Oil Light Concern

[tercelwill]

My 85 with 193k miles on it has had this issue since i let it sit for around four months.

During cranking the oil light is on steady but it shuts off about a second after start up.

The oil level is at the full mark and i've done regular oil and filter changes since i've had it. I confess that when i got it back on the road again i drove around for a few days with the same nasty oil that needed to be changed when i parked it.

Some guy at autozone said this is normal. it happens with my 86 camry with 206k on it but i've never had the experince with a newer car.

My question is the cranking speed not enough to build oil pressure in an engine of this milage. Is my oil pump on it's last legs or could a sludged up pickup be the culprit.

or is this normal

Haven't found an answer yet anywhere, any advice?

[danzo]

This does sound normal, though I don't have a T4WD owner's manual handy. I think my car does it too, as most other cars do. It's a feature that lets you know the oil pressure light is working. If it stays on significantly after start up then you have problems.

[splatterdog]

Unless you have a long crank time, the light takes a second or two to shut off

Oil pressure switches can go bad too, without being leakers. My 84's original had an internal leak that simulated low pressure. The case is sealed so well that they won't typically leak out like most others. The oil would work past the spring loaded diagphram causing an equalization and any drop in pressure would easily be overcome by the spring tension of the sender.

Just an idea.

Aftermarket ones are not nearly as good, surprise surprise. Been thru 2 napa ones so far. OE for me next time.....

Also maybe try a better filter if you are using cheapies. Could be having drain back isues and the filter has to reprime every time.

[Petros]

this sounds normal to me too. You might verifiy if the oil filter you are using has an anti-drain back feature, and give the engine crankcase the Marval Mystery oil, or Seafoam, treatment, that will clean out any slug or build-up.

[ARCHINSTL]

I echo the others. I thought I had a similar problem and even went so far as to buy a new sending unit - until I figgered out it was simply an idle with the OE carb that was set too low...
Understand, I was new to T4WDs at the time...
Tom M.

[4wdchico]

A good oil filter will usually have a far superior orange silicone rubber anti-drain back valve instead of a plain rubber black one. The rubber of the valve can be seen thru the smaller holes that surround the larger hole that has the screw on threads.

[sdoan]

My 85 with 193k miles on it has had this issue since i let it sit for around four months.

During cranking the oil light is on steady but it shuts off about a second after start up.

or is this normal?

This sounds normal. When you shut off the engine hot, the hot, thin oil will drain back down and out of the oil passages - some oil probably drains past the gears in the pump, some probably drains out of the pressurized rocker shaft from under the rockers, some probably drains out from between the rod bearings and crankshaft, and if there is any hydraulic head in the oil passages, eventually the oil will migrate through.

Normally the amount of oil that drains out is very slight and a film of oil remains in all these places, and that film protects the bearings when you restart. When you hit the starter the oil pump turns and starts pushing oil back into all those places it drained from. If a lot drained away - like a failed anti-drainback valve in the oil filter - it will take more time to get oil pressure.

Here is a little test. Compare how long it takes to pump up oil pressure when starting after sitting several hours compared to shutting it off and restarting within a minute. You will probably find that the oil pressure light goes out almost immediately if it is a quick restart because the oil has had no time to drain out.

Another test you can do is to disconnect the green plug between the ignition distributor and wiring harness to prevent the car from starting. If you then key the starter the engine will spin building oil pressure and the light will go out. Then release the key (still on position). The oil light will remain off for a second or two until the oil pressure drops in the passages and the light will come on.

I have found that the anti-drainback valves in the oil filters don't work consistently. Most of the time when changing the oil filter it is nearly empty which suggests to me that the valve is letting oil drain out.

When doing an oil change I always fill the filter with oil before putting it on (it spills a little oil, but I'd rather not spin the engine with no oil pressure for the time it would take the oil pump to refill it). And I disconnect the distributor and crank the engine on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out.

Another thing that might make a difference is the weight of oil you are running. I've started running a slightly more viscous oil simply because the clearance between the bearings is probably a little greater than new. The recommended oil for new Tercels was 10w40 or 20w-50 depending on temperature and I've been running 15w40 all year (But I live in a mild climate.). The base viscosity of 15w is right between the recommended values and it's available in gallon jugs, and it may build oil pressure a little more quickly.

Cheers

[hberdan]

I echo the others, this is normal on all the Tercels I've owned. The light goes out after cranking. If it does not go out a few seconds after starting up, stays on, or comes on while driving, then you need to investigate. Otherwise, relax.

[blade]

ya my car dose that all of the time .

[keith]

There are two sizes of oil filters that fit this engine. If you go to a discount store (wallyworld) the book will list the smaller filter. If you are like me, you always use the larger one. It does take longer for oil pressure to build up in the larger one and it does not build up as much pressure. If you are using the larger filter, you might want to switch to the smaller one.

If you crank long enough, the oil light will eventually go out, but normally it won't because the engine starts too quickly. I don't think you have a problem.

[tercelwill]

Thanks everyone. Another thing off my mind. I still don't like seeing the light though. It will stay on no matter how long I crank and the light behaves the same whether the engine is starting dead cold or just off the highway hot.

I always use Purolater oil filters and 10w-40 Penzoil. I've heard that purolater are the best or at least the best at your local auto parts store.

I'm thinking of trying a smaller oil filter i have the big one on now. I remember when i did the first oil change the store book gave me the tiny one for my 85. I ended having to go back to the store and getting the filter for the 84. I figured my engine block was a left over from the previous model year or i wanted to use the same size that was on it or something, it was a while ago.

[takza]

Use a Mustang filter?


viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2474

[Jarf]

During the reign of my 1st Tercel, I was the parts manager at a Suzy dealership. Fram lists the same filter for both applications.
"Why waste $8 for a toyo filter when I have thousands of Suzy's for under $3?"

3 oil changes and a bottom end later, I went back to paying toyota for OEM filters.
I would not recommend using ANYTHING that was not specifically designed for that spot.

That non-drain valve is absolutely critical, more so if you live in a cold climate. Most A/M filters are not built to the same quality. I too used to look for the the larger capacity filters but in the end, whether it holds 3.7L or 3.9L isn't going to make any real difference.
For the record, since that eng overhaul on the first car, I have logged nearly 300km's on tercel engines without issue, that is with the tiny OEM filter, quality oil (10w40) and regular changes (8-10km (4500-6000 miles)) and have never had an issue since.

For the record, on the current car that now has 370km's on it and the light is usually out before/when the engine starts.

[ARCHINSTL]

I've been using the Mobil 1 filter for some years on both vehicles (and Valvoline 10W-40 for high mileage engines) and have been satisfied - at least nothing's happened and minor oil leaks have stopped.
The Mobil filter has an anti-drain valve, so that is desirable - these filters ain't cheap/currently around $12-14. BTW, even the cheapie Fram/STP filters have the valve - and even the AZ house brand at $2.49 has the valve...
But - what is a "high-capacity" filter? Bigger than the Mobil? It's not a huge filter and looks about the same size as most other filters recommended for our engines.
Tom M.

[keith]

During the reign of my 1st Tercel, I was the parts manager at a Suzy dealership. Fram lists the same filter for both applications.
"Why waste $8 for a toyo filter when I have thousands of Suzy's for under $3?"

3 oil changes and a bottom end later, I went back to paying toyota for OEM filters.
I would not recommend using ANYTHING that was not specifically designed for that spot.

That oil filter did not cause you to lose the bottom end. Oil filters have very little to do in engines made since 1975 (Cal) or 77 (Fed). BTW, the SuperTech filters at wallyworld are actually better than Mobil One filters and equal to Purolator Gold.