CV/Half Axle/Axle Assy?

[gerviswaddell]

Hey there,

Been reading on here about what seems to be the most common repair for our Terc's, which adresses the front end CV issues (clunking when cornering with the power on).

I have a frew questions, first what are people referring to when they say 'half axle' (looked at the fsm , cant find it) is it more worth while to just replace the entire axle assembly? there appear to be two 'cv' joints in there, and im thinking both can wear out.

Next, if I were to replace said axles, what method is needed, i understand they unlock from the diff somehow, and then are tapped out, but what about the hub side? remove cotter pin, loosen lock nut, and tap out? does anything inside the front suspension need to be loosened/removed to create enough room for the splined area on the axle to be slid out?

Finally, does anybody know where I could get these parts in CANADA? cant seem to find them anywhere online...

thanks a bundle.

Dave.

[Petros]

there are two front axles assemblies, the left and the right, not interchangeable but similar. They consist of a CV joint at each end with a spline shaft each, and the axle shaft proper between them. One spline end goes in the axle hub, the other in the front diff.

The whole front end including the L and R axles, plus the diff, is generally referred to as the front axle (technically the axle assembly), and so when referring to one of the front axle we sometimes call them "half shaft" since it is half of the set of two axles.

When you replace one of the two axles shafts you will replace both CV joints in that axle assembly, the spline shafts and the boots as a complete assembly (not usually worth rebuilding the CV joints yourself). If someone replaces one axle assembly they usual say they replaced the "half shaft".

Hope that helps.

[gerviswaddell]

Thanks,

sorry this now seems like a stupid question...I checked with a third party vendor today, and they have 'remanufactured' half shafts, and from my reading inve deduced that these sometimes arent worth going with...wearing out shortly after install, they are cheap though, I think the core refund is $50.00 and the total cost is $76.00 so seems quite reasonable, only problem is Im not sure what kind of an investment (of time) this install is going to be...if I have to take the suspension /hub/tie rod apart in order to install the new axle.

Are there any tricks, and or guides to doing this install in a time effective way?

thanks, again.

[Jarf]

GW - Axles are too easy to swap out, assuming of course you can get the axle nut loose, start blasting them now with a quality pennetrating oil and hit them a few times over several days while reading up on the procedure in the manual.

As to reman axles, it is a personal choice. On my first terc I went that route, figured I couldn't go wrong with a lifetime guarantee
it took 3 pairs before I got a set that lasted more than 3 months, but they were starting to get noisy after 18 months when I sold it.
That last pair was supplied after I ragged on the owner of the company as the failure I experienced was unacceptable, LS axle sheared in an intersection during a left turn, thank god for 4 wheel drive. Someone had cut the axle and welded a new end on.
Some scary stuff can go on with the reman houses.

On the current ride I went with brand new, was a little painful, $600 for the RS IIRC but has been in there for 2 years/60k and is still like brand new, I expect it to last at least another 20 years.

While it is relatively easy to swap an axle, it is wise to replace the seal each time, it does become monotonous after the 3rd or 4th time. If you are doing it yourself, that is one thing, if you are paying a shop (and they will likely charge an hours time) that lifetime guarantee is for the part ONLY and you will be on the hook for the labour to re & re.

Good luck

[buffalomesa]

Don't buy remanufactured axles for a Tercel, period. axles The outer joint type on the Tercel can't be rebuilt, so the remanufactured shaft can only be as good as the used outer joint on the core. I haven't seen a shaft with a welded-on replacement outer, but if I happened across one I wouldn't install it.

New aftermarket axles are now often cheaper than remans anyway.

[gerviswaddell]

I will be travelling through some of the northern United states next week (chicago, Minneapolis, north dakota, Montana ) then up into Alberta, is there anywhere along my route which would have such a part in stock? perhaps a retailer which I could call and have order (pay via credit card) and then pick it up along the way? , the trip is nearly 4000 km each way, Im thinking my presently crappy axles should last , but am not sure if they will last.

So who can I get these new axles from that is a large automotive chain, that is likely present along my trip?

thanks,

Dave.

[Jonesy]

Hey Dave, I just picked up two CV halfshafts for my '84 from Autozone.com. Head over to there and see if there is anything in stock to fit your vehicle.

[Petros]

all of the chains can get them for you at any location you choose. NAPA, AutoZone, Shucks, Pep Boys, etc. You can even order in a store in one city for pick up in another. Just find who has the best price.

The CV joints usually fail slowly, and seldom so it can not be driven. So you can drive them until you cant not stand the noise any more, which is a long time. AT worst the cv joint breaks off and you would be stuck but it would have to be petty noisy and rough before that happens. Even then, you could sever the inner boot to separate the inner spline shaft from the axle to remove the axle shaft (it is usually the outer CV joint that fails). this would leave the inner spline shaft in place so it will keep the oil in the diff/trans and than drive it home in 4wd.

Of course if you have the axles with you, and your tools, you can swap the axle assembly out in a rest-stop. The only special tool you would need is a 1/2" drive large socket and long "cheater" pipe to remove the large nut on the end of the axle. If you jack that side up high enough you will not even loose much trans oil out the diff when you swap out the axle.

[keith]

The CV joints usually fail slowly, and seldom so it can not be driven. So you can drive them until you cant not stand the noise any more, which is a long time. AT worst the cv joint breaks off and you would be stuck but it would have to be petty noisy and rough before that happens. Even then, you could sever the inner boot to separate the inner spline shaft from the axle to remove the axle shaft (it is usually the outer CV joint that fails). this would leave the inner spline shaft in place so it will keep the oil in the diff/trans and than drive it home in 4wd.

Ours failed catastrophically without much noise, and it didn't break, the fingers just pulled out of the sockets.

[Petros]

I have heard of this happening, but I guess you win the CV lottery. Was this on a Toyota? It is far more common for them just to wear out slowly, until they get so bad you have to replace them. When they are worn and sloppy enough they can pop out, which I have also seen, but the owner knew it was just a matter of time because they were so noisy.

It seems to me for it to failed suddenly without warning means they must have been defective or rapidly developed a crack that quickly failed. For it to pop out without breaking does not many any sense unless you have a bad engine mount or bad suspension, so the CV joint runs out of travel and pull out (they do allow a certain amount of in/out movement to accommodate the suspension motion). But I still contend this is pretty rare, or it has been in my experience.

[keith]

I have heard of this happening, but I guess you win the CV lottery. Was this on a Toyota? It is far more common for them just to wear out slowly, until they get so bad you have to replace them. When they are worn and sloppy enough they can pop out, which I have also seen, but the owner knew it was just a matter of time because they were so noisy.

It was out Tercel 4WD. The axle was a reman I had just gotten from O"Rielly's. It didn't make a lot of noise, but it did make some. I suspect they use either more grease than a new one calls for or a thicker grease in an attempt to muffle the noise.

O'Rielly's gave me another one, but it was just as bad. I initially replaced both axles with remans from O'Rielly's but the passenger side was a problem both times. I replaced both with EMPI's as soon as they became available and they worked really great.

I don't think O'Rielly's carries parts that are worse than anyone else's. Its just that remans can't be trusted.

[teenahlake]

what tool can be used for halfshaft pulling, I have #sst 09648-16010, is there an equivalent

[ARCHINSTL]

Did you perform a Search here for the info? There are a number of suggestions for alternatives...
If you actually have the official Toy tool as you stated, all you need is a 30mm socket and breaker bar. You might want to fabricate a tool to insert the seals, though - it is a good idea to replace them as well.
Tom M.

[Petros]

what tool can be used for halfshaft pulling, I have #sst 09648-16010, is there an equivalent

A really big screw driver works as a pry bar. I use a construction type "flat bar" (for pulling nails or opening wood crates). Sometimes if it is stubborn, you need one on each side of the CV joint so you pry on it evenly, but not usually.

[teenahlake]

Roger, front halfshaft replaced. was doing the rear bearings, word to wise the rockauto shows timken 5 this is not the case, pita. Chris was very good about this, and is sending the required parts, and changing the website to reflect it.