Clutch Issues... HELP!

ludehawk · Post by **ludehawk** » Mon Dec 27, 2004 1:39 pm

Well... I'm a lonely 2wd on here... and there is no help to be found on the other boards... <_<

But... my tercel was 'snowed in' by 3 feet of snow... well I tried to get going and the clutch completely started smoking... BAD... so... new clutch... that's what i'm thinking.

I am pissed... I don't have the time nor place in this -20 weather to pull the tranny and replace the clutch... so that means $4-500

But I got to thinking... so I looked at the clutch pedal and it's not even down to the last 6 notches on the release sector (checkout CL-3 in the manual)
so... what does that mean? that the clutch isn't engaging?

to verify my question... I can put the car in any gear I want to... without it stalling with the engine running... with the clutch out. 5th gear is the hardest... and I have to push the clutch in to get it into gear.... but can release the clutch without it stalling.

Please tell me the clutch is just out of adjustment and isn't engaging...

please!!!

any advise??? anything to even be able to get it to the dealer? I'd think I could start the car in 1st and get it going at the least

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE hit me up on AIM or post ASAP...

AIM: ludehawk

20vtercel · Post by **20vtercel** » Mon Dec 27, 2004 3:03 pm

to be it sounds like the clutch pedal is worn or the disc is worn.

Before i went 4wd, i had the same problem. It ended up being that the nylon ratcheting sprocket had gone into safe mode (when your clutch is worn or pedal is worn, it keeps the clutch out!!). I went to the wrecker, and purchased a new pedal and I was back in buisness.

Don't know if this is similar to your situation nor do i have an answer as to why this happens, it just worked. It could be the disc in your case!!

Might as well get a new cable while you are there. Swap it out too cuz those can stretch.

ludehawk · Post by **ludehawk** » Mon Dec 27, 2004 5:15 pm

well the cable is fine... and it's only about 1/2 way up the sprocet gear... so I dunno... maybe the disc... it's just like the clutch isn't engaging at all

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 6:43 am

You do realize that the pawl & sector thing is adjustable? I'd do that way before I'd mess with the clutch.

ludehawk · Post by **ludehawk** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 4:51 pm

thanks in advance for telling me how to adjust it lol

it doesn't say anything in the manual....

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 11:14 pm

The clutch never fails completely all at once - it starts slipping and then gets worse. Even if it slips, you should be able to get some torque through it, enough to get it somewhere for repairs.

ludehawk · Post by **ludehawk** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 1:00 am

nope... it just completely went up in smoke haha
it slipped very rarely on the 1-2nd shift... other than that, fine.... but now it's completely gone.

what i'm looking for is directions on how to adjust the clutch pedal... er... engagement point maybe?

thanks

again, I can't get it anywhere... 'dropping' whatever is left of the clutch in 1st from near redline is the only thing that nets a bogging of the car.
any other gear and it just runs like it's idling lol

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 6:46 am

If you have the FSM from the front page.....while it isn't offically adjustable...the pedal height is....I have mine adjusted to where it has less than 6 notches left on the sector and it has worked fine for 30K miles.

Look for the "screw" with 2 nuts on it right at the sector wheel.

If you need to...you can shim the cable at the clutch arm using some coat hanger wire to effectively shorten it.

Still might have enough clutch left to get it to work.

ludehawk · Post by **ludehawk** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 7:51 am

alright... I just adjusted it all of the way 'up'

nothing! well... time for a tow and a new clutch

ludehawk · Post by **ludehawk** » Wed Jan 05, 2005 9:45 am

FYI - the pressure plate's 'feet' or whatever you want to call it collapsed on me...
there was no pressure on the clutch... that was the problem.... new clutch/pp/to and resurfaced flywheel later... the car is back on the road better than ever

2wagons · Post by **2wagons** » Wed Jan 05, 2005 12:44 pm

Hey Ludehawk,
Is the 2WD transverse of inline? Did you remove the engine? How long did it take - any words of wisdom, I need to do my clutch this winter-just waiting for it to get really cold-that way the wrenches and parts stick to my fingers and I donÃƒÂ¢Ã¢â€šÂ¬Ã¢â€žÂ¢t lose them

Gasoline Fumes · Post by **Gasoline Fumes** » Wed Jan 05, 2005 11:05 pm

2wagons wrote: ...just waiting for it to get really cold-that way the wrenches and parts stick to my fingers and I donÃƒÂ¢Ã¢â€šÂ¬Ã¢â€žÂ¢t lose them

Sort of off-topic, but Wells Lamont makes insulated mechanics gloves if you get tired of peeling tools off your hands.

Retroloc1 · Post by **Retroloc1** » Thu Jan 06, 2005 10:35 am

If you have to change the clutch be aware it's not that difficult.

When I had to do mine, I didn't have many tools, no lift, no jack, nothing.
I had to hang the engine to the first floor's window, hold it, push-roll the car back with my foot and it was done...
Just 1h 10min... Fantastic Tercel !