'84 SR5 in Marysville WA $550 needs work

[Petros]

Not mine, this is relisted to the Seattle CL. Sounds like it has piston slap, so it needs to be overboared with new pistons/rings or to have the low end replaced. Looks like a nice looking car.

ad reads:

When I bought this car, I knew it had a bad cylinder head. I could hear the top end clicking from a mile away. What I couldn't hear was the quiet but ominous clatter in the engine block....

The Good:
Car still runs and drives well, after I replaced the bad head. It has a 6-speed manual transmission, with a granny low 1st gear that is only available in 4WD. Recent major tuneup included head replacement with new valve stem seals, all new top-end gaskets, water hoses, and vacuum lines; a new water pump, thermostat, timing and fan belts, and a lower mileage carburetor. It also has new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Mileage is just over 216,000. The body and interior are in decent shape for its age, and everything works. I just don't have the time or the tools to replace the bottom end. Price listed above is with the stock steel 13" wheels. If you want the aluminum 14" wheels in the picture, price is $725.

The Bad:
The bottom end clatters and it smokes intermittently.

The Ugly:
Yes, it is.





http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/2201043176.html

[deejay1272]

Sounds like a good deal to me for $550. Someone should jump on this!

[toughtercel]

THINKING < THINKING < THINKING

[mytercel]

Looks rust free. If I were closer, I'd snag it! Stuff in another engine and go!

[toughtercel]

I made an appointment to see the car but owner said I have to wait till Saturday because someone else going to see the car , any of you going see the car .

[arbskynxnex]

I was the guy who had the saturday appt. I've been Tercelless for 5 years and jonesing for one. I passed on it though, because one of the balljoints was going bad and my dad and I swore we'd never change one again. Here's the condition if anyone's interested. Its got some rust on it, about a silver dollar patch on right front wheel well and about a nickel sized patch by the gas cap, both are surface rust and could be sanded up pretty easily. There's a large bit of rust by the battery box, its just going past the stage of surface rust, but sanding can still get rid of it. It burns oil and has the knock, but it ran great with plenty of power for the 3A, the transmission felt real good, shifted into all gears and 4wd just fine. It needs the front rotors turned, it shimmied a bit with hard braking. It might need new front struts, it bottomed out on the concrete lip when I pulled into the driveway, but that could just be because I'm fat. The interior is pretty good, no tears in anything I saw. There was a bunch of spare engine parts in the back, old head, carb etc, too. He put on new belts, water pump, dist cap, etc. The head looked professionally rebuilt. The guy was real nice to deal with and I would have bought it except 6 years from the last ball joint I replaced, I still don't want to touch another one.

[dlb]

why do you hate ball joints so much? with either a puller, pickle fork, or a hammer, i don't find they're usually much of a problem.

it bottomed out on the concrete lip when I pulled into the driveway, but that could just be because I'm fat.

this is probably the best line i've ever read on this forum. hilarious.

[arbskynxnex]

why do you hate ball joints so much? with either a puller, pickle fork, or a hammer, i don't find they're usually much of a problem.

it bottomed out on the concrete lip when I pulled into the driveway, but that could just be because I'm fat.

this is probably the best line i've ever read on this forum. hilarious.

I guess your car didn't have the character building option installed. It took my dad and I 3 days to change the ball joints on the last tercel I owned. I had a tuning fork puller that didn't work, so we got a front end puller kit with real ball joint pullers early on. We broke the solid metal arm on the puller, switched to the pitman arm puller, had the same thing happen. Took the kit back, got a new one, the arms held but the bolts stripped from tightening so much without any give. This is while we were hitting it with penetrating oil and a blow torch. We had broke all the kits that shucks had in stock so we had to rent a ball joint puller from another store, broke it too and almost put my eye out. We hit it with hammers, more fire, more penetrating oil, a jack, our fists and finally, finally with another ball joint puller it came out... and broke the puller. Then it was onto the other side. We were close to never talking to each other again by the time they were done. It was as fun and easy as putting the transmission in with a broken wrist.

Thanks, I'm glad that went over well. But in all seriousness, it could be...

[toughtercel]

WoW , that a lots tought work and ding ,ding ,problem , they are hard to loosen them , it just take time , I replace them several time so far , they don't last long once going OFF-ROADING.
OHH and thank you for information about this car .

[rer233]

can't believe anyone would pass up a clean t4wd for a bad balljoint! bring it to me- i' swap it out in 20 mins! all you have to do is put a load on the tapered pin and smack the control arm with a hammer. just wish i could find a car like that for sale here in MD. I NEED A CLEAN RUST- FREE BODY.

[toughtercel]

The seller E-mail me this morning that it is SOLD