Hi! to all.. and how do I hotwire this thing?? =)

AlbertaBeef · Post by **AlbertaBeef** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 6:28 pm

Hi all, I'm new to the forum... but not to Tercel's...

I've just purchased a 1983 Tercel 4wd with a busted key cylinder... it should start if I can figure out how to hot wire it and get it home... (the car is 100km from my house... and I don't want to pay to tow it if I don't have to)

basically, I'm looking at the diagram on BE-9 of the service manual... but not having any electrical knowledge, I'm kinda stumped as to what to do...

Eventually, I'll likely end up doing a (hidden) switch for the ignition and one momentary switch to start it... but in the meantime... what do I do with the various wires to get this turned on and started so I can drive home? (btw, constantly wiggling/finessing the key doesn't turn it... ever...) I'm assuming I'll need to splice some wires together... but not sure... could someone give me a quick (and idiot-proof) 'how-to' on this?

Thanks all!

AlbertaBeef · Post by **AlbertaBeef** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:35 pm

OK, looks like if i simply connect 1 (AM) and 6 (IG) I'll have ignition turned on.... then I just need to momentarily add 4 (ST) to power (1-AM) to start it... I can then add 3 (ACC) to power (1-AM) in order to get electrical things back on...

OH, and yes I know to disconnect 1/6 to turn ignition off when it's not running... rather than burn things out. I managed to search and find that much...

Is that about right???

Post by **Petros** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:57 pm

You still have to unlock the steering wheel to drive it. The best way to both unlock the steering wheel and get it to start is is not to mess with the wiring, but to either force the lock to turn, or force the cylinder out and use a flat screw driver to turn the ignition.

There was a recent thread on this topic (but I can not find it right now, so do a search). First see if putting the key in it, after spaying in the lock with penetrating oil, and carefully wiggling the key to get it so turn (it takes gentle pressure to get everything to line up). The tumblers get fatigued and they brake off in the lock not allowing it to turn, I had this problem with my '83. If you get it to turn, remove the plastic column cover and push in the pin or button that holds the cylinder, (it can only be pushed in when the lock cylinder is fully turned) and pull out the lock cylinder. Then you can remove all of the tumblers, and replace the cylinder. You can still use the key, or any key that will fit, to turn the cylinder, it becomes a "decoy" lock.

If you can not get it to turn with the key, remove the cylinder by removing the plastic column cover, drill out the push button that holds the lock cylinder in the housing, and then force the cylinder out. you may need a slide hammer or a screw driver to dig out the cylinder, or even drill it out. Be careful not to damage the housing, you can replace the cylinder without having to dismantle the housing and steering column.

Good luck.

AlbertaBeef · Post by **AlbertaBeef** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 9:27 pm

Petros wrote:You still have to unlock the steering wheel to drive it. The best way to both unlock the steering wheel and get it to start is is not to mess with the wiring, but to either force the lock to turn, or force the cylinder out and use a flat screw driver to turn the ignition.

There was a recent thread on this topic (but I can not find it right now, so do a search). First see if putting the key in it, after spaying in the lock with penetrating oil, and carefully wiggling the key to get it so turn (it takes gentle pressure to get everything to line up). The tumblers get fatigued and they brake off in the lock not allowing it to turn, I had this problem with my '83.

If you get it to turn, remove the plastic column cover and push in the pin or button that holds the cylinder, (it can only be pushed in when the lock cylinder is fully turned) and pull out the lock cylinder. Then you can remove all of the tumblers, and replace the cylinder. You can still use the key, or any key that will fit, to turn the cylinder, it becomes a "decoy" lock.

yeah, I tried the 'gentle pressure' with as much finesse as I could... used penetrating oil and graphite after that... it's really not wanting to turn... I almost said to heck with it and brute forced it with a large screwdriver... figured it's already broken, what the heck... but didn't do that... (yet...)

Petros wrote:If you can not get it to turn with the key, remove the cylinder by removing the plastic column cover, drill out the push button that holds the lock cylinder in the housing, and then force the cylinder out. you may need a slide hammer or a screw driver to dig out the cylinder, or even drill it out. Be careful not to damage the housing, you can replace the cylinder without having to dismantle the housing and steering column.

Good luck.

Will do my best on it. doing this in about 12 hours from now... will let you know how it goes. Might take my camera and take pics, enough people have had similar problems that pics of everything may help someone else...

AlbertaBeef · Post by **AlbertaBeef** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:53 pm

OK, I got it ripped apart, drilled out the pin, removed the key cylinder and was able to get it started just by turning the ignition switch... (plus a boost... dead battery as the car sat for 4 months...)

drove it home... Engine seems fine, it went up hills around here without any problems or even slowing down much... Had to third-gear it at one particularly steep incline to keep it over 80, but otherwise strong.

The problem is... when I got it home, I put it in 4wd for testing purposes. Parked it, and now I can't shift it OUT of 4wd back to Fwd...

Any ideas what the problem may be???

AlbertaBeef · Post by **AlbertaBeef** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:08 pm

W00t... figured it out.

Turns out if you do a well-worded forum search, the answer will reveal itself:

http://www.tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtop ... +shift+4wd

Went forward, got going about 20km/h in first, and voila! I could move it back to Fwd =)

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 5:12 am

Your 4WD system was bound up with tension. NEVER a good idea to stress these high mileage cars by getting the drive train bound up. Best to only use the 4WD on slippery surfaces when really needed?

And change that gear oil! Gheeeeez....

AlbertaBeef · Post by **AlbertaBeef** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 5:54 am

takza wrote:Your 4WD system was bound up with tension. NEVER a good idea to stress these high mileage cars by getting the drive train bound up. Best to only use the 4WD on slippery surfaces when really needed?

And change that gear oil! Gheeeeez....

yeah, I see that now, lol. Had it in 4wd in the alley (gravel) behind the house... didn't change it before parking in front of the house. 100' of dry asphalt was all it took to bind it. ouch. I'll watch that in future.

And yeah, I've got LOTS of fluids to change... needs an oil change too... amazingly, this old beast has 445K on it. (Km, not miles). very high mileage indeed. but the engine was all rebuilt just year. really clean bay, no oil leaking or burning... nice...

Just need to clean up some rust, etc. to have it all purty...

Tercel4WD.com

Hi! to all.. and how do I hotwire this thing?? =)

Hi! to all.. and how do I hotwire this thing?? =)

Re: Hi! to all.. and how do I hotwire this thing?? =)

Re: Hi! to all.. and how do I hotwire this thing?? =)

Re: Hi! to all.. and how do I hotwire this thing?? =)

Stuck in 4wd??

Re: Hi! to all.. and how do I hotwire this thing?? =)

Re: Hi! to all.. and how do I hotwire this thing?? =)

Re: Hi! to all.. and how do I hotwire this thing?? =)