well, that is one low budget option. Is this your daily driver?
Now you have put large loads on an acceptable but not terribly study ring and pinion and rear axle. Likely you will be doing damage to all the components in the drive train sooner or later. I guess these parts are reasonably common and cheap.
When I was racing the Spitfire, we went through a number of diffs welded as you have done, none held up for long. The technique that wound up working the best for the longest period of time (never broke) was to fill the space between two of the spider gear teeth with weld (an old drag racer trick it turns out). We filled one space and then the other directly opposite on both spider gears and rotated the spider gears back into place. The biggest advantages to this were that if we were inspected, we could put another set in place and still have an open diff, PLUS there was free play in the diff from lock to lock which made pushing it and low speed turns easier on everything. I have a set for my '62 Sprite that I'll put in place an photo for reference if anyone wants it. Just trying to give what I have
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Somewhere I have a picture of Suzuki samurai diffs I did in the same fashion. I broke driveshafts, but never a diff! I used an OLD miller arc, some 7018ac and just went to town.
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gearhead313 wrote: I used an OLD miller arc, some 7018ac and just went to town.
Thanks for laying out what you did and throwing up a pic. Many people don"t understand how a welded diff is done or looks like.
Before you welded it did you kittylitter bake it to remove oil residue in the steel pores or did you just weld away. I have had better longevity on baking first and then welding but either way I have not had a welded diff last longer than a standard open diff. My luck has been when they grenade they destroy the whole rear end or front end as on a friends 85 4runner.
And yes on straight crawls and drag racing, they work great.
I can't image the noise you get when you turn on dry pavement at 30mph..
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