Help re: broken Steering wheel cover/light switch

[AlbertaBeef]

So, as I mentioned earlier, I picked up this Tercel the other day... and have been steadily putting it together again... (when I bought it, the steering wheel, combo switch, panels, etc., where completely dis-assembled... I simply bolted the steering assembly in place, and the steering wheel on to drive it home.)

Here's what I've found so far...

When the chap who previously owned it TRIED working on it... instead of sliding the steering wheel cover off properly, he instead used what I call the "more force" method... and thus snapped off the tabs/clips that hold it in place. So I've had to tape the cover on the wheel... Argh.

Anybody know if those cheap ebay steering wheel/toyota hub adapters fits our Tercel 4wd's ok? I might change it to one of those instead of having it taped in place. Duct tape just isn't fashionable =)

Also... although he told me he had all the parts/screws/etc. that he removed... it turns out this isn't quite correct. On the light switch, there's a spring and a ball that need to be in place so you can properly switch from high to low beam... BOTH the spring and ball are missing...

Missing screws I can deal with... but I have NO idea what to use to replace that spring and ball assembly.

As it is, it rests in high beam mode all the time... which isn't acceptable. Trying to move it to low beam isn't easy, because every bump, turn of wheel, etc., makes it jump back to high beam and back and forth... looks like I'm flashing my lights at people at night.

Any suggestions on what I can use to replace the spring/ball? Or do I need to hit up a junkyard and find the parts??

Thanks all,

[Neu]

I'd hit up a junkyard. You can use some at home assembly to get it working but it most likely wouldn't last long.

Just take it from a junkyard tercel and you'll know it's good.

[Petros]

You can always tape it in the low beam position, and if you need the highs unstick it. This would also match, and help finish off your custom "duct tape" interior style. A few turns of tape around the shift knob to complete that look, and your good!

I would go junk yard for a permanent fix for a replacement part., there might even be other models like same year corollals that use the same switch you can look at. Also, you might see if you can glue the panels into place with caulk or polyurethane adhesife when you want to replace the duct tape.

[AlbertaBeef]

OK, so the steering wheel cover is all fan-ghetto-tastic now... secured by tape. =)

For the high/low beam switch, I put a small washer in under the metal piece that holds the switch arm in place... just below the metal fastener and above the switch arm. This makes it so the switch stays in low-beam, and although it can't be LOCKED in high beam atm, it can at least 'flash' the high beams for when I really need it.

That'll do me for the time being until I can get some parts from the wreckers.

Also of note... I picked up some decent 5w30 synthetic oil, filter, etc., etc., and was about to pick up some gear lube... but Walmart wanted $12.98 for a liter of 75w90 synthetic... isn't that a little pricey? Anyone know of a better deal for gear lube up here in Canada??

[takza]

* as far as the cover...you could use silicone caulk to glue it together and tape to hold it there till dry...still able to take it apart later

* I think the best bet for the transaxle is to just use a good quality gear oil as specified and change it out each year. You can do this for $12 or so...use the air pressure jug thing to do it

[Petros]

That is a good price for synthetic gear lube. I paid $14.95 a quart, I did not know Wal-Mart sold it. It is not cheap. But mulit-vis gear lube might be better, or a half and half mixture of standard gear lube and synthetic.

The synthetic is so slippery that it impedes the syncro-mesh function and if you hurry a shift you get a slight gear clash. I have experienced it and so have others using pure synthetic gear lube in the trans. The 50/50 mix should solve this, save you money and still give the trans the advantage of the high film strength synthetic lube to minimize wear.

[SynthDesign]

The synthetic is so slippery that it impedes the syncro-mesh function and if you hurry a shift you get a slight gear clash. I have experienced it and so have others using pure synthetic gear lube in the trans. The 50/50 mix should solve this, save you money and still give the trans the advantage of the high film strength synthetic lube to minimize wear.

I've had horrible luck running synthetic trans oil in all my toyotas (redline and royal purple both tried). Issues with messing especially going into reverse(clunk noises). A 50/50 blend huh. How do you know that the trani oil will blend instead of milking( getting frothy and changing mixxed colors)? I've been using Valvoline with a Lucas additive that is guaranteed to blend. I also have a few regular leaks so I'm forced to relube every few months and this has been a very cheep alternative so far....
Your thoughts Petros.


Also AlbertaBeef,
I have a complete steering column assembly w/ intermediate wipers( all blue off an 87 sr5). If you can't find one I'd be will to sell and ship it up to you.

[Petros]

Most of the syth motor oils are actually blends, oil will always blend with oil. In fact many are even blending their own motor oil too, it is less expensive to blend your own motor oil than to buy blended synthetic. It should work the same for gear lube. Mix your own oil is some something done regularly if you can not find the properties you want. Since I do not know of any synth blend gear oil, than doing it yourself will get what we need for this old trans design.

Milking occurs when you get water in it, water does not mix with oil. I suspect the detergent quality of the oil keeps the water in suspension.

This reminds me, I had fairly new oil in my engine when I blew another head gasket a while back. All the new oil was like chocolate milk. I changed it again after I replaced the head gasket. But I saved it and was thinking that there might be a way of recovering it. Even looking like milk, it still feels slippery and clean. ISTM that putting small amounts in with the good oil will allow me to use it up, my theory is when it heats up the moisture will be driven out of it, and I get all my good oil back.

Any thoughts on this?

[ARCHINSTL]

As to home refining - would putting it on a hot plate (outside) and just cooking away the moisture do it?
OK to laugh now...
Tom M.

[keith]

As to home refining - would putting it on a hot plate (outside) and just cooking away the moisture do it?
OK to laugh now...
Tom M.

You have to heat to about 130°C and pull a vacuum of about 20 torr.

[AlbertaBeef]

Also AlbertaBeef,
I have a complete steering column assembly w/ intermediate wipers( all blue off an 87 sr5). If you can't find one I'd be will to sell and ship it up to you.

going to head to the pick 'n pull tomorrow and see what they have. Rumour has it there are two tercels there, though not sure what I can get off them.

If I can't get what I need, I may take you up on that, thanks!

[SynthDesign]

Milking occurs when you get water in it, water does not mix with oil. I suspect the detergent quality of the oil keeps the water in suspension.

Ahhhh . Didn't seem like there was water in it. Happened during dry conditions during the summer over a two month period. I wonder how I could of gotten water in the trani. I figured that the detergent based Valvoline and Royal purple didn't blend right. And it did look about like strawberry milk but the smell was horrible.

[Petros]

Perhaps it was burnt, from overheating. that would cause smell. And moisture can accumulate from condensation if it sits around without driving it for months at a time. Or it could leak in from the boot if it is bad. It was not likely something you did.

I have never heard of milking caused by mixing two different oils, there must have been some kind of moisture contamination.