Egr modulator valve

[steve071370]

Hey all. Seems a while back I thought I had a faulty egr valve, seems the modulator valve is just not working. Tried spraying WD40 into the ports, to no avail. The car starts fine when cold, idles down once it's warmed up, then once I drive it for about 5-10 minutes and come to a stop, the car is stumbling, idling very poorly. If I pull the vacuum hose off the top of the egr valve, she smooths out. Anyone know where these valves can be purchased at a reasonable cost? Rockauto has em, but $67 seems high!

1985 Toyota Tercel 4x4 wagon
auto trans, 3ac 1.5l.
132,800 miles on her and still going strong!!

[ARCHINSTL]

You might inquire of Butler Toy in Indy - I bought an OE from there in '05 for $63.
It is www.toyotaoemparts.com.
Tom M.

[steve071370]

Thanks, will give 'em a try!

[4wdchico]

Before buying a new modulator I'd suggest pulling the hose off the egr valve while it is stumbling at idle and then plug the line that you just pulled off. Granted it sounds like you have a modulator problem but it would be sad if it turned out that introducing a vac leak buy pulling the line is what is solving the issue.

Also check the big vac line that goes to the bottom of the modulator for cracks/leaks, good idea to replace it if you replace the modulator. I'd try a modulator from a wrecking yard first. The test in the FSM on pace EC26, the first part of the test can be done very simply at the wrecking yard without a running engine.

[steve071370]

Well, I did the test according to the FSM on the modulator valve, and it is fine. I opened it up and the filter elements inside were filthy, so I replaced them. Plugged it back in and drove the car for a bit to test things out. It still idles a bit rough after some driving, but not as bad as it has been. Started checking vacuum lines, and the ones I've inspected so far are ok. Need to check the rest for cracks and what not.
Now if the rest of the lines are good, then the poor idling may be caused by a bad/stuck egr valve? I've cleaned it out already, and though there was some carbon buildup in there, it wasn't totally blocked up. I'd hate it to end up being the egr, but if it is, then I have to bite the bullet and get one, most likely from RockAuto, as they seem to be the cheapest that I've found so far.

[ARCHINSTL]

Re the EGR valve - Did you review the several threads in the Repair Guides section for its cleaning? Did you use oven cleaner as well as picks?
Also attach a vac gauge to its lower inlet and see if you can hear the valve opening and closing.
Tom M.

[takza]

If the idle issue is fixed when you pull and plug the EGR vac line...then the issue is the modulator...not the EGR itself. The modulator issue could be the vac source to it also. I'd try to test some used modulators before I'd pay $ for a new one. Some of our members in the NW could probably find one fora $1 or so?

[steve071370]

Ok. So, anyone out there know where to find a modulator valve cheap, I checked a lot of dealer sites, RockAuto, etc., not cheap brand new!!

[ARCHINSTL]

I just checked Butler's site; as you probably noted, the modulator is not shown. As I discovered on a few other parts, notably front suspension bits, that does not mean that it is no longer available - kinda like how the AutoZone and Advance "real" stores have access to some items the online "sister stores" do not show (and vice-versa).
Give them a call at 800-692-6396; ask for Kyle or Mark. Or send them an email.
The official Toy part number is 25690-15030.
Tom M.