changin the cv joints

[gotama]

ive searched the forums on this only to have the previous page expire and have to start all over.. ..im looking for tools to have and what to expect..any suggestions would be appreciated..i have a 1984 tercel 4wd auto..THANKS IN ADVANCE!!

[deejay1272]

Generally, this is a pretty simple job. You'll need a few very large sockets (~27-29mm) to remove the spinner hub and you'll want to have a CV boot band clamp tightening tool, but otherwise, you probably have what you need in your standard tool/ratchet kit. I had to go out to buy a few new cotter pins as well, so account for that if you don't already have them.

The job is easy to do - just don't be shy when removing the lower control arm. Get something long (breaker bar for example) and stand on it while hitting the mount with a plastic mallet (I used a hammer, but did so carefully). After a few good wraps, you should be able to disconnect the lower arm...

(I also had to buy a snap ring remover tool because I didn't have one in my standard tool kit. There is a snap ring on the head of the new axle (on the tripod end) that you'll need to remove such that you can installs the rubber boot. This tool is a good ~$15 investment that will surely see future applications.)

[Petros]

you will need a large socket for the axle nut (22 or 24 mm or larger, I do not remember exactly), and a large breaker bar to get the axle nut off (after you remove the cotter pin). A lug wrench and jack to raise the car and remove the tire. A 12 mm socket to remove the two lower bolts holding on the ball joint, and than a pry bar to pop in the inner spline free from the trans. You will need to use the pry bar to free the lower ball joint free from its mount.

That will allow you to remove the axle by swinging the strut out far enough to clear the spline shaft in the hub. be careful not to damage the seal in the transmission.

If the axle nut is tough to break free soak it in ATF or penetrating oil, I also use the pry bar on the lug nuts to keep the hub and axle from turning when I use a cheater bar on the wrench. If the axle nut is really stuck on good, you can remove the whole strut with the axle still attached to the hub, and drive down to a repair shop where they can hit it with a large impact wrench. that is rarely necessary.

Good luck

[gotama]

thx a bunch guys..i have an automatic so if i keep it tilted the leackage should be minamal?..btw if you have any knowlege about this auto trans it would be appriciated..i havent been able to find out any thing on it..cant even get a pan gasket..the car stays in mexico full time and i only drive it 5 months a year..230K km's on it..would be nice to change the filter on it

[ARCHINSTL]

The axle nut is either 30 or 32mm (believe the former, but...). You will also need to rent a 1/2" torque wrench, as the nut is torqued to 137 ft-lbs when finished. Also get the proper seals for the trans. There are some pix of this.
Tom M.

[Petros]

I have found that I can get a "direct" torque value by hanging a weight on the end of my cheater pipe on the wrench handle. lever arm length is say 5 ft, therefore putting about 27.5 lbs on it will give you 137.5 ft-lbs at the nut. more accurate and you do not need to buy a large torque wrench for the few rare really large toque values on this car.

[gotama]

brought all the tools i need including a tourque wrench with a compressor for my air tools..thx for the info