. I need a weber? or is it something simple i am overlooking? I already replaced ALL the vac hoses, about 15 feet worth.. Once she idles smooth she runs smooth with no more problems until the water temp is cold. As I am writing this I am wondering if it is the TVSV because as long as the temp gauge is above that 1/8 inch from cold she runs fantastic, below the 1/8 inch she has problems.

[dlb]

it sounds like something in the emissions system is stuck to the 'hot' setting but it could also be a malfunctioning 'cold' component or the choke. i would use the FSM to test each one thoroughly. it really doesn't take that long, i just did it on my project car. i love testing the TVSV, you just heat a pot of water to certain temperatures and then make sure that air passes through certain ports at those temps. super simple, neat stuff.

[andrewrenow]

Sounds like the same problem I had. I may be wrong but your fuel pump may need to be replaced

[GLet71]

I've currently got the same issue going on with my Terc. I have to pump the s**t out of it to keep it running. Once warm, it's a thing of beauty. I am hoping it is my choke linkage, because I'm not getting that typical high idle at startup. I just bought this car recently, and think it may have been sitting for awhile. Not having seen one of these carb's dismantled, can someone answer whether the accelerator pump has a leather sleeve on it like an old Ford? I remember those would get all dry and crusty if they had been sitting for a time and wouldn't allow proper fuel into the carb.
If not any of those, then andrerenow has a point about the fuel pump/filter. I'll try the quick fix, and pour a bottle of carb clean into my next fill; anybody have a particular favourite that works for them?

Yeah, I said a bottle of carb clean. I'm just lazy that way !!

[Petros]

not likely you need to replace the carb, that is a pretty drastic and costly measure. And it may not make the problem go away if it is not in the carb anyway. You need to properly diagnois it first, than the repair will be easy.

There are a number of components that control mixture, particularly cold start mixture. You need to work your way down the list of possible causes in the FSM and test each system. There are like 4 separate system, just take them one at a time, depending on the year and model (you do not list the year of your T4wd). It could be a malfuntion in the high altitude compensator (HAC), the mixture control (on the right fender well in front of the strut tower), The TVSV, The AAP (auxiliary accelerator pump).

One thing you might check first is the AAP diaphragm (on the front right corner of the carb, next to the float bowl, it has a vac line that goes to the TVSV). When that leaks it allow fuel to go almost directly into the intake manifold through the vac line.

Good luck.

[Lil Beast]

I had the AAP in mind cause of the neighbor that can smells gas 200 feet away! When mine went I had those complaints from my neighbor too! And one time I remember being at a drive thru, without realizing I smoked up a poor old lady, I could hear screaming and coughing behind the car but just couldn't see! Big thick black smoke, this is when the AAP failed totally! It started gradually at being slightly more expensive on gas, and then super expensive, rough hot start, until just too much I had to take the carb apart and find that AAP all destroyed! I would check that first cause it sounds like it's starting! Look at the FSM I got to go! But you. Don't have to pull the carb off to fix this!

[dlb]

ditto on the AAP. i was thinking about this afterward and it seemed likely due to the super rich running. how has your mileage been while this has been going on, warbstrd?

[rer233]

+1 on the AAP diaph- just disconnect the vac hose from it and plug off both connections. if problem goes away, you have your answer! i've found it's cheaper to buy the complete carb kit after market (got my last one from Rock Auto) than to buy the diaph alone from the dealer. good luck!

[warbstrd]

One thing you might check first is the AAP diaphragm (on the front right corner of the carb, next to the float bowl, it has a vac line that goes to the TVSV). When that leaks it allow fuel to go almost directly into the intake manifold through the vac line.

+1 on the AAP diaph- just disconnect the vac hose from it and plug off both connections. if problem goes away, you have your answer! i've found it's cheaper to buy the complete carb kit after market (got my last one from Rock Auto) than to buy the diaph alone from the dealer. good luck!

Absolutely correct!!!! pulled that vac hose (and broke the nipple) but once plugged she purred like a kitten. ordered the carb kit from advance auto and bought some JB weld. glued the nipple while waiting for the kit to come in. picked the kit up, installed the AAP diaphragm and 5 hours latter, one pump of the gas pedal then turn the ignition and she started no problem and purred like a kitten.

thanks guys

[GLet71]

Took you all up on your wonderful advice, and installed a new AAP diaphragm today. It appears to have been the culprit, because it seems to start easier and idle better than ever! If I don't add another note to this thread, you can all assume it is still working proper~!