Window crank handle!

[hberdan]

I've broken another window crank handle! The dang plastic just doesn't seem to hold up very well, as the knob always breaks off the crank...the little teeth on the back of the knob break off under torque, and the knob won't stay in; alternatively, the gear teeth strip out at the axle. Is there an alternative available made from aluminum or steel or ?.
Of course it's no big deal, really, as I have a few spares pulled from old vehicles, but it's always the coldest of days when a handle breaks, making it no fun at all to change it out with another one. I'd like to replace em with a stronger crank handle if possible, but don't want to have to manufacture one myself.
Did ALL 1980's Toyotas use the same crank handle? Do I need to search Ebay for specific Tercel handles?
Does anyone know how much new ones cost at the dealer? Are the aftermarket plastic ones any good?
Thanks!

"The pump don't work
'Cause the vandals took the handles"

[Neu]

I've never had one break off..which is weird. Just be gentle with them. Dont jerk them, just be gentle.

[hberdan]

I've never had one break off..which is weird. Just be gentle with them. Dont jerk them, just be gentle.

I think it's the very cold weather here, and the fact that the window is very hard to open in the cold; the regulator mechanism and the old rubber window seals just freeze up! I've taken the drivers door interior panel off, cleaned and re-lubed the regulator with ultra cold weather lube, but it still is hard to operate at times...I'll try to be nice, but still would like some replacement handles.

[takza]

I hit the channels with WD40 a couple times each winter....and if they freeze shut...I don't try to open them. If you are simple minded...things work out ok?

[jetswim]

Don't open your window in the cold weather LOL!

[takza]

Maybe Rainex or wax on the rubber and /or glass?

[SynthDesign]

Did ALL 1980's Toyotas use the same crank handle? Do I need to search Ebay for specific Tercel handles?
Does anyone know how much new ones cost at the dealer? Are the aftermarket plastic ones any good?

Yes, most of the early Toyotas, pre 92 use the same few door crank handles. You can visit your local pull-a-part with only a rag for the jesus clip. It'll cost you very little $, why ebay?. Dealer retail is over $27 depending on where you look. After market seems to be less quality but newer materials. China made?

Also, Sil Glide is designed for this type of lubrication application. I buy it from Napa in the 1/2gallon tub. I use it for all rubber and vinyl seals and alot of other stuff.
The only thing WD40 works good for is removing over spray and crayons, it's not a lubricant but a solvent. IMO

[takza]

The only thing WD40 works good for is removing over spray and crayons, it's not a lubricant but a solvent. IMO

WD40 has waxes and oils in it. It leaves a residue.

[hberdan]

Thanks for all the info. I've replaced the handle with a good spare from my spares box, but it's the last one.
There are no do-it -yourself junkyards around here anymore! All the really great yards were closed down years ago, the land sold off for housing developments. Too bad, as they were the best source of body and door parts for me.
I noticed that my Saab owner's manual recommends using glycerin to lubricate the rubber window channels; I think I'll try that and see if it works on the Tercel. Pure glycerin is fairly cheap at pharmacies and natural food stores.

[sdoan]

Is there an alternative available made from aluminum or steel or ?.
Of course it's no big deal, really, as I have a few spares pulled from old vehicles, but it's always the coldest of days when a handle breaks, making it no fun at all to change it out with another one. I'd like to replace em with a stronger crank handle if possible,

It sounds like you need to loosen up the window regulator (that's what the cranking mechanism is called). Using a stronger handle means it will just break somewhere else. I fixed one that was folded up by the previous owner (bent the thinner cross bar because it was so stiff) and it goes up and down very easily using the old pieces - so it is possible to fix it.

It's probably best to remove the glass (it's covered in the FSM) and pull the regulator out and clean and lube it on the bench. As I recall there was a lot of resistance at the horizontal roller guide at the back of the door, resistance at the main pivot below the gear and spring, and at the counterbalance spring itself (which seemed to be bound up by surface rust). I used oil where lube had to get between pieces I couldn't reach and used grease for things like the guides and spring. I worked it back and forth until it worked easily.

Reinstalling it is also covered in the FSM. You find that adjustment of the horizontal guides makes a difference in the resistance.

There are also side to side window channel adjustments down in the door if the window is jamming in its channel.

The hard part of doing this is getting the plastic membrane off the door in one piece so you can put it back on when your done (warming the steel below the glue with a hair dryer might help).

[takza]

I think you have to treat the driver's window like you do the heater controls...adjust and lube...don't wait...you can avoid big problems later.

[hberdan]

,

It's probably best to remove the glass (it's covered in the FSM) and pull the regulator out and clean and lube it on the bench. As I recall there was a lot of resistance at the horizontal roller guide at the back of the door, resistance at the main pivot below the gear and spring, and at the counterbalance spring itself (which seemed to be bound up by surface rust). I used oil where lube had to get between pieces I couldn't reach and used grease for things like the guides and spring. I worked it back and forth until it worked easily.

.

Oh, I've done all that, in fact, more than once, in more than one wagon. It's the very cold weather, not the installation, it's very clean and well lubed with proper lube. Dang thing is just old.

[sdoan]

Oh, I've done all that, in fact, more than once, in more than one wagon. It's the very cold weather, not the installation, it's very clean and well lubed with proper lube. Dang thing is just old.

Sounds like you've done as much as me. But I'm still amazed how easy mine goes up an down - Any chance you could get another turn on the counterbalance spring. Of course as cold as I've seen it is about 20*F. Where are you and how cold?