stalling when coming to a stop and wont idle...help!

[ARCHINSTL]

Chilton is wrong - CA (and Canadian) cars do not have the HAC. I presume the Rockies and Sierra Nevadas, et al, were not thrust up until the early '90s.
Maybe the AS thingie on the air filter housing has something to do with taking its place? USA Federal cars do not have it.
Forget Chilton's - use the FSM here - or AutoZone's quite excellent Repair Guide - it has photos!
The hose that xirdneh mentioned in the first couple of lines in his penultimate post leads to the HIC valve on the cleaner body; you have one. If this is removed (or plugged), it can lead to weird idle issues.
Tom M.

[takza]

Mine was a California special...there is a reed valve in front of the air cleaner that can get stuff lodged in it causing it to stay open....but I think this just causes a loud exhaust noise....not idle issues. I taped over part of the opening inside the air cleaner where it sources air so it could only pull filtered air.

[ARCHINSTL]

Since takza mentioned the reed valve jobbie, that caused me to remember a prob with the reed valve on my '88 Dodge/Mitsu 2.6 - the reed valve had broken, allowing copious amounts of exhaust into the air filter housing instead of metering tiny amounts into it. I don't recall the idle prob, but it understandably had zilch power - as in crawling up slight inclines. I just removed the reed valve itself and blocked the tube - the truck still had to pass MO's visual emission control regs at the time (oddly, it passed the actual "dyno" test without the functioning valve).
Tom M.

[180racing]

Hmmm. I will check out the HIC valve and its connection.

[180racing]

I thought i had it figured out this week. Once it warms up now it runs well and will idle, but if you let it idle to long now it starts surging and will start stalling again.

[ARCHINSTL]

I had this as well - I could only eliminate it by disabling the "A" vacuum switch from the EBCV unit. See very long thread https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1372 and also the vac lines sticky diagram I made in Repair Guides.
Tom M.

[180racing]

Thanks Tom, , that old thread has given me a few more ideas and a little hope again.

[celtglen]

I don't have the 4WD but I did have this problem before. What solved it was making sure the idle speeds were correct as per the shop book; idle 900-950/ fast idle 3K, TP 1400rpms & the timing set right. Keeping the car in those ranges solved my surging problems since 150K ago. If any of them get outta synch I recheck and sure enough they need resetting.

The surging (in my car) was due to wrong mixtures esp. air mixture.

My Fed 84 has HAC and AP, I ordered mine through fleet sales and it was one of the last ones sent from Japan. Back in late 83 the cars (and I suppose prior to 83) were assembled in Japan with only the windshield wipers put on State side.
Hope this helps

[180racing]

I started pulling the evap canister off to sort it out and clean it and discovered that the main hose coming off the top of the carburetor down to the top of the canister has a significant amount of fuel in it? This can't be normal right? fuel level in the site glass looks to be within the correct range. Can vacuum pull fuel through the evap canister from the float bowl in the carb?

[dlb]

no, the gas fumes run from the gas tank through the charcoal canister into the carb. if the can gets plugged, you'll wind up with increased pressure in the gas tank. you'll notice this by strong smells of gas around the filler nozzle, hissing when you remove the gas cap, or gas even spraying out when you remove the cap. i don't believe there should be gas in the line you mentioned but check the FSM for more detail.

[takza]

I started pulling the evap canister off to sort it out and clean it and discovered that the main hose coming off the top of the carburetor down to the top of the canister has a significant amount of fuel in it? This can't be normal right? fuel level in the site glass looks to be within the correct range. Can vacuum pull fuel through the evap canister from the float bowl in the carb?

The gas cap holds some pressure and also acts like a relief valve to avoid too much vacuum. The canister has at least 2 valves in it also....you need to be sure these work and also the elect valve that controls when the canister is flushed....and also check the hoses to it. Don't think there should be liquid gas in that line. Canister can only handle some vapor and the liquid gas collected from this.

[Jarf]

Charcoal canister should NOT have liquid fuel as this will cause stalling.
Assuming that everything is routed correctly and all the little valves are working as designed.
I would be suspect rust silt in the float bowl. Rust silt will collect at the bottom of the tank, if run low or well disturbed, it can be sucked up and will blow right past the fuel filter and can cause idle fuel to be blocked and sometimes will cause flooding (and the fuel in the vapour lines, as will severely over-filling the tank so that it backs up into the vapour lines)
Super easy to diagnose if silting is the issue, wait till the problem rears it ugly head, pull the air cleaner lid off, cross #2 & #3 spark plug wires, start the engine and blip the throttle a couple of times. This will cause the engine to backfire and essentially is like a sneeze, blows the crud backwards out of the way, correct the wiring to the plugs and restart the engine, if it runs nice, you know you have a silting issue, aside from making it sneeze on occasion, the only real fix is to fix the rust issue inside the tank.
Hope it helps.