California vs Not California 3AC exhaust systems

[rapidoxidationman]

I need to replace the exhaust system on my '88 SR5. The hood sticker says it is the california emissions model and that takes a different system from the cat back than the non-california model... Does anyone know what those differences are? I've got both setups available for a little over $100 shipped (bolt on cat back systems) from MacAutoParts.com, but I'm curious what the differences are. I think the engine has been replaced some time ago and I'm not sure the california emissions were kept.

Anyone?

[keith]

The difference is in the Catalytic Converter used. The Catalytic Converter used in the California version is 3" shorter and does not have an air intake vent in it. As a result, the California exhaust system has to be 3" longer. When I got a new "muffler" for the 86 we had, I could only get the Federal version. Iwent to a local muffler shop and had a 3" extension made for me, cost me $20, but I did not want to have a 3" extension welded into the pipe as had been done with the previous muffler.

[rapidoxidationman]

That is exactly the answer I was hoping to get. I had pulled an exhaust off a junker '83 Tercel and guess what: the exhaust pipe was about 3" too short and the cat had an air intake on it.

I'll call Mac Monday and have 'em ship me the system made for the california model. The only downside is that they have a one piece system which is too long to ship; they'll have to cut it and give me a coupler to put it back together. No biggie.


Thanks!
ROM

[Jarf]

Cutting the exhaust just to ship it sounds extreme. Factory unit is still available for not much more money, is also 1-piece and comes with all the heatshields in place
and the hangers in all the right places, but the dealer will not cut it just to ship it, mine doesn't even charge me shipping even for next day stuff, then again I do buy a lot of parts there, don't know how the US dealer network is but might be worth making the phone call.

[keith]

I'm not sure what the dealer charges, but mine was aftermarket, around $110 mail order thru the internet and it was shipped one piece freight. I would not want to cut one. Only the federal version was available, that is why I had the 3" extension. My sister had the car before me and when she had the muffler replaced, in California, they cut the pipe just aft of the front connection and welded a piece in. The welds started leaking eventually.

[rapidoxidationman]

The federal emissions model exhaust comes in several parts: the flanged extention pipe that connects to the cat, the muffler, and a tailpipe. Cheapest I found for that was close to 200$... Should be seeing the proper (albeit cut) pipe on my front porch in a day or two. It'll be nice to have a quiet car again; now if I can just get some snake oil to heal the leaky valve seals on the #1 cylinder. Seriously considering replacing the engine with a new/used one, but having a hard time justifying spending the dough on a car I got 5 years ago for $800.

Damn thing just won't die! 282,000 miles and still going.

[Petros]

it is not too hard to replace the valve seal without taking the head off. remove the spark plug, fill the hole with soft rope or cord, turn the crank until the piston stops at near TDC and use a wrench in the front pulley bolt to hold it there (use a strap, cord or similar). Now you can push down on the valve spring retainer, remove the keepers, remove the spring, and replace the seal. Reassemble and remove the cord, replace the spark plug and you are good.

of course if the reason the seal went bad is there is too much wear in the valve guide, it means the new seal will not last long.

good luck