green 85

[KENDALL]

Thanks for all your help got'r running drives great
got legal and took a drive after work. some pics

[ARCHINSTL]

Nice work - and nice photos! The wide-open spaces always amaze this (sorta) urban dweller.

1. Why didn't you hook up the cam cover breather hose? The Redline plastic gizzie is a joke - see my remedy at the last photo in https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ze#p333192.
2. From the location of the Weber's fuel hose, I take it you are using a pressure regulator?
3. Since you are not using the EGR stuff, why not remove all of it and blank off the intake manifold port and then plug the exhaust manifold pipe's hole with a bolt and washers? It really cleans up the area. From a thread: "The big pipe you mention is what conveys exhaust gases to the EGR - pretty sure all of our cars have this. You can block it with a 20x1.50mm bolt at the manifold (frequently a transmission filler plug)"
4. Your aircleaner really clears the hood? Interesting - I, too, used the phenolic spacer for the PCV hose, but had to Dremel away some of the hood's bracing and then later had to reduce the thickness of the filter element for clearance.
Tom M.

[KENDALL]

i did go with the holly regulator and got the breather hose set up with brass fittings today
and pcv valve too. the egr removal is next wondering how to hook up charcoal canister
do i need it? well ill search the site more.
thanks

[ARCHINSTL]

Well, I realize there are several schools of thought on keeping the canister hooked up. Frankly, I thought it needed input from the "computer" and other things to work. So - while I left it in place, I just vented the hose to the atmosphere. I've noted no gassy smells and everything has been working OK for nearly three years now. I actually have absolutely no idea if it does anything now - and since MO no longer emission tests pre-'96 cars, I don't worry about it.

Mentioning your PCV tube - did you leave it hooked to the phenolic plate as in your photo or did you move it to ___?

And - your hood still has clearance as I asked? Interesting - it seems like no one but moi has had to do the Dremelling and filter reduction. Perhaps related to my new motor mounts installed back in 2006 raising the motor to OE height?

Incidentally, when I used a piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet for the EGR-to-manifold port, I traced around the flange of the EGR valve itself to the sheet. I also used 2 EGR gaskets and some sealer when I mounted it to the manifold. I would have followed splatterdog's rather elegant plate-with-PCV-barb, but I figgered I needed the heat supplied by the phenolic plate durng MO's Winters; of course, he does not exactly live in a temperate zone and his still works just fine...

Again - those pix are, literally, sweeping!
Tom M.

[KENDALL]

thanks tom
the camera is new and quite good for a small Kodak ez share
we were at the beach this wekend and must have got sand in it cause the auto focus isnt so good now
well i kept the pcv hose to spacer like factory and breather to air filter
I am only using the bicycle bolt to keep bell crank on right now so i have to either put a locking fastner in there
or tack weld it so it cant slip the bolt we sell at my work if anybody needs them (retail)
http://biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=34 ... =JW-NZ1262 i may have used a 5mm one cant remember
but the bolt allowed assembly and testing with out much problem now its just tight without anything else and works fine but does need a back up bolt or tack weld for longevity.
i have not done timing yet you recommend 10btdc ?
i have done timing advanced from manifold and from ported (carb) both work
a buddy said always do ported so the centrifical advance works better but a post here had a good argument linked
from another web site saying manifold vacuum was better. what do you recommend? i guess i have factory timing now
but dont have the light to verify.
about the the catalytic converter does this engine need some back pressure for low end torque like my 22re
or could i see mpg improvements with out it?
kendall

[ARCHINSTL]

KENDALL -
Take a look back at the series of photos in my link above; I drilled a small hole in the Weber piece and the OE bellcrank and used a skinny bolt to lock it in place, as I don't have access to a welder.
You will be pleased to know it is a derailleur limiting bolt - Hey! us bike dweebs never throw anything away!

I've tried manifold and carb port vac sources and, frankly, never noticed any difference. I even tried both hooked to the dist. I settled on the carb port.

The 10 ° advance many have recommended has worked well for me - did this last year when I recalibrated the Weber's mixture and idle. You will need a light, though (some have done it by ear/feel, but I ain't that sensitive).

I have no advice on the cat conv - mine is still hooked up and until I replace the whole exhaust when the current one dies, I will not address that. I think others have run without, but just do not recall for sure.
Tom M.

[tercel4wdrules]

about the the catalytic converter does this engine need some back pressure for low end torque like my 22re
or could i see mpg improvements with out it?
kendall

10° of base timing advance would be ideal, it seems like this would be the best setting to use if everything else is tuned correctly. You won't really notice any difference in MPG without the catalytic converter or any loss of low-end torque (at least this is my experience). I would rather have the cat converter in place though. You will see gains if you switch to a 2" exhaust, although they will be modest. I would make sure everything else is running properly as well.

[Petros]

There is no such thing as "good back pressure". There is a lot of false shade tree wisdom that passes around about exhaust back pressure because of a lot of ignorance. A properly designed exhaust system operates in a very complex way.

There is NO ENGINE that make more power with back pressure. No way no how, it can not happen.

This silly myth gets circulated because backyard mechanics notice that they can get noticeably more power out of an engine with a header or manifold in place instead of straight short pipes (as in typical Hot Rod installations). So they wrongly conclude that the engine "likes" or needs back pressure to make more HP. What they do not know is a well designed manifold or header will actually have pressures below atmospheric pressure (I.e. a vacuum) at the exhaust valve because of the dynamic nature of high speed pulses of exhaust gasses moving down the header, creating harmonics in the system that can actually create a vacuum.

So you will reduce your back pressure and improve your power out put and economy without the converter, however it will get more noisy and you will need a better muffler anyway. Since aftermarket converters are not too costly anyway, and do not create a lot of back pressure, I am in the same dilemma when I finally get my 4age conversion installed, should I put in a cat or not.

Here it the bottom line: do not replace an other wise good exhaust system in the hopes of increasing power or economy, it is a waste of money, the gains are small compared to the cost. However, if your system is falling apart, or your cat is all bundled up, and you need one anyway, I would install a 2" or even 2-1/4" exhaust system to improve power and economy.

It is up to you if you want to buy an aftermarket cat for the system or not. I do not advocate putting out pollution, and you are breaking federal law not to have one (though there are no practical enforcement processes for a car this old), you likely will not get any legitimate muffler shop to not put one into your new system. A "home shop" or even an off road shop might be your best bet if you want to remove it.

AS for timing, you want to run the most timing advance without getting ping. Your altitude, available quality of fuel, air temperature, condition of the engine, etc. will affect the timing. 10 degrees is a good place to start (remove the vac advance line on the dis and plug it when you set it), you can run more if you do not get any ping or crackling on hard acceleration. You can also set it by trial and error by ear, advance it a little at a time, do a hard acceleration, when you get noticable ping, back it off a bit and leave it there.

[KENDALL]

thanks for the reply’s
the exaust system seems to be good but the muffler has some blowby inside so its a bit louder but no leaks
seems like the inside is not fully attached to the walls as i can squeeze it and reduce noise its not ricer loud
and looks brand new i have some receipts from muffler shop from prev. owner so ill se if it had a warranty
I had removed the cat on my toyota pickup and noticed some improvement then the muffler blew up
and drove all loud a few weeks then got a muffler put on it seemed to improve low rpm performance
but that is not scientifically confirmed so maybe its a bunch of fart gas the good back pressure sales technique
at muffler shop they also talked me into a smaller muffler than i had on there but larger inside diameter so who knows if there is less or more back pressure on there. i do work under a tree now that i can drive to one.
i just got a thermostat from dealer (oem) that i"l do this weekend if i dont recreate with the famly
did read some post about hand flattening it and rtv stuff etc. the car cools it self at night going down hill so cold it don’t want to idle.

[Jack in Norfolk]

Car looks great! This is my favorite two tone combo. It seems to be among the most rare as well (at least in this part of the world). I think the only one I see less of is the Black and grey combo. Anyway, great looking car!