1986 tercel 142km! Few issues/q's..

[1986baby]

hey guys hows it going?

me? im doing alright i guess just picked up this 1986 toyota tercel im pretty happy with it.. few lil problems but i think its gonna run along time after i put some work into it lemme see if i can get some help here, thanks in advance ....

well first gear clunks a lil not to happy bout that.... was told it was normal? i laughed when i heard it (what kinda clunk can be normal lol? guy said its a old car bla bla lol that was the guy who i bought it from funny i know)

number 2: i noticed a line from the carb to this small thing on the left side (ill grab some pics soon) was off i hooked it back up i might have unhooked it checking a coolant line there..

number 3: starter makes a noise After it starts, the guy(friend mechanic) i talked to about it said its normal they all do that?(besides that he said it makes noise after started so its fine leave it? i was likee whattt no way!!!!!) well my moms bf has a tercel and it doesnt do that( my starter was a rebuild from lordco i think) they only have one for this model maybe its time for a new one even tho i was told it got replaced last year(outside seems rusted), really im worried about the gear my starter connects to (fly wheel gear?).(ALSOOOOO sometimes it takes 5 seconds or more of holding the key to start it which makes me think the starter is gonna go)....

number 4: seems like when i start it in the morning it doesnt wanna stay idleing(only a few times) (i have HAD this car for a week) last night i was going out! wet out pretty cold anyways it took a few times to start didnt wanna stay going held gas when starting and it went OORRRR i just started it a few times and it started one of the two, it scared me tho and had me pissed off.. also!!! --> a big hose from head it seems or something to bottom of air filter wasnt connected bought a new one reconnected it..

number 5: i noticed a bit of coolant leaking from a line but its not just a line its at the front of motor screwd into engine ima snap some pics in the morning show you guys what im talking about maybe even a video... thats not to much of a worry cause it doesnt leak at an alarming rate but a inch from the rad is enough to worry me..

number 6: !!!! also gonna throw this in there, when it firsts starts when cold it seems like its not getting enough gas until i rev it
timing was done recently HE SAID! new starter last year,also a rebuilt carb not to long ago... i think it was sitting for a few months...(the car)

[1986baby]

--------------------
:::::::::::::::::stuff i had in mind, hmmmm take off the air filter & spray some carb cleaner down into there ? not to sure how to do that but i think i could is that stuff safe?

replace the starter or at least take it out and inspect the gear...

check for vacum leaks? not to sure what that means im guessing a hole in a line? any methods for that?

gonna take a better look @ this thread any help would be awesome , it does run pretty good just was told by mech that starter makes a noise but its ok cause it makes the noise on release if that makes any sense, the tranny first gear cant do much about that maybe some lucas oil? tranny flush worth it? iunno lol.... a carb clean would be awesome but that scares me, spraying some stuff down into the carb would be ok for me to do..

[dlb]

well first gear clunks a lil not to happy bout that....

see question #5 here: https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7442

number 2: i noticed a line from the carb to this small thing on the left side (ill grab some pics soon) was off i hooked it back up i might have unhooked it checking a coolant line there..

yes, make sure all lines are properly connected. very important.

number 3: starter makes a noise After it starts,

if part of the ignition is worn out (i think it's the return spring but am not positive), when you turn the key to start it it will not return to the running position. you can fix it, or you can just make sure to not hold/turn the key back once the car is started. as long as you don't forget and leave the starter engaged for a long period of time your starter is probably fine. if there is a problem with the starter, it will either crank slowly, just click, or not crank at all.

number 4: seems like when i start it in the morning it doesnt wanna stay idleing

check your idle and fast idle settings. use the factory service manual (FSM) to check these. the link to it is at the top of every page.

number 6: !!!! also gonna throw this in there, when it firsts starts when cold it seems like its not getting enough gas until i rev it

same as above.

check for vacum leaks? not to sure what that means im guessing a hole in a line? any methods for that?

take off the flying saucer-looking thing, that's the air cleaner housing. underneath it you'll see a whole bunch of little rubber hoses. if there are any that are disconnected or broken or going to the wrong places it will cause problems so check the FSM or the decal on the underside of your hood and make sure all are in good shape and connected properly. be sure to hook up the one or two that are attached to the air cleaner housing when you put it back on!

read the entire FAQ thread i posted the link to, as well. lots of good 'getting started' info there.

[Petros]

Welcome to the list!

Clunking is NOT normal. IF you have clunking when you drive off from a stop, it is not likely the transmission. Check rear axle mounts, front suspension bushings, CV axle condition, and motor mounts (including one under the rear of the trans). Not likely a safety issue, but it could be a worn ball joint, or loose bolts in the suspension, which could be a safety issue. No matter what causes it, it should get fixed before it causes greater damage to something else.

It is fairly easy to verify all of the vacuum lines are connected properly, see the vacuum routing diagram in the Service Manual (link at the top of the page), remove the air cleaner assembly and just follow each line to make sure it is connected properly. And inspect for disconnected and damaged lines that will cause a vac leak.

I do not know what "makes a noise after it starts" means. I have seen the ignition switch return spring go bad where when you release the key when the engine starts the starter stays engaged. IF this is the case with you than the simple fix is to just manually return the key to "run" position after the engine starts, instead of just letting the key go. You can run it this way if you are always careful to return the key to the run position, but replacing the ignition switch is not too difficult with either a used one that is good, or a new one from NAPA or the dealer.

The cold start problem could be a issue with vacuum leaks, fix the vac routing and usually the problem goes away. You could also verify that the choke is working properly, and the High Altitude Compensator (HAC) is working and the mixture control unit right next to it (that is the device on the right fender between the strut tower and the radiator coolant reservoir). See the Service manual for test procedures (they are not difficult, just follow the directions to test it). If the choke, the HAC or the mixture control is not working properly it can make the fuel mixture too lean and it would act like a vac leak.

To check for vacuum leaks, carefully inspect all of the lines looking for cuts, cracks or breaks. IF none found, than start the car with the air cleaner off, the large vac line that goes to the air cleaner should be plugged (use a bolt or small wood dowel). Run the car and listen for a leak around the engine, using a tube up to your ear like a stethoscope helps. If nothing than use a can of carburetor cleaner spray and spray it on all of the vac lines, and vac operated components, if the engine speed changes when you spray it in one spot, that is where the leak is located. The carb cleaner gets sucked in and usually slows the engine speed (test this by squirting some spray into the top of the carb intake while it is running, it should slow down the idle speed for a few seconds). Some brands of carb spray will cause idle speed to speed up, that is why you should test it by spraying down the carb intake first.

Good luck.

[Lil Beast]

Well you've been served! One thing for the starter noise after start! If it's a grinding noise for like a fraction of second, it could be just loose( try to wiggle it should not move, tight it if needed) or the gear inside the starter could be worn(bad spring or worn gear may grab on flywheel)! I don't it's the flywheel gear it's huge and thick the starter one goes way before! They only thing that pops my head! If not the ignition switch!
I had the crazy none stopping starter once on my ford! Even with the key in my hand it wouldn't stop, it end up to be the positive lead to starter was rotted and created a some magnetic charge to the solenoid and would just kick it in! Weird stuff, anyway took me a while to figure that one out! Changed everything, until I had to put back an old part in cause the new solenoid fried! I had to disconnect the pole and short the solenoid and I was good for 3 or 4 start before it does again, that's how I fried the solenoid! Still don't fully understand it but is the only logical thing that I could figure out of that! Ask many people and pretty much only the mustang tweaker that seen it, so far!

[1986baby]

first of all thanks for the replies...

wanted to add this , this has happend once or twice wanted to mention it , went to start it earlier wouldnt start 4-5 tries had to hold gas to floor then finaly it barely started & then while holding gas to floor it wasnt revving then it kicked it, cloude of smoke came out which was wierd cause this baby doesnt really smoke.

now on to my replys

[1986baby]

number 3: starter makes a noise After it starts,

gonna talk about the starter noise first cause it worries me the most..

ill go try starting it and see if the key moves back to the run position or see if there is even any writing on the switch cause this baby is old, i know it makes the noise right after started.

i know sometimes gas isnt getting to it like just now earlier my mechanic was talking about the choke "does it always stay like that" then it moved to the up and down position if tht makes sense said it was fine give it a few pumps in the morning its a old car, he said the carb was as clean as it gets looking in from top...

but yeah just earlier it would not start 4-5 tries then finaly it started when i held gas when starting, then sounded like it wanted to die for a second until the rev kicked it and a puff of smoke came out pipe, starting idleing then it was fine , damn im confused

[1986baby]

the clunking happens at like 20 30 mph.... doesnt do that at all in any other gear everything else feels smooth so far

[1986baby]

Welcome to the list!
The cold start problem could be a issue with vacuum leaks, fix the vac routing and usually the problem goes away. You could also verify that the choke is working properly, and the High Altitude Compensator (HAC) is working and the mixture control unit right next to it (that is the device on the right fender between the strut tower and the radiator coolant reservoir). See the Service manual for test procedures (they are not difficult, just follow the directions to test it). If the choke, the HAC or the mixture control is not working properly it can make the fuel mixture too lean and it would act like a vac leak.

To check for vacuum leaks, carefully inspect all of the lines looking for cuts, cracks or breaks. IF none found, than start the car with the air cleaner off, the large vac line that goes to the air cleaner should be plugged (use a bolt or small wood dowel). Run the car and listen for a leak around the engine, using a tube up to your ear like a stethoscope helps. If nothing than use a can of carburetor cleaner spray and spray it on all of the vac lines, and vac operated components, if the engine speed changes when you spray it in one spot, that is where the leak is located. The carb cleaner gets sucked in and usually slows the engine speed (test this by squirting some spray into the top of the carb intake while it is running, it should slow down the idle speed for a few seconds). Some brands of carb spray will cause idle speed to speed up, that is why you should test it by spraying down the carb intake first.

Good luck.

gonna take the housing off now and look around better than i did half assd it ! was just changing air filter wanted to take a peek!

large vac line that goes to the air cleaner ill have to look for that bad boy...

spraying carb cleaner on the lines good idea, i seen 2 brands of carb cleaner @ autoparts store Gunk seemd like the better one, ill test the stuff... so i guess i should spray it on each line slowly to see if idle changes

spraying the carb cleaner into the carb so i gotta spray it any certain spot or is anywhere in middle good(i seen two holes wasnt to sure watched a vid on youtube of a guy spraying right down one of the holes).... thanks for replys ill be waiting for replys gonna be online allday today

[1986baby]

Well you've been served! One thing for the starter noise after start! If it's a grinding noise for like a fraction of second, it could be just loose( try to wiggle it should not move, tight it if needed) or the gear inside the starter could be worn(bad spring or worn gear may grab on flywheel)! I don't it's the flywheel gear it's huge and thick the starter one goes way before! They only thing that pops my head! If not the ignition switch!
I had the crazy none stopping starter once on my ford! Even with the key in my hand it wouldn't stop, it end up to be the positive lead to starter was rotted and created a some magnetic charge to the solenoid and would just kick it in! Weird stuff, anyway took me a while to figure that one out! Changed everything, until I had to put back an old part in cause the new solenoid fried! I had to disconnect the pole and short the solenoid and I was good for 3 or 4 start before it does again, that's how I fried the solenoid! Still don't fully understand it but is the only logical thing that I could figure out of that! Ask many people and pretty much only the mustang tweaker that seen it, so far!

yeah i checked if it was loose it wasnt but im going to check again

Update: changed oil, found a loose spark plug <--OMG seen some oil spitting a lil , odd tho cause this baby dont leak at all, tightend it up, changed oil filter, air filter, coolant seems ok.. im gonna check the fuel filter i guess, take a look at carb maybe snap a pic, gonna wait to mess around until i get a few more replys, look around on that faq as well... also my car is a automatic

[Petros]

sounds like you are flooding the engine. For a car with a carburator it is important to follow procedure until you get a better feel for it. when cold you must give it two or three pumps of the throttle to the floor, than hold off of the pedal and crank the engine, after start give it slow low reves until you can get it to rev up higher and than it should idle at a higher rpm. As it warms the rpm should go up slowly, and you have to poke the throttle to get it to idle down.

If you have a malfunctioning auto choke, or any of the vac lines are leaking or disconnected, you have to fix that first or the above procedure will not work.

The only time engine will smoke on start up is if it is too rich (blackish smoke), so either you are pumping it too much, or something else is wrong with the carb (bad AAP diaphragm in the carb comes to mind). If you have bluish white smoke, it is oil burning probably from the valve stem seals. If that is the case you can live with it until it gets bad enough you want to change the valve stem seals (medium large job, but it will not really harm anything to leave it). The oil additive "Restore" works pretty good as a temp fix for blue smoking problems.

[dlb]

in regards to the clunking, you need to give us more details of exactly when the clunking occurs and where it's coming from. is it from one of the wheels? does it happen when turning or on acceleration? i wonder if it's a bad CV, which are fairly easy to replace.

[1986baby]

sounds like you are flooding the engine. For a car with a carburator it is important to follow procedure until you get a better feel for it. when cold you must give it two or three pumps of the throttle to the floor, than hold off of the pedal and crank the engine, after start give it slow low reves until you can get it to rev up higher and than it should idle at a higher rpm. As it warms the rpm should go up slowly, and you have to poke the throttle to get it to idle down.

If you have a malfunctioning auto choke, or any of the vac lines are leaking or disconnected, you have to fix that first or the above procedure will not work.

The only time engine will smoke on start up is if it is too rich (blackish smoke), so either you are pumping it too much, or something else is wrong with the carb (bad AAP diaphragm in the carb comes to mind). If you have bluish white smoke, it is oil burning probably from the valve stem seals. If that is the case you can live with it until it gets bad enough you want to change the valve stem seals (medium large job, but it will not really harm anything to leave it). The oil additive "Restore" works pretty good as a temp fix for blue smoking problems.

well today it did not start for a bit again, i had to hold gas to floor to get it to fire up... i wanted to get a manual and try to adjust the crab but i have had bad times trying to do that on a dodge van(thing was a pz of crap with 400 thow km lol) but regardless sorta worries me but it is on my mind dont wanna get stranded, also im using a different key now it seemed to fire a bit better maybe im just dreaming but when i heard u guys say take a look if your holding key to long i got quite a few good starts just flicking it but it did make sound again................. but i dont think that is the problem gonna take off starter tomorrow and have a look @ the gear... new key seemed like it helped tho or i think it was just me paying attention to turning the key (it did end up making the sound again)...

Could anything else be making the sound!? screw this im making a video tomorrow(goes to charge camera) i got some pics if you guys want some eye candy motor looks good got a pic of carb tho from the side anyways...

[1986baby]

in regards to the clunking, you need to give us more details of exactly when the clunking occurs and where it's coming from. is it from one of the wheels? does it happen when turning or on acceleration? i wonder if it's a bad CV, which are fairly easy to replace.

my last post i mentioned it.

it happens @ 20-30km... im pretty sure its a clunking in the tranny cause its feel slike its from the bottom of motor... also if i go faster when i take off it doesnt seem to clunk so much but it still does...tranny will be tons to fix asked the tranny guys down the road how much for a rebuild he said 1200 to 2400 i almost puked...

the right wheel wobels @ fast speed... is that the cv joint? im hoping it is something else as it would be easy to fix... thats all i can think of about the clunking

[1986baby]

also im gonna compare my starter to the one @ parts store ..

recently i changed a starter in a caravan they gave me wrong one was making a sound when starting turns out they gave me the wrong one, a 3.3 instead of a 3.0, put in the 3.0 bam! no sound worked great...

thanks for all the replys guys i really wanna sort out this carb issue! and the clunking hoping it isnt the tranny,

besides that im gonna have a tranny flush done @ penzoil for 110 EEKS but im sure it needs it regardless if its clunking or not!

itss just wierd cause no other gear (20-30 or so) clunks , maybe like 3 but not a clunk or even noticeable just feel it switch into it a lil once ina while...

but man that one gear goes im screwed , i just hope its something else cause i want this baby to last once i get it going good im going to let my family drive it