Lifting a Terk?

Dirtmagnet · Post by **Dirtmagnet** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 7:51 pm

The spacers are not as complicated as they may look. A 1" plate, a piece of 1/4" wall pipe in the center, and another 3/16"-1/4" plate for the bottom flange. The ones on our car are not pretty, cut out with a hand torch, but they serve the purpose. They would not be very hard to make.

Takza, I do not think any washers were added to the strut rod. The stock set-up should work with the spacer between the shock and fender.

To answer Sacwac's camber concern. I think the stock adjustments are enough to bring it back in. Out car looks like the camber is good, and it drives great.

I too am a Mechanical Engineer, so getting a CAD drawing is not a problem. If I can get some time to pull one off and get the measurement, I will make a set of drawings. I also have access to a couple of machine shops, so getting a set made would not be a problem either.

Will be posting more photo's soon.

russkiypenguin1 · Post by **russkiypenguin1** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 10:19 pm

I find it really interesting that technical people really seem to take to this car.

GTSSportCoupe · Post by **GTSSportCoupe** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 7:17 am

russkiypenguin wrote: I find it really interesting that technical people really seem to take to this car.

I think it's because we recognize the smart/efficient/quality engineering of this car. Toyota's are without a doubt my favorite vehicles - I really appreciate the way Toyota has engineered their vehicles. German's do a good job too, but I think the Japanese are more efficient.

takza · Post by **takza** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:06 am

Dirtmagnet wrote:The spacers are not as complicated as they may look. A 1" plate, a piece of 1/4" wall pipe in the center, and another 3/16"-1/4" plate for the bottom flange. The ones on our car are not pretty, cut out with a hand torch, but they serve the purpose. They would not be very hard to make.

My know someone who works at a place where they make a lot of stuff out of steel, alum, & ss and they have a computer controlled abrasive cutter that could make these plates.

I'm thinking maybe 3/16" for top & bottom...anyone have some idea of the strength needed? Do think that whatever spaces them apart should be at the bolt holes though to avoid bending the plates....3 equal lengths of 1/2" - 3/4" water pipe (or eqiv) would even do it.

aussie4X4 claimed that the strut topped out when driven off road without the extra length on the strut rod...have no experience myself.

As far as camber...the picture shows that the control arms are at a pretty good angle...so 2" farther down would make for more positive camber....adjsutment should take care of it.

We might actually come up with a design here.......

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 11:52 am

I wouldn't use a 1" plate on the top, seeing as it's only bolting to sheet metal. It would add alot of unneccessary weight and cost.

A sheetmetal fabrication shop might be a better place to get the plates made. They don't need to be round, they could be more square. A guy I work with also works in a fab shop and said he could shear and punch steel over 1/2" thick, and that would be much faster than machining it. He offered to help with my rear disc brake adapters that way instead of me trying to cut them out with a torch.

To do the pipe part you would want it lathe cut so that the faces are flat, or else the adapter might end up crooked and mess with the alignment. Welding it shouldn't affect it too much as long as the assembly is clamped together first.

I said alot about designing and building parts before I started working full time, but now find that I lack the time and energy to get anything done. It's mostly the energy that's lacking. I would like to help out as much as I can but unfortunately not much is getting done - I haven't even been able to fix my broken front crossmember yet, and that could be a problem. Perhaps as I get used to working so much I will get more energy to do things.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 5:35 pm

You're working on a rear disk adapter? I've been wondering how to get a caliper holder to work with that axle.. I've seen conversions for 4Runners and basically they just whack off the drum, drum internals, and backing plate, pop on a specially made caliper stabilizer, pop on the caliper and rotor, hook up lines and are done. Of course I know it'd be smarter to also go with larger brake lines and possibly a bigger Master Cylinder, I still am stuck as to how to get a rear caliper holder to work...... (goes out to perform "surgery" on the dead Terc)

Oh yes, where can you get good air shocks for the Tercels? I saw that Takza suggested a place, anyone know of any others? This lift idea is seeming more appealing by the minute, especially since the taller tires would equate to lower RPM at speed, so better highway miles. Plus I live up in the mountains, and though I have paved roads all the way to my driveway, 4x4'ing is still a BLAST!
(Oh yeah, and more curb appeal :rolleyes: )

takza · Post by **takza** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 6:43 pm

Dirtmagnet wrote: Takza, I do not think any washers were added to the strut rod. The stock set-up should work with the spacer between the shock and fender.

After thinking about it some...I see that extending the strut rod at top wouldn't be needed since the strut's relationship with the top plate isn't changed....spacer goes on top. Strut & spring travel are stock...it's just that the body sits higher.

Advantage of the air shocks over my shock spring booster setup is that the air shocks are easy to adjust to keep the car level whether it's loaded down for a trip or just running around town.

As far as places that sell the air shocks...that place claims that they modify the shock some...or might....you could check other places for that part number though.

I think I'm actually going to do this...since I could use new shocks in back and intend to do the front springs/struts next year.

Dirtmagnet · Post by **Dirtmagnet** » Sat Nov 20, 2004 1:15 pm

Was able to make some photo's of the front strut and rear air shock. Not very clear pictures.

Not to get off topic, but I added a couple more photo's of my son's Tercel in the gallery.

This photo shows the front strut spacer. It has a pipe gusset welded to the top. The one who lifted it said he wanted to make sure it didn't bend, but after he put it all together, he said the gusset is not needed. You are seeing the 1" plate.

Here is the air shock on the rear. It is a Monroe Max-Air. I will get the Monroe # and cost here at our local shop.

This is the air line. It connects with the other shock then runs just below the rear bumper with the air valve for filling.

Hope these help.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sat Nov 20, 2004 1:57 pm

Cool. How did he deal with the rear springs? Just leave them semi-nonfunctional? How comfortable are those airshocks? Are you going to be able to get some CAD's of those spacers? It'd be great if they could be produced in largish numbers, I'm sure they'd sell fairly well if you marketed them.

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Nov 21, 2004 6:15 am

Max Air shocks:

<a href='http://www.shockwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/s ... n_air.html' target='_blank'>http://www.shockwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/s ... ir.html</a>

Have the MA700 for $75.79 a pair:

<a href='https://www.rockauto.com/' target='_blank'>https://www.rockauto.com/</a>

<a href='http://www.monroe.com/products/mp_detai ... =Max%20Air' target='_blank'>http://www.monroe.com/products/mp_detai ... x%20Air</a>

russkiypenguin1 · Post by **russkiypenguin1** » Sun Nov 21, 2004 9:24 am

Yeah, how do you find the ride? I'd like a stiffer ride in my terk, especially on the highway where I feel like I'm getting blown all over the place.

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon Nov 22, 2004 7:22 am

Dirtmagnet wrote:
This photo shows the front strut spacer. It has a pipe gusset welded to the top. The one who lifted it said he wanted to make sure it didn't bend, but after he put it all together, he said the gusset is not needed. You are seeing the 1" plate.

He really overbuilt the spacer. I just got the brilliant idea of using thick plywood to make the spacers...I'd soak them in thinned polyurethane to water proof them...stack up the required number to get the height I'd need....use silicone between them...easier to work in wood and since they'd be under compression...why not? Would use number 8 bolts.

Try and talk me out of it.....

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon Nov 22, 2004 7:27 am

russkiypenguin wrote: Yeah, how do you find the ride? I'd like a stiffer ride in my terk, especially on the highway where I feel like I'm getting blown all over the place.

Check this page:

<a href='http://tercel4wd.com/invision/index.php?act=ST&f=7&t=70' target='_blank'>http://tercel4wd.com/invision/index.php ... =7&t=70</a>

Also check the bushings on your swaybar....solid bushings make a big diference in handling.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Nov 22, 2004 7:46 pm

$75.79 for the both of the Max-Air's? Is that including the 2-inch mod fee? I wonder what kind of spacer would best be put to use in a 1" lift application. Hmmm.. Just an odd thought, but does anyone think the Terc might look good in the "aggressive" stance?

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Nov 23, 2004 4:35 am

I'm not sure that the MA700 Max Airs are the same that are on DirtMagnet's car...or whether the other place modifies them in some way...they must for the price they charge. I had searched for air shocks for the Tercel before, but never found a cross reference.

Still up in the air...............