Oil Pressure Switch

[Turkey]

I have a 1985 Tercel SR5 4WD M/T with an oil leak. I have tracked it to my oil pressure switch. Before I replace the switch, I need to know if I need to prepare the new switch before installation (i.e. teflon tape on the threads). Can anybody please help me out? Thanks in advance.

[dlb]

i quickly looked in the FSM and couldn't find anything there but a copper washer or one of the ones with a rubber inner diameter should be sufficient since it's just a plug similar to the oil drain plug.

how much is it leaking? did it start leaking on its own or did you do work in that area recently?

[Turkey]

Where can I find a copper or rubber washer to use with it? or am I just being overly paranoid?

The pressure switch started leaking on its own over time. It was at first a small weeping leak that I couldn't track, but now its bad enough that I need to address it. It is leaking at a rate of maybe a quart of oil per 1000-1500 miles.

[xirdneh]

get a new switch (they go bad and start leaking)
there is no washer
its a taper thread like a pipe fitting
the more you tighten the tighter it gets
a little gasket compound to the threads is ok (non-hardening type)

[ARCHINSTL]

I thought I had a similar leak a few years ago and bought a new switch - turned out I did not need it, so bankrolled it for the future. In 2007 it was only $4 from AutoZone. It is a DuraLast (house brand) part # PS123. It was the switch only - no washer.
Tom M.

[Turkey]

I only ask about thread preparation because I know that tapered pipe threads are designed to have some form of teflon tape for proper sealing.

[Petros]

I have used the tape before, but I find the non hardening form-a-gasket easier and works well. Either is okay, I would not trust it not to leak without the risk of overtightening it without a sealant.

good luck.

[Turkey]

I changed the oil pressure switch today. My question was answered after I had the new part in my hand. There is thread sealer compound on the threads of the new switch. You can see it in the attached picture; there is red material on the threads. See attached.

Oil Pressure Switch.jpg

Old Pressure Switch.jpg

Also have a picture of the old one in case someone was interested in seeing that one.

The body of the pressure switch is a metric hex, I'm sure, but the only tools I have that are large enough to grab it are standard, as it is between 1" and 1-1/16" I could get a 1", 12 point socket to fit over the body, but not 1" open end. The open end had to be 1-1/16". Also, the driver's side engine mount covers the oil pressure switch where it is located on the engine block. I had to loosen the alternator, remove the top alternator bolt and swing the alternator out of the way as far as it would go so I could get to the pressure switch. I used channel lock (possibly trademarked named *) pliers to get the old pressure switch out and I used a 1-1/16" open end wrench to tighten the new one.