Can someone write up rear brake shoe step by step?

[Neu]

I kind of need one, I've changed out my rear cylinder/piston, but my rear brake shoes are so worn down that my brakes are still crap, and I'm worried i'm going to blow one of the cylinder/pistons again.

Anyway, I need to change the shoes, can someone give me a good step by step? The FSM doesn't do a very good job.

[Petros]

This is not so difficult, but having the right brake tools helps a lot. First make a good detailed inspection of how everything is connected, it is easy to forget how it goes back on, even make a sketch or take a picture.

Remove the springs and clips, this is where the brake pliers with the hooked ends help, you can sometimes use a screw driver to lever them off, or some good grip pliers like channel locks. One of the most troublesome to me is the spring clips that hold the shoes up against the backer plate, you have to put your hand behind the plat to hold the the pin in place, push in against the spring and rotate the keeper 90 deg so it can come off.

Remember to back the adjusters all the way down before putting everything back. And push the wheel cyl. piston all the way back in too. Put it all back the way it came off, and then center the shoes on the backer plate, make sure you have all the clips and keepers installed (look for left over parts!), and then install the drum.

You then should adjust the shoes back out until they just barely rub the drum. The adjustment is done through the backer plate with a screw driver usually. After that the self adjuster should keep it correct, but you still have to do the initial adjustment by hand.

Good luck.

[ARCHINSTL]

And don't forget to lube the full length of the e-brake cables while you are at it.
Get the whole spring kit - it is NOT expensive.
While you did not mention it, I presume you are getting the drums resurfaced? Again, not expensive, but necessary.
Use a lot of the specific hi-temp grease on all parts, including the backing plates - you do get 'em wet, as I recall... The tube of hi-temp grease is not cheap, but it goes a long way.
As Petros mentioned, the springs are a PITA without the proper tools; but it can be done using pliers and screwdrivers - that is how I did it (but bought the right tools when it came time to do the Dodge/Mitsu truck - I'd had it!).

Check out the AutoZone site; it has photos, which are helpful. http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repair ... 528005242d. There is a drop-down menu for each brake component.
NOTE, however - the photos are for the sedans, which use a different spring system. Nevertheless, it IS helpful.
Tom M.

[Petros]

Good points, but I have issues with routinely resurfacing the drums or disks. These Tercel brakes are so light that you only get one resurfacing out of them before they are out of tolerance. If the drum surface is in good shape, it is not warped or scored, I would just use them the way they are. If they need resurfacing than do it, it only cost about $12-15 each. But resurfaced once, they are pretty much done because they are so light. Once resurfaced I suspect they are also more prone to warping (which is a problem anyway). Fortunately replacing them is not too costly either, about $25 each as I recall.

I have the same issue with the front disks too, they are only 0.41 in thick! and very easy to warp on long down hill runs (I have done it several times). I am going to replace them with Paseo vented disks and calipers when I do my front brakes soon.

Also, be careful with the high temp grease, use the minimal amount you need. You do not want to get it on the brake surface or drums, and any excess could end up there. It also attracts grit and dust.

[Highlander]

Also watch the orientation of the spring that runs past the adjuster. The long leg should be by the adjuster itself, and be sure to put that spring in from the backing plate side, or it'll keep the adjuster from doing its job. As Petros said, when you use the grease, just a light smear is best provided you've cleaned it all. I've NEVER had to resurface a Terc drum yet, I clean them with brake cleaner (good solid wipe while wet), scuff up the surface perpendicular to the rotation with red scotchbrite (or use a circular motion and move around the drum) and then clean it again with brake cleaner. Don't forget the little conical spring under the adjuster (I did ) luckily I figured out it was weird before lowering the car.

[ARCHINSTL]

Also watch the orientation of the spring that runs past the adjuster. The long leg should be by the adjuster itself, and be sure to put that spring in from the backing plate side, or it'll keep the adjuster from doing its job.

Are you saying that the installation of the spring in my pix is incorrect? Or am I misreading your note? This is how the FSM shows it.
Tom M.

This was a caliper improvisation tip I did back in 2006, but never thought it important enough to post.

[Neu]

yeh,i dont have the right tools at all....gah

[takza]

Only do one side at a time so you have one for reference. I use pointed vise grips to remove springs. Needle nose pliers for the shoe hold down thingys.

[Highlander]

Tom- That brake setup doesn't look at all familiar .HOLY CR** , Disregard what I said! I just realized that I was remembering the last set of brakes I did -the GMC Van OK I'll just shut up now I guess this is what happens when you have nine vehicles, and you pass 50, you can't keep them straight anymore!
Tom, this is the second time you've caught me doing this, so I'm just going to keep my mouth shut OK?

[ARCHINSTL]

and you pass 50, you can't keep them straight anymore!

Hey - it's because you've been sniffin' too much of that Lucas smoke coming out of the Spiritti's wiring!
NOT because of passin' 50! 'Member MY age!
Tom M.

[keith]

Very important tip, do only one side at a time. If you forget how something goes, the other side becomes your template. A digital camera also helps when you enter uncharted territory. Keep a record of how it was.

Get new drums, don't resurface. Resurfacing only aggravates the problem with the wheel cylinder expanding.

[skyerunner]

Resurrecting an old thread, but I'm about to embark on this. I'm needing to fix my lack of friction problems and figured I'd start with the rear instead of jumping into the Petros brake upgrade quite yet. Two questions:
First, should I resurface/replace the drums just because I'm doing the work, or only if I see wear?
Second, are there any brands of brake shoes that you would consistently recommend?
Thanks!
JB

[Petros]

if your drums are not out of round, and not scored or grooved, I would just reuse them the way they are. You get only one resurfacing from them because they are so light, than you have to replace them. Check max dia. to see if they had been resurfaced before, many brake shops do this routinely even if they do not need it. Fortunately they only cost about $25 each to replace the last I checked.

[Highlander]

Welcome back, Skye! I've never had warped or out of round drums on a T4WD, the rears just don't get that much abuse, so I just scuff them up with some burgundy colored scotchbrite (I use a circular pattern as I go around the drum) to break any glaze. I stop when I have a good non-directional pattern on the drum (~ 5-10 minutes if they are really bad).
The shoes available from Broadway Automotive (On E. Arapahoe in Boulder 303-444-8911) do fine, ask for Pete, he'll get you the right part the first time (DON"T let Dan find you the parts ). HINT- call first, if they don't have them they'll get them in from Denver within 24 hours. Have Fun!!

[tercel4wdrules]

I have Raybestos brake shoes in one of my cars and they've been working well for the past 37k miles. I had the rear drums resurfaced once to correct some slight warping before I had those brake shoes installed several years ago. I was planning to replace them, but haven't gotten around to it.