after market heater core

[xirdneh]

I tried to buy a new heater core at the local Napa and the two cores from two different companys (Proalliance brand and Ready Aire 399317)turned out to be the same core. The length and width were the same as the originals but the thickness was half of the original. It was designed to fit in the Tercels original housing having ends that were the same thickness as the original. Just the radiator portion was half the thickness of the originals. They are made from aluminum.

Does anyone know anything about these thinner aluminum cores?

[splatterdog]

I've put in a few of the proliances that were thinner. They are supposed to be more efficient, to make up for the lack of thickness. Had "hurt hot" heat after on all vehicles, so I can't complain.

If you are skeptical, spend the dough on OE. You can never go wrong there.

I have also gotten good results from chemically flushing my terc's. My first two had liquid rust when I got them. If your core is weak it's unlikely that heat transfer is up to snuff in the entire cooling system. Deposits don't build up just in the heater core. You have to get heat into the coolant before you can remove it.

I know someone here is 100% against flushing, but what's the difference? If there's a part that's not transferring heat and starts leaking after a flush, you have to replace a part that was bad anyway.

[xirdneh]

I've put in a few of the proliances that were thinner. They are supposed to be more efficient, to make up for the lack of thickness. Had "hurt hot" heat after on all vehicles, so I can't complain.

Did you refill the system and go?
or
Did you do anything special when you refilled the system?

[splatterdog]

I usually use a Vacufill tool. It pulls a deep vacuum on the system and then the vacuum pulls the coolant in. Works awesome on todays plumbing nightmares.

But, my T4's have flushing tee's in the upper heater hose. This just happens to be the high point in our cooling system making it also the ideal location for a "bleeder" Just fill the rad till it comes out the tee and cap it off. Pretty much fully burped after that method. I do have a tool that helps for this though. It's called a"spill free funnel". It attaches just like a rad cap. It allows you to easily fill it and to run it with the rad slightly overfilled to get any remaining bubbles to escape. When done burping there's a long plug so you can remove it without spilling any, then dump that in the reserve tank.

[Neu]

I do have a tool that helps for this though. It's called a"spill free funnel". It attaches just like a rad cap. It allows you to easily fill it and to run it with the rad slightly overfilled to get any remaining bubbles to escape. When done burping there's a long plug so you can remove it without spilling any, then dump that in the reserve tank.

Those are incredibly helpful. About 10 bucks at harbor freight.

[ARCHINSTL]

This "spill-free funnel" is interesting - but I could not find it on the HF site; all I could find is one by the Lisle Company, available from various online venders from $25 to $35 or so.
Wow - that Vacufill tool is some megabucks - not something the homeowner would have!

Off-topic a bit...but I installed a genyewine Toy thermostat last Fall - and I swear that it did not have one of those jiggle-valve thingies. Anyone else notice this? Did the STL Toy dealer give me the right one?
Tom M.

[takza]

I know someone here is 100% against flushing, but what's the difference? If there's a part that's not transferring heat and starts leaking after a flush, you have to replace a part that was bad anyway.

I am. I have probably an original core that heats just fine. I change the antifreeze fairly often and backflush it. Also use 1/2 bottle BarsLeaks in it. It's not broke till it is...and I don't want to fix it.

So if I have an older car that doesn't overheat and the heater works OK...I treat it with kid gloves...just backflush and keep the antifreeze changed. No flushing just for the FUN of it....you aren't fixing anything.

If you have a core that already leaks...then you have to do an R&R....and all I can say is...good luck.

Besides...if it did start to leak....Advance AP has a quart bottle of stop leak (block seal?) for $60 (I kid you not) that would fix it right up. Probably water with $.50 worth of water glass (sodium silicate) in it?

[4wdchico]

I'm in the no flush camp with older cars also. I prefer to clean out the cooling system slowly using distilled water, good antifreeze and Napa (Wix) Cool. I use the 4 ounce per gallon ratio of Napa Cool as stated on the bottle. I just give it regular changes every month or two and it will clean out a cooling system very well over time. Much less agressive than the regular chemical flushing agents. When I am happy with the cleaning results, I will put in the same mix as described above plus some Redline Water Wetter and then go back to my annual coolant changes.

Recently, the owner of the best auto repair shop in town supported his using tap water in the cooling system of the cars they work on by pointing out that he had read a trade mag that said that the antifreeze makers are counting on municipal water containing chlorine being used in the mix and that the chlorine was needed to prevent bacterial growth. Not willing to stop using the distilled water, I now put six drops of chlorine bleach in every gallon that I'm going to use in a cooling system.

[splatterdog]

To all you naysayers. How many 20 year old cars you just purchased were maintained properly? It might have had well water in it for all you know. I've seen quite clearly how well flushing works and have yet to spring a leak. Not just looking down the rad cap hole. My worst T4 had a thick brown layer that was scrapeable, inside the cylinder head as far as you could see with the bypass housing off. Post flush it couldn't have looked any newer. That engine even ran better by the end of my 150 mile scenic drive while I circulated the solution.

Coolant alone has very little to no detergency. Just inhibitors meant to keep the crust from happening in the first place. I would only be against flushing If I/car owner was prepared to replace the heating/cooling system and hot tank the engine every time I see 10+ year old rotten coolant and heat transfer was an issue. Like I said, if the core aint cuttin it nothing else is either.

I know 99% of heater cores jobs suck, I've done many. What are you going to do. If you drive in the cold, it's no less important than say the engine or tranny. At least to me. I've done enough suffering because of cars. I don't care if you think I'm a wuss. But we see -30's and a no heat car is undriveable in my book. Most manu's also recommend flushing in a no/poor heat situation(that's not a mechanical prob) and/or just going straight for the replacement of heater core($). I will take the cheaper route at first as will most other car owners that want it right and knowing full well it might take $200-400 to have good heat. That's a bargain compared to A/C that can cost much more.

We are talking of T4's here and bad heat seems to be a pretty common problem. All 3 of mine so far. Flush results for them-heat on 1 went from ok to great, the other 2 went from almost nothing to good.

4wdchico- that's a small amount of bleach, but I wouldn't recommend it as it's corrosive to aluminum.

Arch-The funnel is Lisle and that's about right on price.The vacufills can be found on ebay for under $100.I would only recommend one if you do alot of fills. It will completely fill a 4 gallon system in about a minute

[keith]

Splatterdog, I'm against chemical flushes for what it does to the rubber in the system, not the metal. I have had nothing but trouble using chemical flushes, even on a system that I know was well cared for and had brand new hoses. Within two months, every hose let go, even the new ones. Never again.

[splatterdog]

Keith, I don't know what you are using to flush with, but I have not' had any hose failures at all. The heater hoses are still OE even. Nothing but good results for me.

I use prestone's radiator cleaner for neglected systems. Takes oily slime out too I found. Used the spill free funnel during a chemical flush on a 2000 impala so the goop could float right out of the rad while it was running. Nasty! I'm not sure if it was from excessive stop leak or oil migration thru the shot intake gaskets. It wasn't dexcool coagulation as it had green in it. BTW, this car had blistering heat afterward.

[ARCHINSTL]

Gee, Thanks for the photo - I was eating, but then the keyboard got a little cluttered...
Tom M.