Another Alberta guy

[vervepipes]

I'm about to pick up an 86 4wd wagon, unfortunately it's a slushbox and not standard, but it's free! The current owner stopped driving it because he hears a noise and thinks it's a crank bearing, but I'll see if I can figure it out and fix it relatively cheaply. I'm a Toyota guy, my first car was an '88 tercel 2 door sedan and I now have an '07 Yaris sedan, among other things. The car will mainly be used to deliver pizzas for my second job and to fetch parts while my project ('90 short dodge van) is getting it's 318 swap and body work.

No pics yet of the car, it's gold, has rusted front fenders and some rust on the rear wheel wells and a bit on the rocker panels.

[Petros]

If it is a bearing, thay are not costly to replace if you do it yourself, but it is a lot of work. You have to pull the engine, there is no easy way to get the pan off with the engine in the car.

But before pulling the engine, isolate the noise, it might not be a bearing, and it might be an easy fix. Check the cam wear, valve lash adjustment and other things that might causes a tick or knocking.

There is also filling the crankcase with STP instead of motor oil, that can stop the knocking too, for a while anyway.

Good luck.

[scotisha]

Welcome! Where you to?

[vervepipes]

I'm up in Cold Lake. This car isnt going to be on the road for a few months, probably when I start the swap in my project van so I have loads of time to figure out where the noise is coming from. I love this type of thing, last car of this nature I bought needed a new engine because it was seized and needed new shocks, so I un-seized the alternator which was keeping the starter from being able to turn the engine over, and I inflated the tires to proper PSI to fix the " bad shocks". If the engine needs to get pulled I have all the equipment I need at my disposal although for the purpose of this car if it was a bad problem I'd probably just find a free or cheap runner and drop in it's motor in place.

[vervepipes]

[vervepipes]

May as well get better pics now that I have them.

4AC swap went well, runs great but I havent tuned the carb yet so I bet I can get it running better and get a bit better than 9L/100Km that I'm getting in mixed driving now, guess it doesnt help that I idle a lot while delivering pizzas...




I have a puch bar left over from my explorer that I'm going to have on this car, I have cut the mounts to fit and it will line up nicely on the front crossmember, doesnt look bad either when I had somebody hold it for me. getting the bar on will be my first welding project, later advancing to practicing body work on the car before I attempt it on my van project.

[vervepipes]

I dont think it looks bad with the 175/65 R14's taken from my yaris, better than the rusty OEM steelies anyways. I stole these to not wear out my studded winter tires...

[vervepipes]

Got a little project out of the way, cut a bracket and welded it to the front crossmember, this push bar looks like it was meant to be there lol



next is practising body work on this car before I try on my project van

[ARCHINSTL]

Looks GREAT! As you say - OEM!
How about a pix of the underneath and material specs and drawings?
Fits in with Jarf's still hilarious line:

But there is a whole host of new sounds - almost manly sounds,

Tom M.

[vervepipes]

The brackets are actually the mounting bracket for a gen 2 ford explorer(which I removed it from before trading it in for my Yaris) that have been cut down so it's essentially bar stock with a hole for the push bar's bolt. I left the bolts snug so I could align the push bar on the front cross member, supported by axle stands and welded the brackets in place. When I have time I can measure the legnth/width of the bracket and the hole location and I'll snap a pic of my embarrassing welds lol