Oil drain plug gasket.

[xirdneh]

For the last 15 years or so, for every oil change I have been making a gasket for the oil plug and gooping it up with non-hardening gasket maker before reinstalling it.
It does not leak but I have to make a new gasket every oil change.
Recently I bought some genuine oil plug gaskets at the local parts store thinking I could end the above practice.
The gasket was a plastic looking and feeling "o" ring that seemed kind of hard but I tried it anyway.
The first one I installed leaked because it cracked. I must have over tightened.
The second try held for a few weeks but began to leak. Tightening it some more made it leak more. It was not cracked.
So now I'm back to making gaskets again.
If I had a lathe I would cut a groove in the plug and install a rubber "o" ring.
Might try that on the drill press.

[Petros]

It seems to me a copper gasket like the one on the brake lines (where they meet the caliper) would work better, but I would still install the non-hardening gasket maker with it. The copper ones you can use over and over, another car I once owned used a copper gasket on the oil drain plug, and I never replaced it (I do not know if it was OE or if the previous owner installed it).

Plastic under pressure in contact with oil seems like a bad idea. An o-ring is not a bad idea, but you can not put a lot of pressure on it, and you likely would have to replace it every time.

[ARCHINSTL]

Boy - I feel like I've been doing something wrong...I've always used those light blue gaskets available at every parts store (I think) for about 75+/- cents or so. I've never had any leaking problem on any vehicle - same for rear axles.
Tom M.

[splatterdog]

If you have an 83-84 engine, the oil pan was designed to wear out. They had good intentions though. In order to get a full drain there is a small square channel between the pan and the welded drain plug nut inside.It was to prevent the height of the nut from keeping a small amount of oil in the bottom of the pan during a change. After decades of oil changes, the pan sheet metal collapses leaving a low spot at the square channel.

On my 84 I had to tighten a large thick washer down with the drain plug and then weld it all the way around to the pan. This made a new seat for the plug. Pain in the butt, but worked.

[dlb]

holy doodle. i've never paid attention to drain plug gaskets, ever. i've never checked to see if any vehicle had one so if it was there then i probably re-used it and if it wasn't there, then i didn't. i've never had much problems with oil leaks but i will look into this.

[xirdneh]

It seems to me a copper gasket like the one on the brake lines (where they meet the caliper) would work better, but I would still install the non-hardening gasket maker with it. The copper ones you can use over and over,

An o-ring is not a bad idea, but you can not put a lot of pressure on it, and you likely would have to replace it every time.

i like the copper gasket idea
i will be trying to find one that fits
i think the "o" ring would work if a groove was cut in the plug to contain 2/3 of the "o" ring thickness

[MorToy]

Johnny-come-lately here, but splatterdog nailed exactly what I have going on with my '83. I just diagnosed it this weekend. That darn little notch, or channel, in the thread inside creates a soft spot. After years of oil changes it has slightly caved in, causing a slight oil drip. I am glad to hear I was not the only one busting out the of tube of permatex with an oil change.

[takza]

I found some alum ones at the parts store...otherwise with no gasket you get leaks or overtighten and strip the threads.

[rer233]

toyota originally used a fiber drain plug gasket. i keep a few of the the big and small ones on hand (i have both early and late pans on my cars.) i put a little permatex ultra black rtv on the gasket before installation and have never had a leakage problem (i reuse them until they split at which time i replace them.) i'll post part #s and prices soon. hope this helps.