Just swapped my 3a-c for a 3a, won't start.

[gervin]

Got the new radiator in the from local junkyard. They only charged me $20 and it's working great.

I have 2 questions for you guys now. Is the fan supposed to always stay on? Because thats what mine is doing. And second, What would cause the E-brake light to stay on?

**EDIT** Just took it for another short drive. Heater is working good but the car started to over-heat. I checked the engine bay and I don't seem to be losing coolant anywhere. Should I try replacing the water pump or thermostat? Thanks for all your help!**EDIT**

[ARCHINSTL]

There is a section in the FSM on testing the fan switch - also check out the AutoZone info site. The fan is only supposed to be on when needed.
Anything binding in the E-brake cables? Something jammed in around the switch at the lever? The alternator light is not staying on at the same time? If the latter, do a Search here for same - possible/probable alternator probs.
How old is the thermostat? Did you flush the new-used radiator?
Tom M.

[gervin]

The autozone info is helpful and I will let you know what I find out when I test the switch.

I will check to see if I somehow jammed some e-brake cable when swapping engines. And no the alternator light is not on.

I have no clue how old the thermostat is. I have another one on my old engine that I might as well hook up and see if that changes anything. And yes I flushed the new-used radiator and the flow seemed to be just fine on it.

[takza]

The fan switch defaults to RUN if the wiring is messed up or the switch goes bad. A new thermostat would be worth putting in...I wouldn't mess with a used one. There is a switch under the e-brake handle?

[Neu]

That sucks about the radiator, but good job!

[gervin]

The fan switch defaults to RUN if the wiring is messed up or the switch goes bad. A new thermostat would be worth putting in...I wouldn't mess with a used one. There is a switch under the e-brake handle?

Thanks for the info on the fan. I thought that might be the default when something was wrong. And yes I agree that a new thermostat would we worth putting in. I'm sure it's only like $10.

Thanks NEU for the compliment and thanks everyone. This is my new favorite site!

[Neu]

The fan switch defaults to RUN if the wiring is messed up or the switch goes bad. A new thermostat would be worth putting in...I wouldn't mess with a used one. There is a switch under the e-brake handle?

Thanks for the info on the fan. I thought that might be the default when something was wrong. And yes I agree that a new thermostat would we worth putting in. I'm sure it's only like $10.

Thanks NEU for the compliment and thanks everyone. This is my new favorite site!

better be your new favorite site.

[gervin]

So the fan switch needs to be replaced. I will do that asap.

I replaced the thermostat, filled it up with coolant, let it idle for about 15 minutes and it started to over heat while it was idling. I let it cool down for about 30 minutes then decided to start it up again to see if it would start to over heat again. It didn't so I tried taking it for a short drive. During the drive I noticed the engine would not even heat up at all, the gauge didn't move and the heater didn't work. I have my work cut out for me

[Neu]

Thermostat isn't working.

Fan switch is easy, you can actually just unplug it until you can get a new one. It'll default to on when you unplug it.

[gervin]

Got the thermostat to work and determined that I for sure need a new fan switch.

I am going to need to drain the coolant to install the new switch? I'm guessing that I am.

[Petros]

Are you losing any coolant? Are there any clouds of white smoke out the exhaust? This could be steam if the head gasket is leaking water. It might still run fine as long as there is water in it, but if you are losing water fast enough to cause overheating in only 15 min, you will see a lot of steam (white smoke) coming out of the exhaust pipe, and smell the anti-freeze in the exhaust.

You will not get heat out of the heater if there is air trapped in it, or if there no water in the cooling system. Even with a thermostat failed in the open position (or with no thermostat) you will still get lukewarm air from the heater.

Also, you might be trapping air in the block/heater core. This can be bled out by filling both the block and the heater core from the hoses. Or by running it until the t-stat opens, and allow it to cool enough so you can take the cap off and top it up, repeat several times until you get all the air out of the system.

[gervin]

Are you losing any coolant? Are there any clouds of white smoke out the exhaust? This could be steam if the head gasket is leaking water. It might still run fine as long as there is water in it, but if you are losing water fast enough to cause overheating in only 15 min, you will see a lot of steam (white smoke) coming out of the exhaust pipe, and smell the anti-freeze in the exhaust.

You will not get heat out of the heater if there is air trapped in it, or if there no water in the cooling system. Even with a thermostat failed in the open position (or with no thermostat) you will still get lukewarm air from the heater.

Also, you might be trapping air in the block/heater core. This can be bled out by filling both the block and the heater core from the hoses. Or by running it until the t-stat opens, and allow it to cool enough so you can take the cap off and top it up, repeat several times until you get all the air out of the system.

Luckily there is no white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I just had the new thermostat installed wrong. It's good now, and it's blowing out hot air.

The fan switch just needs replacing and I should be all good.