Exhaust Gasket Replacement?

[Flashman]

I need to replace the exhaust/combination manifold gasket on a 3-A. I'm concerned about shearing studs when removing the manifold. There probably isn't much for it, they either come off or they don't, but I would like to know if anyone has done this job?

Did you have problems with the studs shearing?

[Petros]

I have done this a number of times, both on Tercels and on other cars, and never had this problem. The only issue I had was sometimes the stud comes out with the nut (some are studs with nuts, some are bolts). I just put the stud with the nut back on in the same hole.

If you are concerned you could spray "liquid wrench" or similar penetrating oil on them the night before, and again that morning. Do you live in an area that uses salt on the roads? Or is your car especially corrosion prone? If not it should not be a problem.

You have to remove the carburetor to get to all of the nuts/bolts, just tape and mark all the houses, it is not too hard. You can leave the head pipe attached to the exhaust manifold, sometimes those nuts give you a lot of trouble. IF that joint does not leak I would leave it.

Good luck.

[ARCHINSTL]

While echoing Petros' comments - I would add that a flex connector is pretty necessary to turn the innermost nuts concealed under the intake manifold. I went further the second time and got a flex with an integral 14mm socket; it's a pretty shallow 6-point. All in all, a PITA to turn those fasteners.
Tom M.

[takza]

I'd use some GOOD penetrant on them on them for 24 hrs before starting. Not WD40...some of the better kinds.

[xirdneh]

While echoing Petros' comments - I would add that a flex connector is pretty necessary to turn the innermost nuts concealed under the intake manifold

a Thin (the cheap brands are usually the thick ones) diameter 3/8" extension with short 14 mm socket works great too

[toughtercel]

thanks

[keith]

Instead of a flex extension, I'd recommend a wobble extension, you get better control and they are stronger. Also a 1/2" drive system is stronger and gives even more control.

If you do break a stud, it can be replaced.

[Petros]

now that you called it, I had to use the u-joint type of adapter on an extension for several of the nut locations. You can not use the 1/2" drive sockets, too large. I found the normal 3/8" drive long extension with the u-joint worked fine, plenty strong too for this application. The nuts and bolts were only 12mm IIRC.

Good luck.

[ARCHINSTL]

Now that keith mentioned it, I do recall using a wobble extension on one of the "concealed" nuts (the front, I think), but had to use the flex connector(s) on the rear.
Tom M.

[Flashman]

This job has now evolved into a head gasket replacement! A small but persistent quantity of exhaust in the rad was a rather disconcerting sight. Oh well. As long as the head isn't warped I may not even have to deal with the manifold now.

Thank you all for the advice and recommendations. I appreciate the assistance.

[Petros]

you can leave the intake/exhaust manifold (and carb) on, you just unbolt the head pipe from the exhaust manifold, remove the bracket bolt, and unbolt the head after removing the belt. take the fule lines, vac lines and throttle cable off and you are ready to pull the head.

You can put off the head gasket job if you use the Barrsleak head gasket repair sealant (not your typical stop leak). It would allow you to drive it a bit longer before you do the head gasket job, to give you time to plan for it.

Good luck.