Trying to Replace Transmission!

[marcandfiveonettes]

Take a break, go get a beer, maybe 2.

Check on that part Jarf, no luck so far... going to sleep soon though, hope that works.

[xirdneh]

It might be important to add that my old transmission is stuck in 2nd gear.
when my shift lever is in the neutral position, the car is still in second gear.
the clutch is effective at engaging and disconnecting the gear but I cannot shift between the gears. the lever itself is disconnected somehow from the mechanism inside.
I started to wonder if the transmission is typically removed in the neutral position.
the clutch cable is disconnected so it is currently engaged in second gear.

AHHHHH!

it does not matter what gear it is in
you must have a bolt left in there somewhere
there should have been (4 ) 17 mm bolts two on top and one on each side
(7) 14 mm at engine block to tranny connectors on bottom (one each side)
two 14mm bolts at starter motor
one 14 mm bolt with nut just below starter and big bolt on driverside
one 10 mm on top right connecting water pipe to tranny (its hard to see this one)

[marcandfiveonettes]

I can say that there are at least a few bolts missing from the whole picture already. the top passenger side 17mm for one (car has obviously had some work done in the past) and at least a couple others that I can't recall at the moment (I have to be at work in 6 hours)

off the top of my head I am unsure about the status of:

one 14 mm bolt with nut just below starter and big bolt on driverside
and
one 10 mm on top right connecting water pipe to tranny (its hard to see this one)


I removed the starter and the bolt just beneath it that I had thought was a 17mm which held another metal piece which had two threaded holes on it. one hole was empty (assuming it may have held a shield or something which has been discarded) and the other hole on that piece was attached to the chassis by a small electrical wire
don't remember 14mm with nut, what context of your guide was that?

as far as the 10 mm connecting water pipe to tranny.... don't remember finding that... I THINK we had determined it must have been already missing but not for sure.
I'll spend some more time looking around

[Lil Beast]

If you are trying to get the engine and tranny in one unit from you're hood, YES it's normal that the engine moves, if you're trying from beneath and get only the tranny but most likely you've missed on at least one bolt. Personally I prefer the one unit method less hassling.

[arbskynxnex]

Marc. I've done a couple of transmission swaps on these and I'll throw in my 2 cents. If you don't have a mechanics mirror you should get one, it will make checking for bolts on top of the transmission much easier. Pull the starter all the way off, that way you know those bolts are out, and it isn't hard to remove or install. Do you have a block of wood (2x4 works well) between the engine and firewall? I've found that the transmission doesn't separate from the engine until you can ease the weight off the transmission which requires the engine being supported on the back side with the wood. Then it comes right out and the clutch lever jams in the firewall and you end up spending some time swearing to get the angle right for it to come the rest of the way off.

If you're with in an hour or two of Olympia, and need some help, I've got time today (Saturday) and I could use an excuse to not go to some film thing that my GF wants to drag me too.

[marcandfiveonettes]

Olympia, WA? Got some family and friends there, but I'm in TN unfortunately.

[marcandfiveonettes]

I'VE GOTTEN THE OLD TRANSMISSION OUT
NOW THERE IS A NEW ISSUE.
THE NEW TRANNY HAD THE CLUTCH LEVER ON THE OPPOSITE SITE.
OTHER THAN THAT IT IS TOTALLY IDENTICAL
IT APPEARS TO BE DESIGNED TO BE REVERSIBLE
I TOOK THE CLUTCH LEVER FROM THE OLD TRANSMISSION, TOOK OUT A CAP AND GASKET, FLIPPED IT AROUND.
SEEMS LIKE ITS GOING TO WORK.

PROBLEM IS, THERE IS A TURNING WHEEL THAT TURNS AROUND THE QUILL SHAFT THAT MOVES WITH THE CLUTCH LEVER (NOT SURE WHAT IT'S CALLED)
I'M TRYING TO DECIDE WEATHER TO USE THE NEW OR OLD ONE
THE OLD ONE SPINS VERY EASILY, LIKE A SKATEBOARD WHEEL, WHEN I SPIN IT IT WILL SPIN HALF A DOZEN OR SO TIMES BEFORE STOPPING

THE NEW ONE (ON THE REBUILT TRANNY) SEEMS TO BE MUCH TIGHTER, IT WILL TURN BUT IT SEEMS TO BE PRETTY TIGHT AND CLICKS EVER SO SLIGHTLY

[Lil Beast]

I think you've might have end up with a japanese one they do clutch on the other side! Hope I'm wrong!

For the spins maybe bad bearing it shouldn't spin freely, need some resistance like 9ft/lb of torque about.

[marcandfiveonettes]

I really don't think the clutch lever is going to be a problem, it seemed it fit together all too perfectly. It is literally identical. My old transmission is the same way, I could now easily take the old transmission that I removed from my car and put the clutch lever on the opposite side simply by removing a metal plug from one side and gasket from the other and flipping them around and assembling everything in mirror style.

the thing is I have to use the clutch lever from the old trans because the new one came with a mirror opposite.

but Looks like I will likely go with the wheel bearing thing from the rebuilt tranny. The one that does not spin freely.
it will be a Frankenstein sort of thing of new trans with old clutch lever but new bearing thing.
Any objections?

Now about getting it in there...

I read about the idea of removing the shaft before putting the trans in.
It seems like it would be VERY difficult to reinstall the shaft after the trans is already in position.
does this mean the shaft goes into the engine before the new transmission?

[Lil Beast]

Nope don't have objections in using old clutch lever with the newer bearing, if it fits! I would install everything in order to be ready to put in. Not quite sure what u mean about removing the shaft! If your talking about the input shaft and don't see how u can remove it before installing, put you might want to consider putting it in gear(4th works fine) before installing so you can rotate the input shaft by turning an axle-shaft if necessary.

[xirdneh]

Not quite sure what u mean about removing the shaft! If your talking about the input shaft and don't see how u can remove it before installing.

i always remove the input shaft when re-installing tranny
life is much easier that way

[Lil Beast]

Don't know always got tranny out with the engine, so you would have to re install in two parts. Yep your right, you made me open my book. It said to be very careful that way! Install new O-ring gasket on the input shaft hole of the bellhousing. Be careful when installing the tranny to adapter plate. Make sure the splines on the collar correctly meet the output shaft splines of the tranny and the splines of input engage the clutch disc properly. Serious damage can occur to one or both units if this is not done!

[marcandfiveonettes]

Anyone else have more input on which bearing to use?

so I pull the plate off the back of the bell to remove the input shaft. it seems as though it would be very difficult to get back in after putting the tranny in.
any details on how this is going to go

how to I get the transmission oil in there after all is done?

I seriously can't thank you guys enough for all of your help.
I majorly underestimated this project and didn't really know how much I was going to need you all for help.
If things go as planned I will be finished today.

[Petros]

sounds like you got a trans for a right hand drive Tercel, from Japan on doubt. Using your old parts is no problem, the levers never give any problems. Sounds like you are questioning the throw-out bearing, it pushes agains the back side of the clutch to disengage the clutch assembly. The "test" is to push on it hard with your hands and rotate it, I would use the one with the most smooth rotation. If it is clicking I would use the old one (if it ran quiet when you drove it last).

I have installed new throw out bearings from a clutch kit only to have them squeal and make noise only 3 to 6 months later, when I had a chance I put the old throw out bearing back in it and have been running on the factory original t/o bearing since (over 300k miles). If you have a factory T/O bearing, and it passes the feel test, put in the newer of the two.

You can not put gear oil in it until you have it all in and put back together, oil will leak out of the tail shaft housing, the front axles input splines, etc. loosen the fill plugs before you put the trans back in, follow the directions carefully from the repair guilds, make sure you get at the full 4 quarts into the trans axle or you will trash your new trans. It is easiest btw to fill it from the front filler plug (in the front diff) and use a 3 foot long clear tube and funnel. Do not rush it, the oil can flow slowly from the front to the back of the trans, it is a long ways back.

Before you get it in I would verify the ratio is correct, and visually inspect all the seals for damage.

[marcandfiveonettes]

How can I verify that the ratio is correct?