REAR AXLE BEARINGS OE PART #s & SOURCING - ALSO VIEW OF RUST

[ARCHINSTL]

This is a list of the OE part numbers, as obtained from Butler Toy September 2010.

Ordered 0901 - Butler received from warehouse and shipped 0903 - received 0907 (Labor Day 0906).
OE part numbers, as obtained from Butler Toy September 2010.
The first price is regular OE retail - the second is Butler's. Note that all are quite competitive with AM parts and better than other Toy dealers.
04421-12011-77..Bearing kit...................57.73.....2 @ 43.30.....86.60
42454-20010......Bearing retainer LH.........8.46.....1 @..6.35.......6.35
42424-20010......Bearing retainer RH.........8.46.....1 @..6.35.......6.35
42185-52030......Gasket axle housing end...7.89......2 @..5.92.....11.84
42425-52030......Gasket to retainer..........2.43......2 @..1.82......3.64
94181-11000......Locking shoulder nuts......1.66......8 @..1.25.....10.00
90311-42055......Oil seal.......................5.56......2 @..4.17.......8.34
Total USD 133.12 for OE parts vs. USD 177.42 regular OE pricing.
Ordered 0901 - Butler received from warehouse and shipped 0903 - received 0907 (Labor Day 0906).

While irrelevant - the Toy replacement for the axle gasket is plastic instead of metal (I guess it discovered that steel rusts...) and the same plastic is used for the retainer gasket instead of fibre.
Tom M.

EDIT 03/20/2012 - I had transposed the numbers for the OE bearing retainers; they are now corrected.

A local garage charged $25 to remove/install the bearings and retainers.

I ordered all-new; I don't want to do again in ten years. The left seal had failed, causing a good-sized oil leak and the right bearing was quite loose internally and clunking and was solidly rusted * into the housing from the blocked retainer drain that Petros had warned about back in 2007. I would certainly recommend all heed his advice on cleaning these when doing a brake job - or even checking this before the Winter.
Tom M.

* If rusted in place, I would strongly suggest squirting a penetrant between the outer retainer and the brake backing plate and tapping the former with a hammer & punch to break it loose before using the slide hammer. Overly zealous yanks on the slide hammer could pull the retainer and backing plate as a unit, resulting in some brake line problems...

P.S. And "No," I receive no lollipops from Butler

► EDIT: ◄
Petros' thread on clogged drains - https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ake#p22409

[ARCHINSTL]

Following is a photo showing the blocked drain cutouts in the axle housing flange as referenced in the prior post. These, in concert with the blocked small circular hole in the backing plate caused the bearing to be virtually frozen in place and its retainer being rusted solidly to the backing plate - and also a lot of crud in the brakes. The oil seal, while in situ in the photo, was also extra hard to remove because of rust, even with the seal remover pick. I had to use fine emery cloth on the bearing seat, and even a light file and emery cloth on the pictured flange.
I sure wish I would have noticed the blocked hole when I did the brakes 4 years ago.

Incidentally - to install the gasket next to the flange, the brake line must be disconnected; I'm sure all who see the picture will realize this, but I thought I'd mention it anyway. In fact, disconnecting and plugging the line should always be done, as even the left, oil-soaked brake drum had a rusty metal gasket on the flange - so it had to be wirewheeled and scraped anyway - the gasket could not be slid in there without moving the backing plate.
Besides - it's probably time to do a brake fluid flush and bleed anyway.
Tom M.
.......................((left click on the photo to enlarge).

[takza]

So if one were just casually sauntering around their wagon on a nice sunny day...how would one...if one were so inclined...go about checking on and opening up these drain holes...without disassembling the whole shebang? A length of steel wire? Small drill bit?

[ARCHINSTL]

Remove the brake drum and look for the circular drain hole (about 1/4" diameter) in the backing plate that is just below the bearing retainer that secures the axle. This is kinda hard to do with the hub/axle in place, as they block it - you might need an inspection mirror. Sticking a pipe cleaner through should clear it/check it. I'd also hit it with a good blast of compressor air.
Then look on the the axle housing flange/backing plate joint and see if the above-referenced oval cutouts are free. This is, admittedly, pretty hard to do as they are only 2+ mm deep and kinda hard to find. Perhaps use a thin wire to poke around.
Frankly, though - if the backing plate's inside hole is blocked - there is a good chance the flange's oval holes are blocked as well. At that point, I'd remove the brake line, loosen the 4 14mm fixing nuts, and slightly move the backing plate to unclog them. Of course, the risk is that the gaskets will tear and you will have to get new ones.
But the alternative may be rusty, frozen bearings - and at least a lot of crud amongst the brake bits.
Tom M.

► ADDENDUM: ◄
Petros' thread on clogged drains - https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ake#p22409

[ARCHINSTL]

I just took a look at the removed bearings. Instead of being Made in Japan, as one would think - they are USA-made!
The company is BCA, which leads me to believe that these are not OE bearings. Anyone else ever notice this? I looked through the few PO records I have and find no note of this.
They are the correct bearings for the axle.
Guess someone else replaced the OEM before me, huh?
The OE bearingsI received from Butler are made in Japan.
Tom M.