Lower engine brace

[Bluebelles Mom]

OK guys,

I got the 4 nuts off without any damage to anything. The brace moves a little but seems to be held up by some sort of suspension/steering bar that is sort of bow shaped and attached to the lower portion of the wheel assembly. Does that bar need to be removed and are there any tips or tricks to it?

[Petros]

Good for you! I think the "bar" you are talking about is the front anti-sway bar (one peices goes from the lower control arm on one wheel, across the font of the car, and than to the other control arm). This can probably stay attached, but you will have to wrestle the cross member down. But I do not think that is what is holding it up.

The cross member also holds the rack and pinion steering, it has two tie rods, one to each wheel on each side. The tie-rods can stay attached to the wheels, and the rack can stay mounted on the cross member, but you will have to disconnect the steering shaft from the rack to allow it to come down. There is a pinch bolt on the steering shaft u-joint, spray the joint with penetrating oil, and remove the bolt all the way, it should slip off the spline shaft. You may also have to remove the power steering hydraulic lines (it will drain ATF out, so be ready), or you might be able to just remove the brackets holding the hydraulic lines to allow enough play in the lines to lower the cross member far enough to remove the pan. You should be able to lower it about 6 inches or more, once the steering shaft is disconnected and the hoses are loose.

[Bluebelles Mom]

Good news/bad news. I did remove the nuts holding the stabilizer and discovered the brackets to the tie rods. I have gotten the bolts out of the passenger side and the front bolt on the drivers side already. The rear one is difficult to get to and I am taking a break before I take a hammer to the car. After a hot cuppa and a cool down period I will go back out and try the steering shaft. Have I mentioned recently how much I hate getting greasy and having stuff fall into my eyes?

[ARCHINSTL]

NEVER get under a car without wearing safety glasses! ! !
Most will fit over regular specs.
I can't emphasize this enough! I speak from sad experience - and a visit to the ER...
Tom M.

[Bluebelles Mom]

I GOT IT!!!!! I don't know how I am going to get that steering shaft coupler thingy back on but the brace is loose. I started to remove the oil pan bolts but it stared to rain so maybe I am being told to kmock off for the day.

[Petros]

Good for you!

The spline shaft on the steering shaft u-joint (thingy) is actually easier to deal with than one would think. If you loosen the other end (on the steering wheel side) and get it off. than you reinstall the cross member, and put on the u-joint after everything else is bolted in place, the splines allow you to slide it up and down on the shaft enough so it just goes on fine. I have done it, much easier than it appears it will be.

Make sure the steering wheel is pointing straight ahead (I put bungee cords on it to hold it), and your wheels are pointing straight ahead too, or else your steering wheel will not be centered. If not, it is easier to remove the steering wheel and fix the off-center on the other end.

After you get the pan bolts off, and than pry off the pan, you will find the oil pick-up may not allow you to slide the pan out. You will need a 10 mm open end wrench to remove the two nuts at the front holding the oil pick-up, and one on each side (inside the pan). ONce that is free the pan and the oil pick-up will wiggle out a lot easier.

let us know what you find when you get the pan off, I suspect there will be large metal flakes that used to be your bearings in the pan.

BTW, when it comes time to replace the pan, clean off the old sealer and I would use a new gasket and you "glue" it into place with gasket sealer. Let it sit for a while, like overnight, and it will stay on the pan better when you wiggle into place.

[Bluebelles Mom]

Good for you!

The spline shaft on the steering shaft u-joint (thingy) is actually easier to deal with than one would think. If you loosen the other end (on the steering wheel side) and get it off. than you reinstall the cross member, and put on the u-joint after everything else is bolted in place, the splines allow you to slide it up and down on the shaft enough so it just goes on fine. I have done it, much easier than it appears it will be.

Make sure the steering wheel is pointing straight ahead (I put bungee cords on it to hold it), and your wheels are pointing straight ahead too, or else your steering wheel will not be centered. If not, it is easier to remove the steering wheel and fix the off-center on the other end.

After you get the pan bolts off, and than pry off the pan, you will find the oil pick-up may not allow you to slide the pan out. You will need a 10 mm open end wrench to remove the two nuts at the front holding the oil pick-up, and one on each side (inside the pan). ONce that is free the pan and the oil pick-up will wiggle out a lot easier.

let us know what you find when you get the pan off, I suspect there will be large metal flakes that used to be your bearings in the pan.

BTW, when it comes time to replace the pan, clean off the old sealer and I would use a new gasket and you "glue" it into place with gasket sealer. Let it sit for a while, like overnight, and it will stay on the pan better when you wiggle into place.

OK..I will do that although it will delay getting her back on the road for a few more days. Sigh.

[Petros]

OK..I will do that although it will delay getting her back on the road for a few more days. Sigh.

you do not have to do it at all if you do not want to. It just seems to me there is always the risk of messing up the seal at the oil pan, and you will not know it until after it is all together. Using just sealant without the gasket can also work, but it more difficult to install without messing up the fresh sealant. Or you can stick the gasket on and let it cure for only an hour, it might slide around some, but as long as you do not damage it and get it positioned before you tighten it down it should be okay.

[Bluebelles Mom]

No, you're right. I don't want to have to go thru this again so a new gasket and sealant is the safe way to do it. I'll try to have the bearings done by the weekend, pick up the gasket and sealant Sunday and hopefully have it all back together by Monday or Tuesday. Considering it's supposed to rain tomorrow and I am working my volunteer gig for most of Thurs I will only have a few days to finish up the repairs before the reassemble.

[Highlander]

Don't forget to NOT overtighten the pan bolts-that'll squish the pan gasket out and result in another leak. I tightened mine to where the pan gasket JUST starts to bulge a little, I'm not sure if you can see this when its in the car or not, my engine was on a stand.

[Bluebelles Mom]

Yes, every other bolt has required a 2 ft cheater pipe to break loose. The pan bolt I took off was easy with just my ratchet.

[Petros]

you should order a gasket ASAP, few repair shops stock them for a car this old, and it may take a few days to come in. This way it will be ready for you when you need it.

The oil pan bolts have a torque spec in the FSM, but if you get them that tight it will almost certainly damage the gasket. I just snug them down and watch the sealant and gasket squeeze out of the joint, like Highlander says. You should be able to see enough of it to do it this way. You use "calibrated" hand tight, match the force it takes to tighten them by hand so they all the same feel.

[Bluebelles Mom]

you should order a gasket ASAP, few repair shops stock them for a car this old, and it may take a few days to come in. This way it will be ready for you when you need it.

The oil pan bolts have a torque spec in the FSM, but if you get them that tight it will almost certainly damage the gasket. I just snug them down and watch the sealant and gasket squeeze out of the joint, like Highlander says. You should be able to see enough of it to do it this way. You use "calibrated" hand tight, match the force it takes to tighten them by hand so they all the same feel.

I will go order one tomorrow. I am so close to having the pan off. Maybe a couple more bolts. The weather keeps driving me back inside. There were a few extra things that needed to be removed....the side engine brackets were blocking access to the pan bolts so they had to go.

I am getting there