windsheild/window removal before painting

[CathodeRayTube]

im planning to repaint...and do it the right way...how do i go about removing the glass without breaking anything?? then how do i get it back in..?

planning to strip the whole car down to the chassis by removing everything including the engine, fix and reconstruct rust areas, then repaint and put it all back together...and also coat and rust proof the underside..

[sdoan]

Wow - ambitious! But very practical and a much better job.

The body section of the manual shows how to do these things.

The door glass Unbolts - 10mm bolts on the top of the window regulators (pull inner door panels. you can usually pull the plastic vapor barrier off the tacky glue without tearing it, then you see the window regulator). The small fixed rear door windows come out after you unbolt the window track that divides the two windows. The windshield is glued in - it can probably be cut out with a utility knife or the manual shows using a thin wire to cut the glue. The back window glass may need the gaskets cut with a utility knife if they are hard. If not you and a friend can often push it out from the inside by working the inside rubber flap of the gasket under the steel lip of the body. It helps if it is a hot day. If I remember correctly you start at the top center and work both directions for windows like the back glass (check with a body shop). The problem is you can pretty easily over stress the glass with the gasket and crack it.

Most windshield places seem to ignore the trim clips and just glue the trim pieces in with windshield sealer.
To get the back windows with gaskets back in you start by putting the gasket over the glass. Then place a tough cord (1/8" or 3/16" nylon line) in the rubber channel so that the two ends of the line overlap at the bottom center. Lay the gasket and glass over the opening and pull on the cord ends to pull the flap of rubber over the steel lip of the body with your friend pushing from the outside. Soapy water should help. Get the bottom center started and work both directions pulling the cord to pull the gasket into place. Work slow at the corners because the stresses build up quickly and can crack the glass. The upper corners may be the most difficult because the glass and gasket usually won't have seated into the body opening (it will be too high in the opening). Work slow and patiently. Again, body shops know how to do this stuff and might show you how.

Good Luck

[hberdan]

I think you will be very lucky if you can remove the windshield without destroying it. I wouldn't even count on that happening, I'd plan on a new windshield when the painting is completed.
The side and rear windows shouldn't be too much of a problem, but the windshield has a lot of stresses on it that contribute to it's demise.
Replacement windshields are really not too expensive, around here a new AM windshield for a wagon is about $125, installed.
Best of luck!

[SynthDesign]

Pull the trim on windshield and leave the rest. You have about a 90% chance in breaking it cutting it out even if you know what your doing.
A razor blade and lacquer thinner are all you need to clean up the over-spray.

Or just smash it out and replace it with a aftermarket one for about $210 USD from Speedy Auto(Cheapest quality I could find in Washington).

[atoyta]

When I repainted mine I left the windshield and pulled the doors apart. Pulled the side molding , bumpers and license plate holder on the rear and the rear glass. I should have pulled the rear side windows as they are rusting under the gasket now. I used a nylon window tool to push the gasket through on the rear window and then pushed it through around the edge until the gasket came out. I soaked the gasket where it meets the body with teflon spray while lifting the gasket edge inside & out before beginning to push it through. Do not use a metal tool to push the gasket out. Have a friend inside to catch the window when it falls out.

[Paul]

If the windshield is in good shape, I would not try to remove it. I did have success removing one from a junkyard car by using Harbor Freight tool #99892. Here's a link to it http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=99892.

I glass is held totally by polyurethane adhesive for windshields. I purchased a tube from my local Advanced Auto Parts. After replacement, it didn't leak, but I did have trouble with the trim popping loose and had to reglue it. After spending all day on this job, I might call a glass shop next time.

[ARCHINSTL]

I did this (actually - "attempted" would be the proper verb...) on a Morris Minor many years ago. I did many things on those cars, including pulling motors and installing a clutch - but I had to go to a pro with my tail between my legs on this one and endure the smirks of the staff.
This is one of those cases where the pros really can do a much better job.
Tom M.

[CathodeRayTube]

Ok i think i shal just leave the windseild in and cover it up to paint...i should be able to get the rear windows out myself....and then maybe il just drag the whole rear door/hatch to a shop and let them get the glass out for me and then drag it back again to have them re install it after iv painted...

[jetswim]

Where I live there is a place called 'Go Glass' and they will come to you to replace wind shields and even windows on your house. A few years back I was doing body work on my wifes Tercel and after I removed the old glass, sanded and painted, they came out to my farm and installed a new wind shield for $300 and a guarantee it wouldn't leak.
There might be this service near you?

[Petros]

The rear glass is not too bad, I have done it without any fancy tools. The wind shield is another matter, very difficult to remove without breaking it, I have never managed it even through I have tried several times. It takes a very sharp and thin knife to cut through the gasket all the way around (destroying it in the process).

ON the rear, put heat lamps on the rubber to soften it (or have in the sun on a hot day if you can wait until then). Run a plastic bladed putty knife around the edge of the gasket to break it free, and then peel it back, using putty knifes or similar tools to keep it from popping back into place as you work your way around. Once you work your way far enough around, the rear window and gasket just falls right out. I think the side rear windows come out the same way.

If you are reusing the gasket I would soften it with Armorall or similar, warm it and I would consider using some kind of sealant when you reinstall it since the old rubber gasket will be stiff and hard, which risks that it will not seal. Unless you get a new rubber gasket. But I have found that even old ones can be reused without problem if they are not damaged.

Good luck.

[SynthDesign]

FWI: The rear window can be removed by hand with no tools much like the rear-most side windows. Peel the seal gently back from the inside and put pressure towards the outside gently and the window should come out with out a problem. I start from the top and work my way down evenly from each side.

I've never had one that was very dry-rotted yet though.

I recommend Silglide to lube up the worn rubber seal and protect it against further damage.

[Snax]

Just with respect to working with glued-in glass in general: Wear safety glasses!

I have only removed two glued in windows, using piano wire and gently pulling. The first one came off with no problem. The second one shattered into roughly 2347 pieces! Sharp pieces that went everywhere! Yes, they were safety glass, but you still don't want to get nailed in the eye with a piece of it as it shatters.

[splatterdog]

When I fixed the frame on my 84, rust had seperated everything but the bottom. Just had to push it out.

Duct taping both sides of the windshield beforehand contains glass explosions nicely.