Fuel gauge/cold start help needed please

[danzo]

I have a strange problem with my fuel gauge that I couldn't resolve with the FSM. It reads very full ALL the time. I took out the sending unit, but it still read full. I moved the needle to empty by hand and it came back to full. This is with a half full (half empty?) tank.

I took a sending unit resistance reading - 2340 Ohms when empty and 2250 when full. Is this normal? Seems too narrow to me. The FSM doesn't specify. I'm just trying to figure out if I need a new gauge or a new sender, which leads me to my next question - where does everyone get dealer only parts cheap? I know peeps who have sources for alot of the other makes.

Also, my car takes a long time to start when cold. Warm starts are fine. I have a fixit manual en route but these things are driving me bananas in the meantime.

Thanks for any help,

Danny

[ARCHINSTL]

I can't help with the problem - sorry - I've not had that one - yet...
As far as OE parts, my recommendation is Butler Toy in Indianapolis. The site is http://www.toyotaoemparts.com. For the "Year" menu, we are "Classic Vehicles..." The 800 number is there as well. Ask for Kyle or Mark, and mention the Club and/or "Tom in STL" - not that it'll get you a discount, but I've spent some coin with them on my "classic vehicle." There are a bunch of Toy dealers in STL, of course, but these guys can find anything, even if it is not in the dropdown menu on their site. If you go over $200 for a bunch of parts, the shipping was free (as of last year, anyway).

Incidentally, AutoZone shows a sending unit - for a 2WD - dunno the difference, but sometimes the brick-and-mortar stores can get something the online source cannot. Rock Auto, Advance, and NAPA do not show the part for either drive type.

We do have the FSM available for perusal/download on the front page; better than Chilton, etc. Also, the AutoZone site has an XLNT guide (sometimes better than the Toy FSM!); it is http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm - check out the dropdown at the right.

Here is an XLNT link to repair of the unit - and waynehoc added photos(!): http://www.tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtop ... nit#p18541
Tom M.

[Neu]

I can't help with the problem - sorry - I've not had that one - yet...
Incidentally, AutoZone shows a sending unit - for a 2WD - dunno the difference, but sometimes the brick-and-mortar stores can get something the online source cannot. Advance and NAPA do not show the part for either drive type.
Tom M.

We discovered some of the 2wd models have 11 something gallon tanks, so that may not be a good idea.

Also, you need to replace the sending unit along with the float, most likely.

The cold start thing, i'm not sure, but here's my starting procedure.

1. Get in car
2. turn key to "on" but not crank. wait up to 10 seconds. Usually 5 seconds is more then enough.
3. Pump the fuel twice, all the way to the floor. A SLIGHT pause in between.
4. Crank engine, while holding the 1/4 to 1/2 of the way down. Your car will tell you.

It can take a few cranks.

[takza]

Also, my car takes a long time to start when cold. Warm starts are fine. I have a fixit manual en route but these things are driving me bananas in the meantime.

Thanks for any help,

Danny

Mine has done the same thing...seems the fuel in the bowl goes somewhere and I need to pump it a lot to prime it again after sitting a few days. In your case it could be the choke...you need to take the air cleaner off and then try to set the choke to see if it is closing...if not some carb cleaner on the shaft...followed by some light oil should help.

[danzo]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll give the Indy Boyz a call when I need parts. I also didn't realize Autozone had such detailed info on their site, good to know.

I did some more looking at my fuel gauge problem but I'm still confused. I removed the sender again, cleaned it, and took an Ohm reading this time using the correct pins. It read 110 Ohms empty and 6 when full, well within spec. The gauge still reads full even after pushing the needle down just as before. So I guess my gauge is faulty? I'll check it next and let you know what happens.

Maybe I'm a little too concerned about the gauge, but I'd hate to use the ol "stick in the tank" method like those Model A dudes do. I suppose it's the same story for the Model T's.

[Neu]

Just replace the gauge, goto a junkyard and grab another car's gauge.

[danzo]

I wish I could just waltz into the nearest Pick 'n' Yank and smurf myself a new feul gauge, but here in the south these cars are just not very common. In fact, one of the reasons I got this car was because I had not seen one in a few years. In the circa 6000 j-yards closest to my domicile there are exactly 2 terc wagons - both 2wd, one an automatic, neither with the gauge I need. But I'll click this sucker at some point.

D

[Neu]

That really sucks. Maybe someone on the forums can go nab one for you? Mail it to you. Shouldn't be too big, maybe the size of a wallet, only a lil thicker.

[Petros]

I have a whole SR5 instrument cluster I would consider selling. It all works and has the factory tach. I drove it for several years before I got a car with a better body (w/no engine or tranny) and parted that car out. I saved a lot of the parts, including the instrument cluster. If you can find a local gauge let me know. Make sure it is the gauge that is not working before you replace it.

Test your wiring to make sure it is not grounded somewhere. A grounded wire will show a full tank. It is possible that the wire between the sender the gauge got scuffed or worn through the insulation and it now is grounded. Check with a volt-olm meter and long jumper wire. Also check all the connectors in the wire system with the fuel gauge on it for corrosion or other issues. Clean them with a tooth brush, steel wool, blow them out and spray will LPS1. Than see if the gauge is still not working.

[danzo]

Thanks for the tips/offer Petros, I should have thought to trace the wiring after owning a British car way back when. After the temperature here gets above freezing I'll check it out and let you know if I need a new gauge.