First post, heavy vibration

[SR5 Tercelerator]

So I just got a 83 sr5 tercel to use as a recreational/camping/burning man/biking car.

Problem is, it feels like it will fall apart starting at 45 and beginning to smooth out (some) at about 65. Vibration is strongest with the power on, pretty much goes away in neutral or with the clutch in. It is a big loud vibration. Definitely not wheel balance issues. The tranny shop I took it to says the tranny feels good...but they want to start charging me to look further.

So what is in the driveline that is moving with the car not in 4wd and not linked to the front wheels (Don't feel the vibration through the wheel). And how do i tell if it is good?



Thanks in advance for your help. I'm in Eugene OR. if anyone else is.

edit-this should probably be in the repair section. sorry.

[Neu]

I'll go ahead and move the post.

Hey Oregon Buddy!!

So there's something super easy you can do the figure this out.

What pedals/what do you feel it with? Does the entire car shake? Do you feel it in the clutch, brake, or gas pedals? Do you feel it through the stick?

Most of the time, if it's not too terrible you can feel it through whatever control is linked to the vibration.

I'd go and get the tires balanced, Les Schwab's should do it for free. Even if you didn't buy the tires there, tell them you did.

Your driveline could also have something caught on it, I had a nice klump of dirt/weeds for a while that caused a really random vibration.

[SR5 Tercelerator]

Hey thanks,

Yeah I only feel it through the stick particularly, but the whole car shakes. I've been to schwabbies already too. I was under the car today and nothing looks too out of place. One question, does the whole driveline between the rear diff and the tranny spin when the car is in fwd?

[keith]

The whole drive-line turns when the car is in motion. Its just the connection between the input and output of the 4wd transfer case that is disconnected in FWD.

The vibration could be a lot of things but for your sake, I hope its the U-joints in the driveshaft that are bad. They are relatively cheap and easy to replace and they make the sounds and vibrations you describe.

[ARCHINSTL]

The U-joints in the driveshaft can be replaced?
I was under the impression that they could not; it was sort of "one-piece." Not a good description, I know - but that they were not replaceable separately and the whole (rear) driveshaft would have to be replaced with the joints..
Tom M.

[splatterdog]

Like many other jap drive shafts, the joints are "staked" in place. Typically, only a qualified driveline shop can do the machining necessary to fit aftermarket u-joints. Try to find replacement u-joints for a terc and see. The only real way to tell if you have a bad joint,if it's not obvious, is to pull the shaft and flex each joint checking for looseness or sticking. Spin the hanger bearing too.

Is the noise/vibration worse while turning? CV shafts can be a sore spot on these cars. Pulling hard thru a cloverleaf can be a good test.

[SR5 Tercelerator]

Well the CV shafts look great...new boots, no play. There definitely seems to be some slop in the hanger bearing. I'll pull the driveline and see what is up.

I took it rodding in the yard yesterday and something shook loose...now the engine wants to die and has no power. I'll check that out too...

[SR5 Tercelerator]

Back from the garage...
Pulled the driveline, definitely the u joint at the tranny is stiff. Didn't expect the gear oil to start pouring out though...Driveline is a junkyard part right?

Thanks everyone.

[Petros]

Your descriptin sounds like either front CV joints or driveshaft U-joints.

U-joints are typically about $30. You can take the drive shaft to a NAPA store with a machine shop and they might charge you about $20 to press the old ones out and install the new ones for you. You can do this your self with a small sledge hammer and some blocks of wood and perhaps some soft aluminum or brass dowels to drive the old one out and install the new one (I have done it). If you choose to do it yourself be very careful you do not bend or damage the yoke or drive shaft.

You can check the condition of the U-joint without removing it by jacking up one tire, with the trans in neutral, so you can freely turn the drive shaft. Then grip the drive shaft on either side of the joint and move them back and forth opposite directions from each other and observe or feel the movement in the U-joint. There should be no movement between the cross-T and the bearings or yoke of the driveshaft, if there is it must be replaced. If it is bad enough to vibrate you can easily see the movement when some tire that is jacked up back and fourth. The most common one to fail is the rear one (it has the most angle on it), the center next, and it is rare but the one at the trans fails least common. I do not think if the front one is "frozen" it would cause bad vibrations.

If you can find a good drivesaft assembly at a self service wrecking yard (Pull-A-Part, etc.) you would not have to replace the u-joints and you likely would only pay about $20 for it.

It is normal for the center drive shaft mount to move, it is mounted on rubber mounts. It has been my experience even with the rubber mounts really worn and loose there is little noticeable difference in how it drives.

Good luck with it.

[splatterdog]

While it sounds like you ID'd a bad u joint, I think your problem lies elsewhere. Since it's worse "with the power on" it does eliminate the rear to some extent. No load in fwd. CV's can be bad without a failed boot. The throbber on my 86 showed no obvious signs and didn't act up unless turning or on a good bump at highway speed when the suspension was near upper or lower limits.

Unless the rear shafts front joint runs at a perfect 0 degrees, a stuck u joint will vibrate. "power on" in 4WD would greatly exaggerate it. If it's just sticky, I would concentrate your attention elsewhere for now.

Only a qualified driveline shop can touch the rear shaft u joints. They are designed to not be serviceable. Go ahead and try to find u-joints. I gave up after trying 4 different suppliers. They are designed to last the "typical" life of a car. I remember most all the 80's B2000 pickups were never worth a replacement shaft by the time the joints were shot. The yokes had to be machined to accomodate a readily available joint with caps that are retained by spring clips. On the bright side, they are user serviceable after this procedure.

[SR5 Tercelerator]

The reason I've ruled out the cv joints for now is that the one place the vibration doesn't seem to be coming from is the steering wheel. Also, there is no change when cornering...it only happens from 45 on up...consistently and on smooth straight roads. Hopefully the new junkyard driveline I am picking up today will fix it. If not I think i will be looking at the rear differential/axle assembly. (Of course I will check the cv joints more thoroughly too. ) I'll let you all know the progress tonight.

[SR5 Tercelerator]

Well the new driveline fixed it! Thanks everyone...