Timing Marks

[Chuck]

OK in every PIC of the timing marks both on the web and in the FSM it shows a graduated series of marks representing 0 through 20 degrees +_

I fails the smog test and they said it was set at 16 degrees so I got me trusty timing light and looked - NO MARKS! just One cast in slash in the lower cover which I guess is to represent TDC

What's up this engine have a replacement cover ? When set to the "Mark" it runs but not as well as it did when at 16 BTDC

Every thing I have read shows it should be advanced to 10 degrees not the factory specified 5 ( at least after it passses smog) ( I hope)

Chuck

[schmooot]

I've never seen a cover with just the 0 mark. Have you tried getting a wire brush in there? sometimes the marks/numbers are pretty gunked up and only the big one shows because it is raised higher. I usually just time it by ear......set it at 0, then start the car and turn the dizzy until it idles nice and smooth....that should put you between 10 and 15 somewhere

[Chuck]

I've never seen a cover with just the 0 mark. Have you tried getting a wire brush in there? sometimes the marks/numbers are pretty gunked up and only the big one shows because it is raised higher. I usually just time it by ear......set it at 0, then start the car and turn the dizzy until it idles nice and smooth....that should put you between 10 and 15 somewhere

Thanks I'll look closer and you are right it ran much better with the "Dizzy" advanced . But IT has to be set at 5 Degrees for the smog gods.

Once past that hurdle I'll re set it.

on the last (failed) test I was a little high on HC and the timing was off 10 DEgrees.

I replaced the Plugs Air cleaner before the test BUt not wire and cap/rotor as I should have The Terk was running well got over 30MPG on the highway with average speeds over 70 ( On my trip home after purchas) so I figured ah... what the heck I'll see if it passes- NOT.

I'll keep you posted.

Chuck

[Neu]

Use some brake cleaner, spray it down there and scrubs it clean, the marks are there. I thought the same thing and was kinda pissed, who would replace atiming cover with no timing marks? but they were there.

[keith]

After you get it cleaned up and can see the marks, then get under the car and look for the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. Turn the engine as needed. Use some White Out or white touch up paint to make it good and visible.

Disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor, its easiest to do this at the filter which is the black thing just forward of the carburetor on the manifold. Plug the filter with something. Set it to 5° BTDC. Check your mechanical advance. If its not working, squirt some WD40 into the weep hole at the bottom of the distributor, it will oil and free up the weights.

With the vacuum line plugged back in, the timing should be 13° BTDC. If its not, then you have a leaking vacuum advance. You should get by smog with this and get good enough performance that you will not need to go to 10° BTDC.

[Chuck]

After you get it cleaned up and can see the marks, then get under the car and look for the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. Turn the engine as needed. Use some White Out or white touch up paint to make it good and visible.

Disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor, its easiest to do this at the filter which is the black thing just forward of the carburetor on the manifold. Plug the filter with something. Set it to 5° BTDC. Check your mechanical advance. If its not working, squirt some WD40 into the weep hole at the bottom of the distributor, it will oil and free up the weights.

With the vacuum line plugged back in, the timing should be 13° BTDC. If its not, then you have a leaking vacuum advance. You should get by smog with this and get good enough performance that you will not need to go to 10° BTDC.

OK I did the timing thing I pressure washed the spot and can clearly see the 5 degree mark/s now) while vac disconnected i reved the engine timing changed so I will figure the mechanical advance works but when I hooked up the vac again no change in timing so my dizzy needs work.
From what I have read it's almost easer to buy a rebuilt one rather than look for repair parts. Correct?

and a current source for the dizzy ? ( lots of posts show places from many years ago)

Thanks

Chuck

[ARCHINSTL]

Rock Auto @ $194: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
My Advance price of $185 from 2006 is now $227.
Tom M.

[Neu]

Junkyard..for sure. If anything it'll be a lot cheaper until you can save up for a good one.

Or pull one from a 4a? would that even make a difference?

[Chuck]

Sorry for the delay I did pick a Dizzy up at Pick N Pull 40 bucks but the vacume advance held Vacume as a note I had to go through about 10 seems there must be some kind of valuable element in the pick up all of them had been dissambled the wires cut ( making them unusable ) and put back together Maybe an employee trying to hide his theft some were reinstalled with the caps put back on! I can think of no other reason to steel that part ( after cutting it wires)

anayway I put it in timed the Terk new wires cap and rotor Presto Passed the smog test HC's just under leval at idle but passed.

Second pluss before combined MPG 25 after 30.4 WITH the ac on! dont get me wrong filling it up still hurts but not like the 124 Gallons my truck takes. - Like I can remember when I last filled that thing up !

Thanks for all the help