rear glass

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barm
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My tercel:: 1983-4ac,1984,1987-4ac,1988-rebuilt 3ac

rear glass

Post by barm »

i need a rear heated hatch glass for a 4x4 wagon,,, a snow plow threw a rock :( i live close to denver colorado,, the year is 1988,, but i dont believe there is any difference

thanks

adam
danzo
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Re: rear glass

Post by danzo »

I have one for 15 bucks + shipping. Not sure if the defroster works but I can prolly test it somehow. I just don't know a way to ship it safely. Any ideas?
It's a scientific fact that in a twin engine aircraft, when one engine fails there is always enough power in the remaining engine to make it all the way to the crash site.
barm
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Re: rear glass

Post by barm »

yep,, texas is pretty far to ship glass,,, but let me check out some shipping options,,, also while checking around, i found out that there were two different versions of the heated glass,, a 100 watt, and a 180 watt heavy duty version,, by any chance do you know what version you have? if not,,, do you know if they were interchangeable? as for testing, i think a ohm meter would do the trick,, i would need it tested for sure,, for i live above 9000 feet, and just today we got another foot of snow,,, i think the rear defroster is turned on more then it is off i this car,, well,,,,, that was before a snow plow flung a rock threw it two weeks ago,,, lol ,,,, thanks for you response and help


adam
danzo
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Re: rear glass

Post by danzo »

How can tell what version (100 vs. 180 watt) it is? The Ohm test wouldn't tell you if all the "defrost lines" work. I plan to hook a battery up and feel for heat, or just use my pyrometer. Today I'm goin' yardin' so maybe I'll stop by an auto glass shop to see how they ship. BTW I will also include the useable seal if you want it.
It's a scientific fact that in a twin engine aircraft, when one engine fails there is always enough power in the remaining engine to make it all the way to the crash site.
4wdchico
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Re: rear glass

Post by 4wdchico »

danzo wrote:How can tell what version (100 vs. 180 watt) it is? The Ohm test wouldn't tell you if all the "defrost lines" work. I plan to hook a battery up and feel for heat, or just use my pyrometer. Today I'm goin' yardin' so maybe I'll stop by an auto glass shop to see how they ship. BTW I will also include the useable seal if you want it.
You will need two meters so you can measure the amps and volts at the same time. Multiplying amps x volts will give you watts.

Since 180watts/12 volts = 15 amps it would be good if the meter that you use to measure amps was rated at greater than 15A.
barm
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Re: rear glass

Post by barm »

i haven't had any time to check out shipping options,, i will this week,, i am more concerned about the tabs that the wires plug into,, i feel they could be easily knocked off during shipment,, do you have a ups store around you? some of them will pack for you,, please let me know when you have tested,,

thanks
adam
danzo
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Re: rear glass

Post by danzo »

4wdchico wrote:You will need two meters so you can measure the amps and volts at the same time. Multiplying amps x volts will give you watts.
Stupid question - so I run 12V through the defroster and measure the amps? Why would I need to measure the volts if I know it is 12V?

Adam - I can measure it tonight after "Lost". I'm sure there's a UPS shipper near me, I'll talk to them tomorrow if I have a 180 watter. But don't keep your fingers crossed, this window was most likely in a southern car. Do you still want it even if it's a 100 watter?
It's a scientific fact that in a twin engine aircraft, when one engine fails there is always enough power in the remaining engine to make it all the way to the crash site.
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Petros
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Re: rear glass

Post by Petros »

Dazo,

set the glass level and spray a mist of water droplets on the glass, than connect the 12v. The water drops will evaporate off the heated lines first. this way you can see if they all work, and if they are even. Better than using a meter. Use a spray bottle like Windex comes in with pure water.

Sometimes you can see a scratch or break in the heat element on the glass, someone made a kit to repair these when they are scratched, it was a kind of conductive glue you applied across the scratch. I need some from mine.
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barm
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My tercel:: 1983-4ac,1984,1987-4ac,1988-rebuilt 3ac

Re: rear glass

Post by barm »

yes,, i will take the 100w,, better than the duck tape window i currently have,, i will also pay for the seal,,i can use the extra in case i damage mine during install.

thanks
adam
4wdchico
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Re: rear glass

Post by 4wdchico »

danzo wrote:
4wdchico wrote:You will need two meters so you can measure the amps and volts at the same time. Multiplying amps x volts will give you watts.
Stupid question - so I run 12V through the defroster and measure the amps? Why would I need to measure the volts if I know it is 12V?
The short answer is that you don't know that the circuit is 12v under load. Way too many variables at play to be safe making that assumption.
danzo
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Re: rear glass

Post by danzo »

Adam - I went to UPS and they said it would be $65-70 to pack 'n' ship the glass. I did discover it has two dark blemishes (less than 1.5" long each) on the inside that appear to be burn marks (can send pics). I can't seem to get them off with a razor, so you don't need to pay me for the glass. I got it almost free anyway. I couldn't measure the wattage since my multimeters can only carry 10 amps. Your call if you still want it.
It's a scientific fact that in a twin engine aircraft, when one engine fails there is always enough power in the remaining engine to make it all the way to the crash site.
barm
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Posts: 40
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:23 pm
My tercel:: 1983-4ac,1984,1987-4ac,1988-rebuilt 3ac

Re: rear glass

Post by barm »

sure,, send pics,, do you think the defroster is damage by the burns? send me your phone number by email,, thanks
danzo
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My tercel:: '86 SR5 6 speed
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Re: rear glass

Post by danzo »

Send me your email via PM. I can't attach a pic through the forum email.
It's a scientific fact that in a twin engine aircraft, when one engine fails there is always enough power in the remaining engine to make it all the way to the crash site.
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