WTF with my FRONT MAIN SEAL!!!!

[Krunk]

Ok, so I figured out that auto zone gave me the wrong PVC valve, thus giving me to much crank case pressure and blowing my front main seal. I have since changed the timing belt, front cam seal, front main seal, distributor O-ring. I did all this, properly timed motor, cam and crank timed on TDC, distributor rotor in the right place. I start it up....all the oil in the car shoots out front main seal.....DAMN. Leaks way worse now. I guess I must have damaged the seal somehow, during reinstall, I just want to run it by everyone here and make sure something else is not causing the issue.

[takza]

I think you can push those in too far? No choice but to install another one. Just don't mess up the crank where the seal rides....

[keith]

As far as I know, a PCV valve is a PCV valve, the only differences are external, that is the hole they are designed to go into and the hose that attaches to them. Anyway, I don't think the front main seal is subjected to crankcase pressure. The oil pump is between it and the crankcase. It would only be subjected to oil pump pressure, and that should be shielded from the seal.

These things get torn with age and need to be replaced. Unfortunately, it means removing the timing belt and crankshaft gear. You can follow the FSM and remove the oil pump, but that is a PITA and unnecessary. Just pull the oil seal out with a pick or hook and push in the new one.

[Petros]

If you installed it with everything in place the seal is easy to damage. It could be in crooked, pushed in too far, or not far enough. I use a small plastic mallet to carefully tap it in by tapping around the seal to keep it even as it gets driven in. A long tube the right size can also be used, but easier to damage the seal in my experience.

Too much crack case pressure, caused by very worn piston rings (allows too much blow-by to pressurize the crank case), can push the new seal out and cause a massive leak. I have seen this before in several high milage engines, no good fix except to replace the rings. For now you have to reinstall the seal and "glue" it in place: clean it up real good, and the seal seat in the front of the oil pump, and "glue" it in with Form-a-gasket or similar sealant. Than to drive it again you must remove the dip stick to reduce the crank case pressure until you can replace the rings, or just replace the engine with a Japan crate engine (cheaper than rebuilding the stock one).

Good luck.

[Krunk]

rings are good, no smoke, not burning any oil, clear exhaust. I replaced the seal again, the original seal I put in had a bend from "tapping" it. Had it running rough the other day, someone messed with my idle set and fuel inlet screws I think, causing me problems, won't start now. I know cam and crank are on TDC, not 180 out, distributor might be off a tooth but tried both teeth and won't start either one, turn over fine, seems like its taking a lot to crank it at some points, im getting compression, compression check on all was over 130 psi and held. Got to be a timing issue or carb issue. Someone come to my rescue, ill buy you steak dinner or something. These carbs baffle me, and after doing the front main 3-4 times now to get it right I do not want to rip it all of yet another time.

[Krunk]

The PCV was the wrong one, changed it and oil seal is holding fine though I only had it running for about 20 minutes the other day, if there was a problem like before I would have dropped 2 quarts immediately, nothing leaks now.