Just bought an 87 4wd DLX Wagon, Any tips?

[Skipperz]

Petros' advice was great, and I have been looking at it for a while. There aren't any older cars in my local junk yards, so I am buying the full brake set new. The Power Booster for the MR2 is pricey, so I am trying to avoid that for now, and if I have to get larger wheels, I may just need to stick with stock for now. As it stands I'm looking at putting out about $2750 to get it on the road and tagged. So adding new rims, tires, AND the Power Booster is pushing my reserves.

That paint scheme you have is awesome. I might borrow your layout. I have been planning on repainting this one, but I was thinking or just using the original color. Your ideas for the rust have me really thinking about it. I think an original respray, but adding your black accents might be the ticket!

Also a quick question, how hard would it be to change the gauges over to include a tach, and the center dash gauge pod? I really like having a tach, and I know I will miss it here. Are there other years or packages that have a factory tach that I could swap out/ I don't care if the odometer changes.

[dlb]

yeah man, all of the SR5 models from all production years have the tach. very easy to swap, just a few screws to remove the dash hood and instrument cluster, then unplug all the wires. easy stuff.

thanks for the props on the paint job! honestly though, when it comes to painting, if i were to do it again i wouldn't have painted my car like i did. it just makes me worry more about dings and rust, which are inevitable. when you have a nice paint job, as the car starts to show its age it looks tacky unless you keep on top of it, and i've learned that i don't have the patience for that. if i went back in time i would probably only put the bedliner along the bottom and that's it. then as it ages it just looks tough, rather than a car that looks like it used to be nice.

[Petros]

check the rubber segements of the fuel line up stream of the fuel pump, likely there is a crack in one of the lines, that is an easy fix. You pull the lines and see if they hold air pressure when you put your thumb over the other end. Verify your fuel pump is good by running a new supply line from the fuel pump into a gas can. If it will run off of the gas can the fuel pump is good.

Unless the fuel tank has a lot of rust or crud in it not likely there is any thing wrong with the tank or the fuel pick-up screen (you can inspect it from a hatch under the carpet next to the spare tire).

The larger MR2 calipers should fit no problem under the stock factory wheels. I happen to have a used but good spare power brake booster (along with a master cylinder) for the MR2. I will sell them to you for $100 for the pair, or if you just want the booster for $60. You have to replace these together, the MR2 master will not bolt on to the Tercel booster. PM me if you are interested.

[takza]

The only part about the brake swap that has me wondering, is changing the hard lines for the brake master cylinder. I don't know if I have the skills to bend lines to get them to fit.

You can bend them 1X...no rebending another direction allowed. Can do this by hand...just keep curves gradual. They should be tied down so they don't vibrate....and make sure they don't rub on any surface.

[takza]

Also, anyone have any ideas for reading OBD1 ports? My check engine light on my truck has been on for the past 30k miles and the last mechanic I talked to was saying how since it had a "Carburetor" (oooo scary) he didn't think it could be "ever fully adjusted properly." Needless to say I won't be going back to these new whippersnapper mechanics any more.

I think the early EFI systems just had a timer that put the light on after so many miles? Which meant things should be checked....replaced (O2?). Maybe the Autozone repair section might have info....

[Skipperz]

This I think I figured out, it seems the Mazda has a two wire plug under the dash that you have to switch every 90k or so. So the light being on right now, signifies all is well. And that explains why I can't get the code to flash manually.

And of course the truck must be feeling rejected, since as soon as the T4wd hit the driveway, it developed a wicked clutch fluid leak... Now I just have to nurse it along till the parts get here... Damn vehicles and their feelings! LOL

[Petros]

Our '92 mazda MPV (4wd) w/EFI has the check engine light come on after 60k to "remind" you to replace the O2 sensor (hah!). When that happens it will not code, you just get a CEL. You have to pull the instrument cluster and switch it off from the back. One time I just let it go for another 60k to see if it would switch off, no such luck. When I finally got a bad O2 sensor code I replaced the sensor at about 180k miles. So I just resign myself to pulling the instrument cluster every 3 years or so to turn that annoying "CEL" off.

[Skipperz]

OK... New question. The drivers door doesn't open. The handle on the outside seems to be disconnected and the inside latch doesn't work. I have the window down but I can't get the door skin off. Looking at the passenger door, I see the bar that is supposed to open the latch, but try as I might, I just can't get a slim jim to push that rod down and open the door....

Ideas?

[arbskynxnex]

If you take off the trim piece around the interior door handle (just a single screw) could you get a slim jim on the bar there maybe?

[Highlander]

My old '83 did this. You can't get the door panel off while the door is closed, I wound up using a 2 1/2" hole saw without the center bit to make a hole in the inner door panel right at the latch mechanism As soon as I touched the latch bar, it moved and all was well-except for the big freakin' hole I'd just put in the door panel. The wind blows right in on you- I'd use a smaller saw next time, and then bond it back in from the door side. Fugly but it works

[Petros]

with the window rolled down you can look down in the gap and see the latch mechanism, perhaps you can see what you need to pull on to open the door that way. Use a strong light to help see down into the door cavity.

[Skipperz]

Just back from the junkyard today and I think I scored! The MR2 was still there, and so were the parts. I got the Power Booster with the Master Cylinder. Boy was that ever a job to get at the bolts! Figures I took the clevis pin off the clutch and couldn't figure out why it wasn't coming out... (Sometimes I am such an idiot). I checked out the calipers, but both of them were really toast.

As I was rubbing my head from beating it on the steering wheel as I fought with the booster, I was looking at the Instrument Cluster. Petros mentioned it could possibly be used and rigged to work. So I grabbed it. It looks to be in pretty decent shape. So we shall see. I was also able to grab the rearview mirror from an 89 Cressida, the visor mounts (not the hinge side, but the clips), and a few trim pieces for my pickup.! All for the princely sum of $67. I am pretty pleased with it all.

I am thinking of holding off on the larger rims for the moment, but I had another question. Will the MR2 seats drop in? Mine have a decent tear in them, and these had 1 wear area on the drivers outer lumbar area (but not worn through like mine). Are there other seats that can be made to bolt in?

[Petros]

Yes, the MR2 seats can be made to fit. You have to alter the mounts some, but not too bad (bend the mounts and some hammaring and drilling). Here are pictures of mine and a brief description: https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ats#p32926

[simon84]

I did get a door panel off a closed door to fix the mechanism one time. It was not easy and I did put a small crack in the panel in the process. It was winter and things were brittle though. I would try to trigger the mechanism somehow before trying to force your way in.
Once you are in there it should be easy to figure out the problem.

[Skipperz]

Thanks! I have the door open finally!