Throttle Sticking!

[jeanlinc]

Hi all,

New user here. I've got an 83 Tercel SR5 4x4. Bought it with 200k in 2000, put a new longblock and over the years have replaced nearly every mechanical component except for the trans and differential. I have put another 80k on it since then. It's been a good car, and can go ANYWHERE, but now has a few problems I haven't been able to diagnose, and I'm used to working on cars. I'm trying to get it to last another year while I get an old diesel Jetta fixed up and running on waste veggie oil. Any help would sure be appreciated!

Carb - the throttle sticks, resulting in a high idle. If I push on the throttle lever by hand, I can close it and slow it down and it will stay there, but once I hit the throttle and let off, it stays high. I added a second throttle return spring, but after awhile, even that couldn't keep the thing from racing. Maybe it just wants to go fast!? I've loosened the throttle cable, adjusted the throttle positioner and idle mixture screws (backed them out), same for the throttle positioner that prevents the throttle from snapping shut when you let off the gas. I've run carb cleaner through the bores, taken the carb off and didn't find any obstructions or build up around the throttle plate, lubed the throttle shaft. I've checked all of the vacuum hoses. It sticks even if I shut off the engine though, so I don't think it's vacuum. Any ideas? Anyone have an old carb lying around for a 3AC that they'd like to sell?

Brakes - The car has sat at times, for up to a year at a time. Not so good for brake components. Right now, I've got this weird brake problem where sometimes I have to pump the brakes to get it to stop, and sometimes I don't. When I have to pump, the left front locks up, not much stopping power from the right front. I suspect it's the master cylinder, but am starting to wonder if it might be the right front caliper. Anyone ever experienced this?

Steering - OK, so why would anything go wrong with the steering when the car only has 280,000 miles on it, and I live 3 miles up a bumpy dirt mountain road? The steering now binds slightly in a couple spots as you turn the wheel. I'm thinking I need a new steering rack (I've already replaced idler arm bushings, ball joints in the fairly recent past). ?

Thanks everyone for any advice!

[Neu]

The carb sounds like it may be time for a weber upgrade, or just goto a junkyard and nab the carb off one of those. I personally hate carbs quite a bit...but what are you going to do?

[toughtercel]

hi , about the CARB , I let some else explain to you, but about the brake , yes that what happen when car sitting to long , best to drain (bleed) all brake fluid out empty , because numbers of reason (1) the "vicosity" in brake fluid become less and less , rusty , very dirty, then add fresh brake fluid in the master cylinder *** oh before you do that ,make sure you can looseing two fitting that master cylinder and four wheels bleeder***.

if repeat have to pump every brakeing or if brake pedal still down to the floor then more likely the master cylinder, to save money ,loosen two fitting at master cylinder drain all out and add new fluid ,here the trick ,press the brake pedal down to bleed but before you release the pedal ,cover(plug) the port at master cylinder to avoid air sucking into cylinder then release the pedal, might have to repeat five times or more till no air coming out of master cylinder then test the car , about caliper pull to side way ,high number alway replace both side not one side , never know might pull other side , because one brand new and other side might be 80% good, still can pull side way alittle , want to save money then one side if you plan drive every day for years and years then better both calipers.
"FLUSHING BRAKE FLUID"
Every time I buy the car , I let it bleed 90% of brake fluid out from master cylinder to the rear brake , 10 % brake fluid remain left in the bottom of master cylinder(avoid empty ) then slowly pour new fluid into master cylinder to avoid stir in the blow half full (dirt at bottom and clean on top) and repeat bleed then third time fill it up with new clean brake fluid,

steering : might have water in the rack and pinion cause the chrome balls to peel or rust spots, that why both end have rubber boot to stop the dirt and water into steering pinion .

[Petros]

I have a spare carb if you want it cheap. What city are you in?

You should find out what is causing the problem before you switch carbs, it may not be in the carb at all but somewhere all the emissions junk. I would use this a chance to get rid of the carb, go to weber (expensive) or use a 22R carb (about the same size as the weber and cheaper if you get it from a wrecking yard), or switch to EFI like the TBI system from a Geo Metro (easy to adapt).

Sometimes the throttle shaft can wear out and leak air down the shaft boar, you have to replace the carb if that is the case (it can be sleeved but it is cheaper just to replace the carb with a used one). Check by spray carb cleaner (or raw propane gas) around the base of the carb with it running, you will find the leak if the engine speed changes. Good way to check all the hoses for leaks too.

It sounds like you have leaky brakes, better check both front and rear brakes. this is common on cars that sit around a lot. If the brake peddle slowly sinks once you pump it up and hold it, than the master is bad.

You might be able to adjust the lash on the steering. there was a link from a thread to another toyota site that shows how. Or if you can get a good rack used for a good price you can just replace it. These racks are generally pretty durable, but they will eventually wear out.

Good luck.

[takza]

Sounds like a sticking left caliper? If you can't force it to idle by moving the arm on the carb...beats me. Usually a vac leak will cause these engines to NOT idle. Sticking throttle cable???

[xirdneh]

check the steering joint under the hood by the distributor
it has probably tightened up
may have to remove and work some oil in while bending it back and forth
have had this happen once and it caused hard and jerky steering

[takza]

Definitely soak that steering column joint in oil. If you catch it soon enough and keep it oiled...you won't have to replace it. I replaced mine because it was loose.

[toughtercel]

ohhh yeah , between steering shaft and steering rack look like "U-JOINT" or "unaversal joint " i had to lube it so many times , only last less than a year , stud goes into u-joint rolls bearing became oval shape on male stud, once I replace it , noo problem . there a u-joint for sale on E-BAY.

[jeanlinc]

Thanks everybody for the great advice. This group rocks! I'll check that u-joint on the steering shaft. The good news is I just picked up an '85 Terc 4x4 parts car for $100 with good carb, good steering, maybe a good master brake master cylinder, good tires (my other need), and all of the parts I can use for awhile. I had a great parts car when I lived in Maine, but had to scrap it when we moved back out to Colorado. It'll be good to have one again!

[Petros]

is the transmission any good? Is it a 6 speed 4wd? I take it! and the rear diff too. Want to convert my '84 to 4.1:1 final drive, same as '85 and newer.

[Neu]

Dont listen to petros, I'll take the tranny.


Just kidding.

[Petros]

Hah! just grabbed an '85 tranny, drive shaft assy, and rear diff in the 4.1:1 from the Arlington WA pull-a-part for $76!!! what a deal. now I am ready for my 4age swap!

Better hurry, they just got an '84 and another '85 in today! All SR5, all 6 speeds