3 separate questions...

[Tercel_jon]

First off, thanks for helping me out with the wheel bearing guys. Now that Im waiting for it to get here Ive been pondering a couple things...

Does anybody here tow a trailer with their T4wd? And is it a good idea? Biggest one I would be pulling would be a 6x10. Im concerned about stressing the body/frame...and also attachment points for the hitch...

I saw a Japanese add for the T4wd that had the mirrors up on the front fenders and a rear wiper...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48K446X0GsU question is, anyone know where to get some mirrors like that? And was the rear windshield wiper an option here in the US?

Last question...I did the math the other day and Im only getting 20.6 mpg...I know the wheel bearing has a part in that...but Im also thinking a vacuum leak somewhere. Correct me if Im wrong but arent i supposed to be getting around 30ish? Im contemplating getting some thin sheet metal and smoothing out the bottom of the car...kinda like on a 60's Corvair and on a old bug. Granted they are rear engine cars but I think flattening the underside will give me a substantial increase in mpg. What do yall think?

[xirdneh]

tire pressure?
has your carb been cleaned or rebuilt? (does current carb idle correctly, low without killing motor)
brakes dragging?

[danzo]

I would think the binding constraint for towing with a T4wd is the relatively weak drivetrain, not the chassis. I think our vehicles are rated to tow about the weight of the average skateboarder. I would avoid the extra wear 'n' tear if you have another tow vehicle available.

Are you measuring your mpg accurately? Be sure to take a large enough sample (at least one tankful) of gas to calculate. You should get around 30 in combo/highway driving with a conservative right foot. I know the sheet metal bottoms are all the go in Formula 1, but keep in mind those dudes drive a smidge faster than us. I don't think you'd see any benefit, but then again I'm not one of those NASA matress-designing engineers.

[Jarf]

I had a hitch on my previous T4. Worked fine and saved my a$$ moving a couple of times but not the sort of thing you want to do on a daily basis. It would be okay for a small utility trailer that is lightly loaded.
The mirrors you saw are a Japanese Domestic Market requirement. They are not available over here but am sure you could source something if you really wanted to.
They require a helper for aiming but do help to eliminate the blind-spot
Rear engined cars have nothing to impede the floorpan, hence the flat floor. Front engine cars have way too much stuff in the way to reasonably smooth the undersides, after-the-fact that is.
While you could make up something, it would have to be braced and vented and be able to go around things like exhausts and live-axles. By the time you were done, the added weight would more than offset any gain, imagined or real.
If you fix the current problems you have, you will find the mileage to be pleasantly surprising.
It will require that you work your way through and repair problems as you come across them.
A bad wheel bearing will have a huge effect on mpg, as will a messed up carb, dragging brakes, mal-adjusted handbrake, low tire pressure/poor tire condition, amount of weight in the car ....
Then driving style will have an effect as will ambient temperature/weather conditions.

In the summer, on dry highways with long trips I can get 40mpg (imp) but in the winter, around town with snow tires and 4wd engaged most of the time it can often be closer to 25mpg(imp).
I generally try not to pay too much attention to actual MPG. ONLY if there is a DRASTIC (unexplainable) change.

As for tracking your mileage the only way to do so accurately is to fill the tank FULL and record your mileage, when it is time to refuel, fill the tank to the SAME level as the last fill, record the volume and current mileage. Calculate the distance travelled and divide away.
Do this 3x and average your results.

[Tercel_jon]

WOW guys. Thanks for the good answers!

I didnt think about the weight that would be added by the sheet metal so thanks for that. I knew it be a challenge with all the stuff hanging down but with the added material that I would need to go around them, I can see what you mean with the weight.

So super small trailer only, Im alright with that. Im only looking for something to haul a single lawnmower on once in a while. I hauled a 1971 Ford LT75 in the back with the seats down, had to take the tires off but it fit. Could definitely feel the weight...but it handled much better than empty.

About the lack of mileage...I completely forgot that 4wd sucks down gas! I feel stupid for forgetting that...but in my defense it is my first 4wd. It snowed here and I spent an entire day running around being very light on the throttle cause the roads were iced over. Was also in 4wd the entire time. Now Im not so worried. Im planning on cleaning the carb today and I am a stickler about tire pressure. Before I leave town for anything...(its a small town so i leave quite often) I always check my tire pressure.

Its a shame about the mirrors...they look really cool. Ill keep my eyes out for some.

once again thanks for the quick and informative responses guys.

[xirdneh]

i towed a small flatbed trailer with a rowboat and some camp gear in it.(abt 500 lbs total)
it was 600 mile round trip over and back on a mountain pass
also drove up and down a steep gravel road in the woods
i had to be carefull about braking, it was definately a problem
had to be in extra low 4wd gear going down steep moountain dirt road to assist braking
also had to be in extra low for going up the steep dirt hill because of lack of power in 1st gear
braking was the main issue

[Petros]

A small trailer would be fine, but I would recommend the brake upgrade I did over in the repair guild section if you do it regularly. the Factory front brakes are too light weight and will warp easy.

Best first find out why you get such poor economy before you try to reduce aerodynamic drag. If you mostly drive at lower speeds there is not a lot to be gained with aero improvements. Set the timing at 10 deg before TDC, make sure you have no vac leaks and the carb is working properly, you should get about 26-7 mpg city driving and about 30 or more hwy. I noticed on my road trip the economy is very sensitive to speed, I would get about 30 mpg at 75 mph ave, and only about 25 at 85 mph ave (typical hwy speed in a lot of western states).

BTW, the difference in Japan OEM mirrors and North American mirrors is government laws about mirror placement. YOu can mount the far forward mirrors and it changes you view of the lane next to you, but I would think they would be vulnerable to damage way out there. It would likely not be legal either, but I doubt you would ever get called out on that.

Good luck.

[takza]

Those mirrors out on the fenders were standard for British roadsters/cars at one time I think....in the '50s.

[Jarf]

Petros - good point about the legality on the fixed mirrors and the likelihood of damage.
Back in the early 90's we would install fixed mount leapers on the hood of Jaguars, everybody wanted one but they were illegal, which of course is why they did not come with them from the factory.
Interestingly enough with the introduction of the 95 XJ6 a break-away leaper was fitted at the factory.

The theory being that if you ran down a pedestrian, they would not be impaled by the hood ornament.

I don't really have a problem with injuring a dead person, but obviously the Gov't knows better.